Replaced rear diff pinion seal, drive shaft and breather

Michael Gain

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Just finished replacing the rear diff pinion seal (it was leaking), the drive shaft (carrier bearing shot), and the rear diff breather (filter did not exist).

Just thought I would post in case anyone had any questions. I was on a time crunch and could not take pictures, but would be more than happy to walk anyone through the procedure.
 

BendRover123

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Hey I do have a question we're is the rear differential breather and filter. How would you access them, do you need to remove anything while the differential is installed to access the breather line?

Primarily I am doing wading improvements and want to raise the location of all the breather filter and hose inlets so when submerged in water they don't suck in any water on cooling down.

Just finished replacing the rear diff pinion seal (it was leaking), the drive shaft (carrier bearing shot), and the rear diff breather (filter did not exist).

Just thought I would post in case anyone had any questions. I was on a time crunch and could not take pictures, but would be more than happy to walk anyone through the procedure.
 

Michael Gain

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Hey I do have a question we're is the rear differential breather and filter. How would you access them, do you need to remove anything while the differential is installed to access the breather line?

Primarily I am doing wading improvements and want to raise the location of all the breather filter and hose inlets so when submerged in water they don't suck in any water on cooling down.

Happy to help. The breather is attached to the fuel filler neck. To access, you need to remove the rear, passenger-side splash shield. There was no filter on mine, but it should look like the one under the hood by the coolant overflow.

The splash shield is the only thing you need to remove. The breather line is pretty accessible on the top of the rear diff if you want to replace the whole line. I ended up just using an ARB-knockoff breather and used the stock line.

As far as increasing wading depth, and if I remember correctly, the breather is as high as it can go--without getting creative or moving the breather into the cabin.

You may be able to run an air line down from the fuel filler compartment and install the breather next to the gas gap though. That would gain you about 4 more inches. Moving it into the cabin could be as simple as extending the line to the rear bumper and routing the line up through one of the rear tail light grommets.

I hope that helps!
 

ktm525

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With or without a breather above waterline top the oil seems to get contaminated. With the price of diffs best practice is to assume the worst after wading and do a fluid change.
 

BendRover123

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Fantastic that was super helpful and the first time I have actually seen somebody state and know where it is! I'll likely just use the existing line and extend it, the little filter cap they have on those positive pressure relief lines can cause a vacuum I believe since they are one way and therefore don't need a filter, it's a good idea to replace them with those ARB setups or a filter to avoid that. That probably is also why the oil may get contaminated for some folks wading not sure. I was thinking about routing that line to the engine compartment rear fire wall area, that seems as high up in the car as you can go other than you said going inside the car, the problem with that is that it may get a little smelly over time. If someone has experience routing it into the cabin please feel free to comment.

Happy to help. The breather is attached to the fuel filler neck. To access, you need to remove the rear, passenger-side splash shield. There was no filter on mine, but it should look like the one under the hood by the coolant overflow.

The splash shield is the only thing you need to remove. The breather line is pretty accessible on the top of the rear diff if you want to replace the whole line. I ended up just using an ARB-knockoff breather and used the stock line.

As far as increasing wading depth, and if I remember correctly, the breather is as high as it can go--without getting creative or moving the breather into the cabin.

You may be able to run an air line down from the fuel filler compartment and install the breather next to the gas gap though. That would gain you about 4 more inches. Moving it into the cabin could be as simple as extending the line to the rear bumper and routing the line up through one of the rear tail light grommets.

I hope that helps!
 

BendRover123

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One other question on the splash shield are you talking about the wheel well liner or something else?

Happy to help. The breather is attached to the fuel filler neck. To access, you need to remove the rear, passenger-side splash shield. There was no filter on mine, but it should look like the one under the hood by the coolant overflow.

The splash shield is the only thing you need to remove. The breather line is pretty accessible on the top of the rear diff if you want to replace the whole line. I ended up just using an ARB-knockoff breather and used the stock line.

As far as increasing wading depth, and if I remember correctly, the breather is as high as it can go--without getting creative or moving the breather into the cabin.

You may be able to run an air line down from the fuel filler compartment and install the breather next to the gas gap though. That would gain you about 4 more inches. Moving it into the cabin could be as simple as extending the line to the rear bumper and routing the line up through one of the rear tail light grommets.

I hope that helps!
 

Michael Gain

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One other question on the splash shield are you talking about the wheel well liner or something else?

Yes, sorry. Wheel well liner.

I cannot see a reason why you could not run the line into the engine compartment. Just need to strategically avoid the driveline and exhaust components.
 

BendRover123

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Great suggestion as those lines aren't wear or temperature resistant. I'll give it a try next weekend maybe take pictures.

Yes, sorry. Wheel well liner.

I cannot see a reason why you could not run the line into the engine compartment. Just need to strategically avoid the driveline and exhaust components.
 

BendRover123

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I read something very similar in an offroad manual, it said check your differential fluid after you finish your wading trip or day for water contamination. Have you had experience with any contamination or water getting into the Landover Differentials? I wonder what a quick check would look like, remove fill plug stick a piece of wood or paper in an see what it looks like on removal?

With or without a breather above waterline top the oil seems to get contaminated. With the price of diffs best practice is to assume the worst after wading and do a fluid change.
b
 

Michael Gain

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I read something very similar in an offroad manual, it said check your differential fluid after you finish your wading trip or day for water contamination. Have you had experience with any contamination or water getting into the Landover Differentials? I wonder what a quick check would look like, remove fill plug stick a piece of wood or paper in an see what it looks like on removal?


b

I use a white zip tie to check diff oil levels and condition. You don't want paper or wood pieces getting in there.
 

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