Replacing the Rear Differential Control Module

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dochummer

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Replacing the Rear Differential Actuator / Motor

Just got my module via UPS today. Am planning on replacing it this weekend. From what I understand, it's unplugging the cable, removing four bolts, cleaning the area, put some sealant down (RTV Right Stuff), put new one on, torque bolts to 7ft-lbs, replace connector, take to mechanic to clear the error codes. Oh, and return old part to recover the core charge. :) Am I missing anything?
 
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EIGHTLUG

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Sounds pretty straight forward to me. The module is located @ the 12 o'clock position. So, be sure the area is clean and be careful not to drop anything (dirt / debris). These diffs are really finicky. The good part is you wont lose any fluid.
 

thorgal

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If you talking about a rear diff. control motor /solenoid , that needs to be recalibrated after install via appropriate computer..
 

dochummer

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I had the vehicle diagnosed at Land Rover and they recommended replacement of the part. They said that my local mechanic could do it for me as long as he could clear the error codes when done. He spoke with the service rep directly and confirmed that he could do it. They said that nothing else needed to be done. They went ahead and updated all the software and such at the visit. I've decided to do the work on my own and then pay the mechanic to clear the codes.

Just picked up some grease/oil for the connector and was told by the local auto shop that RTV Blue should be sufficient for the sealant.
 

Trynian

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I had the vehicle diagnosed at Land Rover and they recommended replacement of the part. They said that my local mechanic could do it for me as long as he could clear the error codes when done. He spoke with the service rep directly and confirmed that he could do it. They said that nothing else needed to be done. They went ahead and updated all the software and such at the visit. I've decided to do the work on my own and then pay the mechanic to clear the codes.

Just picked up some grease/oil for the connector and was told by the local auto shop that RTV Blue should be sufficient for the sealant.

I would not worry about the calibration mentioned. I installed a locking diff on a LR3 that did not have one including the elctrionics to operate it and did not do any calibration and all works fine. In fact the car does a self calibration everytime you turn it on.
 

dochummer

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Ok, FINALLY got the old actuator out. Couldn't figure out how to get it out with the exhaust pipes in the way. I finally disconnected the rear hangers so I could get some more movement in the pipes. With a foot near the end of the tail pipe pushing, I was able to get the old one out. Cleaned the area and hopefully didn't drop any old silicone pieces into the differential area. It's definately difficult to even see the surface area, did it all by feel. Put some RTV blue on the new part and put it on. Now waiting for it to dry before I tighten it down and hook it back up.... Wish me luck. :) 3 hours so far...
 

dochummer

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Everything is installed and running, however the Transmission Fault is still showing up. My guess is that the error codes need to be cleared for it to stop showing up?
 

Trynian

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Everything is installed and running, however the Transmission Fault is still showing up. My guess is that the error codes need to be cleared for it to stop showing up?

Yes, or you can try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and connecting the 2 leads together to clear all faults in the car.
 

dochummer

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Tried the battery disconnect for 8-9 minutes and connecting the leads together with a socket wrench. Still showing a Transmission Fault. Will a standard ODBII reader at Autozone be able to read/clear codes?

This is getting really frustrating.... I'll be torqued if it wasn't in fact the Rear Diff Actuator.... :(
 

Trynian

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No, a standard ODBII reader will not be able to read the codes for the diff. Need a shop with a LR diagnostic computer.

I am a bit confused. You original post title said Rear diff control module which is actually the computer module that runs the diff. Also called the diff locking module. The actuater motor or locking motor is what you replaced so are you sure you replaced the correct piece?
 

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