Rear Crossover (Heater Manifold) failure mode?

[Lgibson]

So, I have now managed to follow the orange coolant streaks forward from the driver’s side rear oxygen sensor harness all the way to the infamous rear crossover manifold, which is sticky but dry around the heater valve. Over the last 4 years we have added perhaps a pint of the orange coolant, just a few ounces at a time.
Has anyone experienced a catastrophic bursting of this rear manifold? Just trying to make a decision on what to drive next weekend. It does seem to be oozing a bit more now. I did order parts and a lifting bar today. That $60 lifting tool from Amazon that I saw a few months ago for $80 is now $100! Seems like Prime stuff costs more as well.

 

[Lgibson]

So, no catastrophic failures reported here and today we got further confirmation from a sixteen-year pro tech hired to our relatively new LR El Paso out of New Jersey. Tom had just finished an O2 sensor replacement on our 2015 LR4. Evidently the rear crossover leaks slowly, eventually forming coolant stalagtites. (We’re not there yet) It can split at the seams if overheated. He begged me not to try to do the job myself, citing challenges with intake removal, routing of harnesses/tubes, and difficulty in refilling without vacuum assist. So, we’ll drive it this weekend, just taking care to keep it topped up. The new manifold/rear crossover came FedEx today but the SO is begging me to take it to Tom. Think I will probably just take my time with it next month. Couldn’t be as difficult as my V10 TDI!

 

[jlglr4]

I think ol’ Tom is trying to scare you. There are some pretty detailed posts on it in the forum, so you can judge for yourself. It’s not that difficult, but I certainly don’t blame you or the SO for wanting to take it in for the repair.

But have them do the front pipe at the same time, even if it’s not leaking. Insist on it. The front pipe is the major liability - that’s the one that takes out engines. It should not cost hardly anything extra in labor. The two front tube parts are less than $100, and when you have the whole thing apart to do the rear it literally takes removing 3 extra screws to get that front pipe out. I’m sure they’ll charge you something, but it should be a very small additional labor charge.

 

[Justin Allen]

..and difficulty in refilling without vacuum assist. !

Being in the middle of a front/rear pipe replacement myself, I've seen people reference this a lot and I don't get it. Most folks who have completed the job successfully seem to have had zero trouble manually bleeding the system, but then others make it sound as if its a bear and takes hours. I haven't gotten to that step yet so I'll see for myself soon.

 

[16FujiDisco]

I think ol’ Tom is trying to scare you. There are some pretty detailed posts on it in the forum, so you can judge for yourself. It’s not that difficult, but I certainly don’t blame you or the SO for wanting to take it in for the repair.

But have them do the front pipe at the same time, even if it’s not leaking. Insist on it. The front pipe is the major liability - that’s the one that takes out engines. It should not cost hardly anything extra in labor. The two front tube parts are less than $100, and when you have the whole thing apart to do the rear it literally takes removing 3 extra screws to get that front pipe out. I’m sure they’ll charge you something, but it should be a very small additional labor charge.

+1

 

[jlglr4]

Being in the middle of a front/rear pipe replacement myself, I've seen people reference this a lot and I don't get it. Most folks who have completed the job successfully seem to have had zero trouble manually bleeding the system, but then others make it sound as if its a bear and takes hours. I haven't gotten to that step yet so I'll see for myself soon.

I did the manual bleed. If I had to do it often, I’d definitely get the tool, but I just didn’t want yet another specialized tool kicking around the garage.

The thing about the manual bleed is that it sortof needs two people, you need to screw around with getting the reservoir lifted a bit, and when your done - you just don’t have that same confidence that it really bled out all the air. I’m certain the vacuum tool is way easier. Still, people have been doing it the old fashioned way for ages. Probably good enough.

 

[Justin Allen]

I did the manual bleed. If I had to do it often, I’d definitely get the tool, but I just didn’t want yet another specialized tool kicking around the garage.

The thing about the manual bleed is that it sortof needs two people, you need to screw around with getting the reservoir lifted a bit, and when your done - you just don’t have that same confidence that it really bled out all the air. I’m certain the vacuum tool is way easier. Still, people have been doing it the old fashioned way for ages. Probably good enough.

Tbh, I don't even remember my source saying you needed to lift the reservoir. I thought it was already elevated above the rest of the system.

 

[jlglr4]

Might depend on V8 vs V6, but on the V6 you need to raise it just a bit - about 2”- then fill right to the top.

 

[Justin Allen]

Might depend on V8 vs V6, but on the V6 you need to raise it just a bit - about 2”- then fill right to the top.

Ahh. You might be right. Mines a 2013.

 

[blake aiken]

I bleed mine through the heater core pipe near the rear, it’s the highest point in the system that I can see. There’s a bleed port of the reservoir as well

2011 v8