Replacement Timing Chain/Tensioner Longevity Question

dlimanov

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Searched in the forum but could not get a definitive answer. If timing chain tensioners/guides/chains were replaced with redisigned components, what is the average life expectancy of these new items? There’s an 2010 LR4 for sale locally that had all these done at 60k mi by the dealer and is now at nearly double the mileage, wondering if the new components will last the “life of the car” or are they end of their service life and will need to be replaced again soon.
Thanks in advance!
 

ryanjl

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A lot longer than the original ones, but the frequency of oil changes plays a big part. Closer to 6 to 7k miles, the better.
 

dlimanov

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Thanks, Ryan. The car in question had 5k mi intervals throughout most of its life. Didn’t help much with the first cycle of tensioners, hopefully the improved version lasts longer.
 

djkaosone

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Word on the street is the updated tensioner and guides are still susceptible to failure. '14 and up are starting to notice timing chain issues too.

Make sure you frequently check your oil level between oil changes too. My oil change frequency was every 3k and I would always be low on oil in between changes. Zero leaks. Just saying.
 

dlimanov

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Thanks, DJ. That’s exactly what I’ve heard from the L405 crowd: the final iteration of tensioners that don’t wear out guides came out after 2015 MY, so I guess it’s a safe bet anything that anything older than that, original or replaced, is a potential failure point.
 

mm3846

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there are early LR4s out there with original chains and tensioners on them with high miles. change the oil frequently and you'll be fine.
 

djkaosone

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Thanks, DJ. That’s exactly what I’ve heard from the L405 crowd: the final iteration of tensioners that don’t wear out guides came out after 2015 MY, so I guess it’s a safe bet anything that anything older than that, original or replaced, is a potential failure point.
Not necessarily. You can also check the timing chain on bank 2 or LH (looking from inside the cab) for tension through the oil cap. Push down and pull up on the chain with something like an o-ring removal tool that has a 90* tip.

there are early LR4s out there with original chains and tensioners on them with high miles. change the oil frequently and you'll be fine.
I would agree with @mm3846 on this. Checking and changing your oil is THE best bet. I recently changed over to Amsoil Signature Series and the engine is super quiet. Listening to your engine for chains slapping is another good indication.
 

dlimanov

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Correct me if I’m wrong but the chain guide issue was due to the metallurgy defect on the guide itself where the tensioner would, in time, dent the spot in far enough that it would no longer supply necessary tension to the guide and the chain. Upgraded part had a different metal compound for the contact patch, and I believe the angle of the tensioner piston was also changed. I don’t see how either of these issues would be rectified by more often oil changes, unlike in, say BMW M62TU engine, where the guides were made of a composite plastic and would deteriorate and crumble with long oil change intervals.
 

Paul Teague

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Searched in the forum but could not get a definitive answer. If timing chain tensioners/guides/chains were replaced with redisigned components, what is the average life expectancy of these new items? There’s an 2010 LR4 for sale locally that had all these done at 60k mi by the dealer and is now at nearly double the mileage, wondering if the new components will last the “life of the car” or are they end of their service life and will need to be replaced again soon.
Thanks in advance!
I just replaced my tensioners, chain, guides, starter, Radiator, and pulleys. Now when I start Bluetooth or change stations on the Satellite my, tach and speedo freak out. Has anyone had that? I also put in a new battery
 

ryanjl

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Correct me if I’m wrong but the chain guide issue was due to the metallurgy defect on the guide itself where the tensioner would, in time, dent the spot in far enough that it would no longer supply necessary tension to the guide and the chain. Upgraded part had a different metal compound for the contact patch, and I believe the angle of the tensioner piston was also changed. I don’t see how either of these issues would be rectified by more often oil changes, unlike in, say BMW M62TU engine, where the guides were made of a composite plastic and would deteriorate and crumble with long oil change intervals.

There's been some debate about whether oil changes help, but the general consensus is that the vehicles whose oil changes are kept closer to 6k (instead of Land Rover's recommended 15k) seem to fare better.

The tensioners themselves rely on oil pressure to work properly. Subtle variances in the oil quality can affect their performance. That, and the impact area between the tensioners and the guides presumably works better when oiled.

You are mostly right on the issue and the redesign. Here's a video that explains why the old tensioners fail:


And here is what the redesigned guides look like:


You can see where there is now a steel (?) button in the guide where the tensioner makes contact. The thought is a good, clean thin layer of oil on that contact area can ameliorate the erosive effect over time.
 

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