Rear end sagging. Time to work on my EAS.

[mbw]

So after a few days the rear end is basically all the way down, but the front stays up. So, I think it is time to work on my EAS. I think my plan is to:

1. Get a air drier rebuild kit (one from lucky8 maybe) and rework the drier in case its getting crap into the lines, and its a 2013 (~75k miles) so I figure its due.
2. Pull the rear valve block apart and replace all the o-rings with a kit I bought off ebay.

I thought I would start there. Anyone with past EAS issues think that sounds good?

Has anyone had issues with the reservoir valve? I assume that if the rear side of it is leaking that the rear block would still hold air and not sink if its ok?

Half the work will just be getting the sliders off, but I need to do that anyway to clean them up and trim my gas tank skid so it meshes better with my asfir rear diff guard.

 

[DiscoNels]

That's a very sound plan. Usually people pull the fuse (not the relay) for the air compressor to confirm valve block leakage, but since your front hasn't dropped it's probably the rear block. Be meticulous when replacing the o-rings in the valve block and make sure everything is clean and dry. If you're going to have the compressor out you may as well replace seals/springs/valves and such on that while you're at it, it will only add to its longevity.

I also had to trim my Tactical 4x4 gas tank skid to fit with the Asfir diff guard. That was back in 2013. Both are beat to hell now due to having fun.

 

[mbw]

Well update. I ended up ordering a new valve block because it was super dirty and messed up. I also talked to lucky8 and they said the AMK compressor is NOT rebuild able.. so that sucks.

My asfir rear diff skid is scratched to hell and I have a big rust spot on the inner side of my t44 gas tank skid that I need to deal with. (i even had the fancy spray metalized coating and it rusted!). My trans skid is fine, but only because my transmission was seeping fluid out.. the damn bolts were pretty loose on my metal pan replacement. So I ordered more fluid to top it up and tightened the bolts.. hopefully it will stop leaking. It wasnt the trans wire plug thing leaking.

Ugh... rover is out of commission for awhile. I need to deal with all of this and do some rust work on the frame and all the skids. Everything is full of dirt too, so I have a lot to deal with.

 

[DiscoNels]

You're lucky that you can get your gas tank skid off. When I went to take mine off after 6 years I ended up snapping bolts off which turned a 15 minute job into a multi day job and hard work. I used POR-15 and completely bathed my gas skid in it.

Like you, I attempted to rebuild my valve block (front in my case) and found that parts were fused together and I couldn't even service it. Luckily I did it on a Saturday and the dealer was open so I could overpay for a new part.

 

[mbw]

You're lucky that you can get your gas tank skid off. When I went to take mine off after 6 years I ended up snapping bolts off which turned a 15 minute job into a multi day job and hard work. I used POR-15 and completely bathed my gas skid in it.

Like you, I attempted to rebuild my valve block (front in my case) and found that parts were fused together and I couldn't even service it. Luckily I did it on a Saturday and the dealer was open so I could overpay for a new part.

I've made a habit of using anti-seize on all the undercarriage bolts and skid bolts. And I try to stay ahead of the rust every year. I was expecting the white spray metalized stuff to last a lot longer on my gas skid. The undersides have been great, even after scratched to hell, but the one big flat section on the gas skid must not do well with moisture sitting on it on the inside part.

I just got my rear block a few minutes ago, so I will put that in soon and see how that goes this weekend. Still need to re-fill my transmission before I get it off the jack stands.

Luckily my LR4 is a garage queen most of the time and not my daily driver. I have an Infiniti G35x that I daily.

 

[mbw]

Rear air block replaced, still sagging.

The reservoir valve block is way more expensive than the rear. I may try to pull it apart and not fully dismantle it... not sure. It must be between there and the rear because only the rear is sagging.

Anyone have other thoughts?