Order of off-road mods

hickersb

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I live in Colorado and want to start tackling some more challenging stuff. I wanted to get people's thoughts on what the essential protection would be. I already have tuffant steel wheels, Cooper AT3 E-range tires, and an IID tool to add a bit of lift. I carry a shovel, compressor, recovery strap & rings. Not trying to add unnecessary weight or burn a lot of cash on bling.

I'm thinking the order of adding stuff looks something like:

1. Compressor guard
2. Sliders
3. Front Skid Plate
4. Diff Plate
5. Fuel Tank plate.

Let me know if you'd do it differently...?

In case you're wondering how those side-steps do...

615-04e765e50fd299f3c24bc143f413882e.jpg
 
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avslash

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You can get into as much trouble in Colorado as you care to.

These trucks are height limited. In that regard, IMO it is imperative to protect the underside because strategy in many cases becomes to get a tire up on an obstacle and then drag the length of the truck over it.

If you want real deal stuff that will protect the compressor and underbody look at the sliders, gas tank plate and transfer case plate from Tactical Rovers. They are heavy, but they work. Mine have the scars to prove it. There is no free lunch. You want protection, you're going to add weight.

Your front end will tell you if your use case demands adding a TR or ARB front bumper. When you start banging the nose on obstacles, it's that time.

After the above, it's tire and wheel time.

From there, it is just a never ending death spiral of spending...
 

djkaosone

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Agreed that my priorities were to protect the underside, but I wanted to keep weight at a minimal. I went with ASFIR (aluminum) sump and gear skid, Terrafirma sliders, and Dark Crow Designs (steel) gas skid. Served me very well with lots of battle scars.

Once you get top heavy like I did, carrying a (feels like) 80 lb spare, 90 lbs rtt, and 84 lbs (2) 5 gal water tanks on top of a Frontrunner roof rack with lights (70 lbs) and shovel (3 lbs). Inside ceiling with tools, recovery gear, portable jump packs, fire extinguisher, and thats about another 100 lbs. Just saying it adds up and the top sways way more than you want.

In hind sight, if I'd do it all over I'd get heavier duty underbody protection to stabilize the truck. Even though weight would **** my mpgs.

I seriously need to redo my gear and balance it out. Maybe build that bed platform like @avslash.
 

mbw

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I had full tactical 4x4 armor which was great for tough stuff and dragging her belly over rocks, but it weighs so much. I ended up getting Voyager sliders that have a bolt on air compressor and tank skid and removing the rest. I have more clearance now without the t44 stuff. The voyager sliders sit higher up also. I just have to be more careful about my gas tank and such but the overall weight of the rig was becoming an issue. I am trying to stay under GVWR with a front ARB, rear t44 bumper and soon a long ranger 29 gallon aux fuel tank.
 

hickersb

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Thanks for the responses folks! I recently ordered a set of Voyager sliders. I was looking at the APT compressor guard and ASFIR tank guard. I will have to take a second look at the Voyager sliders -- I recall I had the choice of step or no step but didn't recall seeing a compressor option from them.
 

avslash

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Agreed that my priorities were to protect the underside, but I wanted to keep weight at a minimal. I went with ASFIR (aluminum) sump and gear skid, Terrafirma sliders, and Dark Crow Designs (steel) gas skid. Served me very well with lots of battle scars.

Once you get top heavy like I did, carrying a (feels like) 80 lb spare, 90 lbs rtt, and 84 lbs (2) 5 gal water tanks on top of a Frontrunner roof rack with lights (70 lbs) and shovel (3 lbs). Inside ceiling with tools, recovery gear, portable jump packs, fire extinguisher, and thats about another 100 lbs. Just saying it adds up and the top sways way more than you want.

In hind sight, if I'd do it all over I'd get heavier duty underbody protection to stabilize the truck. Even though weight would **** my mpgs.

I seriously need to redo my gear and balance it out. Maybe build that bed platform like @avslash.

You bring up a very good point about being top heavy.

I started out with spare on the roof, along with other associated gear. First time I ever got into some significant off camber stuff was a very puckering experience. I went back and started over with the goal being to get absolutely as much weight as possible down low. The only thing I carry on the rack now is 2 waffle boards and my awning. Fuel, fresh water, tools, recovery gear and luggage are all either in the truck, on the bumper, or lower, and a decent portion of that is offset by removing 3 of the seats. It made a huge difference in the stability of the rig.

I also agree about the weight, but it is what it is. The TR stuff is heavy and it kills mpg but it performs as intended. I toyed with the idea of replacing them with aluminum at one point, but after scouting around online for people's experiences with aluminum I decided to stand pat.
 

RobRover88

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G'Day Hickersb, I will highly recommend all the protection gear made by APT Offroad in Brisbane
Australia. I live 1000 miles south of their facility but drove up to have APT's owner Ben Woodgate
fit the rock sliders, transmission/transfer case plates & the compressor guard & air-tank guard. All
brilliantly designed & made. Everything fits perfectly. I suggest checking out the great YouTube videos
showing how to install all their gear. Very professional!! www.aptoffroad.com.au
BTW, I paid full price plus fitting. I'm happy to recommend a good reliable company to deal with .Ben
does a lot of business with U.S. buyers. I've not heard of any complaints.
My rig is now at the vehicle's maximum weight (3240 kgs.) I have a steel Opposite Lock bullbar with
large driving lights (not LED's), A kaymar steel rear bumper with single swing wheel carrier, A Brown
Davis 110 liter aux diesel tank & have a 40 liter Engel fridge always on board. With two of us aboard
& full fuel (193 lts./50.8 US gals.) plus all our touring gear we are actually over weight. BUT I still can
achieve 28.2 mpg (US) to 30.66 mpg (US) on a 1000 mile roadtrip on various terrains. I reckon that
is great for such a big, comfortable & highly capable offroader ( 2014 TDV6 3.0 lt. V6 Turbo diesel)
I replaced the OE alloys/Goodyear Wranglers with 18" Compomotive's & BFG A/T KO2's (265/60 X 18).
I bought it new & I'm now in my '70's. I'm keeping it forever!! - as long as I can keep driving I'll fix
anything that breaks. We cannot replace this brilliant beast with ANYTHING as good - except maybe
the overpriced G-Wagen.
 

doc5339

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I live in Colorado and want to start tackling some more challenging stuff. I wanted to get people's thoughts on what the essential protection would be. I already have tuffant steel wheels, Cooper AT3 E-range tires, and an IID tool to add a bit of lift. I carry a shovel, compressor, recovery strap & rings. Not trying to add unnecessary weight or burn a lot of cash on bling.

I'm thinking the order of adding stuff looks something like:

1. Compressor guard
2. Sliders
3. Front Skid Plate
4. Diff Plate
5. Fuel Tank plate.

Let me know if you'd do it differently...?

In case you're wondering how those side-steps do...

View attachment 22311
Some people (often focused on overlanding) only install E-Range tires.

I believe they really suck at mud/rock combinations especially and some other terrain as when you air-down, the sidewalls stay rigid and do not allow the tires to deform and grip around rocks and obstacles. Yes, the sidewalls are very tough and thick and great for super-heavy loads, but not so much for climbing tough stuff.

Air-down your E-Range tires to say 20 psi and observe the sidewalls and contact patch. Just my $0.02, I'm sure many will disagree.
 

hickersb

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G'Day Hickersb, I will highly recommend all the protection gear made by APT Offroad in Brisbane
Australia. I live 1000 miles south of their facility but drove up to have APT's owner Ben Woodgate
fit the rock sliders, transmission/transfer case plates & the compressor guard & air-tank guard. All
brilliantly designed & made. Everything fits perfectly. I suggest checking out the great YouTube videos
showing how to install all their gear. Very professional!! www.aptoffroad.com.au
BTW, I paid full price plus fitting. I'm happy to recommend a good reliable company to deal with .Ben
does a lot of business with U.S. buyers. I've not heard of any complaints.
My rig is now at the vehicle's maximum weight (3240 kgs.) I have a steel Opposite Lock bullbar with
large driving lights (not LED's), A kaymar steel rear bumper with single swing wheel carrier, A Brown
Davis 110 liter aux diesel tank & have a 40 liter Engel fridge always on board. With two of us aboard
& full fuel (193 lts./50.8 US gals.) plus all our touring gear we are actually over weight. BUT I still can
achieve 28.2 mpg (US) to 30.66 mpg (US) on a 1000 mile roadtrip on various terrains. I reckon that
is great for such a big, comfortable & highly capable offroader ( 2014 TDV6 3.0 lt. V6 Turbo diesel)
I replaced the OE alloys/Goodyear Wranglers with 18" Compomotive's & BFG A/T KO2's (265/60 X 18).
I bought it new & I'm now in my '70's. I'm keeping it forever!! - as long as I can keep driving I'll fix
anything that breaks. We cannot replace this brilliant beast with ANYTHING as good - except maybe
the overpriced G-Wagen.
Thanks, Rob. I will probably get the compressor guard from APT.
 

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