Rear main seal?!

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Jimmy Brooks

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Just had the the car in for 110k service and was told my exhaust manifold bolts were corroded and snapped off but that’s a different post for a different time. On the service sheet I was also reminded that my mechanic believes I have a rear main seal leak. He noticed oil between the engine and the transmission and wants 2 grand to remove the trans just to inspect the leak after. I think he’s just trying to give me a run for my money especially because rear main seals are very dangerous due to the rate at which oil leaks from the engine. But over the last 5k miles the oil level hasn’t dipped below max. I’ve driven the car and haven’t noticed anything dripping from below nor had any issues, so I’m not very concerned but I’d like to hear what you guys have to say.
 

mbw

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My wife had a 2002 Lexus RX that a dealer said had a rear main seal leak. Had it for years after that and it never lost a drop.

I feel like it’s a common money grab, but you can monitor it yourself to find out.
 

ktm525

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My personal philosophy: If the drip does not reach the floor then it is not an issue. Sounds like the shop owner needs to send his kid to college.
 

John Robison

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Rear main seals do often leak, and you have to remove the engine or the transmission to fix them. On a new series Rover V8 or V6 the rear main seal is integrated into the plate shown below, in front of the flywheel at the back of the engine. Most times the transmission, torque converter, and flywheel are removed for access and yes, you should expect a $2k bill.

The reason they say "inspect" is that there are other possible leak sources in there. When you see oil leaking from the engine-transmission bell housing joint, the rear main is a likely culprit. But when in there I would change the torque converter seal too. And I would look at everything else.

If you see other leaks, or you see edgy lines or pipes, the bill can quickly move to $3k and it is not a money grab; that is the cost of fixing that leak. The question is, do you need to fix it? Rear main leaks are not usually very severe so we tend to fix them for people who don't like to see oil spots under their cars. People who don't care, live with minor leakage. It is very rare for a rear main to blow out or fail, and threaten the engine. There is not any urgency to this repair most times.

If your rear main is going drip-drip-drip at idle, you need to fix it, but otherwise, remember most service departments employ advisors who are really commission salespeople to sell service, and while the leak is undoubtedly real, the urgency is only in one's mind most of the time in this particular case

Rear mains are a problem in older standard shift cars when the engine oil leaks onto the clutch plate, but these Rovers don't have clutches and so are immune to that issue.

The engine in the photo was removed for replacement of all 3 timing chains, and the rear main was leaking a bit so it was done while out. If we were doing rear main only we'd pull transmission instead.


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IMG_5100.jpeg
 

Jimmy Brooks

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appreciate the in-depth response. Made me feel a lot better about this minor issue, sometimes the indi shop i take it to Likes to make things seem more urgent then they are.
Rear main seals do often leak, and you have to remove the engine or the transmission to fix them. On a new series Rover V8 or V6 the rear main seal is integrated into the plate shown below, in front of the flywheel at the back of the engine. Most times the transmission, torque converter, and flywheel are removed for access and yes, you should expect a $2k bill.

The reason they say "inspect" is that there are other possible leak sources in there. When you see oil leaking from the engine-transmission bell housing joint, the rear main is a likely culprit. But when in there I would change the torque converter seal too. And I would look at everything else.

If you see other leaks, or you see edgy lines or pipes, the bill can quickly move to $3k and it is not a money grab; that is the cost of fixing that leak. The question is, do you need to fix it? Rear main leaks are not usually very severe so we tend to fix them for people who don't like to see oil spots under their cars. People who don't care, live with minor leakage. It is very rare for a rear main to blow out or fail, and threaten the engine. There is not any urgency to this repair most times.

If your rear main is going drip-drip-drip at idle, you need to fix it, but otherwise, remember most service departments employ advisors who are really commission salespeople to sell service, and while the leak is undoubtedly real, the urgency is only in one's mind most of the time in this particular case

Rear mains are a problem in older standard shift cars when the engine oil leaks onto the clutch plate, but these Rovers don't have clutches and so are immune to that issue.

The engine in the photo was removed for replacement of all 3 timing chains, and the rear main was leaking a bit so it was done while out. If we were doing rear main only we'd pull transmission instead.


View attachment 10970View attachment 10971
 

Stuart Barnes

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I’m with John on this, I’ve ran caterpillar engines for 5,000 hrs (granted these were generators running at constant rpm) with leaking shaft seals, convert that with an average speed of 20 mph you still get 100k miles.

Main thing, keep an eye on it. As already said. If it’s a drip drip drip at idle then get it done. Otherwise. Put it on the list.
 

Stuart Barnes

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As discussed here on the 3K oil change intervals for our LR4s? thread, I would be very wary of changing out the specification of oil in these engines, or any modern engine for that matter. You could quite possibly be trading one problem for another much more expensive one.

As far as conditioners go these in my experience are a band aid, again you have to take into account what the additive does to the oil to make it work. That is if they even work at all, there's a lot of snake oil out there.

As mentioned above, have you established that this is in fact engine oil or could it be from the transmission?

A lot of this type of maintenance comes down to what you're comfortable with in regards to leaks. If its out of your comfort zone then address it sooner rather than later. If you can accept the occasional drip then monitor this closely and then if it worsens address it.

Ultimately you need to do what is comfortable to you for you to enjoy driving and owning your vehicle.
 

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