Seized Engine Removal

[Hubes]

My LR4 has a seized engine that I am attempting to repair. I am preparing to remove the motor, but I have a dilemma. I need to be able to turn the crank to get to the flex plate bolts to disconnect the torque converter, but with the engine seized, I cannot turn the crank. I have removed most of the upper half of the engine and accessories, so I can confirm it is not seized there, so the issue is in the bottom end. My thought was to remove the oil pan and release the rods from the crank, and possibly loosen the crank journal bolts in order to turn it.

Problem: It looks like in the repair manual that there are bolts on the bottom of the rear main seal cover that are attached to the oil pan? I have all the oil pan bolts removed, but it does seem something is holding the back of the pan in, and I did not want to force it and break anything. Can anyone confirm that this is the case? Or am I interpreting the manual incorrectly? To get to main seal cover, I would have to remove the flex plate, which requires the engine to be disconnected from the trans....you see my dilemma...

If this is the case, do you have any other suggestions on getting this crank turned so that I can disconnect the torque converter and remove this engine? Of course I am trying to destroy as little as possible.

 

[Michael Gain]

I am sorry that you're having such issues. It can definitely be frustrating.

How did the engine seize? Just visualizing the problem, I am trying to rule out transmission/torque converter seizure.

Manually put the trans in neutral, or raise all 4 wheels off of the ground and see if the crank will rotate then.

Barring that working, you may have to just cut the oil pan off to get to the bearing caps and rod ends.

 

[Hubes]

I believe the cause of the seizure was oil starvation, but I do not know that for a fact. I was able to move the truck by putting the trans in neutral (had to push it up the driveway). I suppose it could be that the torque converter froze up, but short of that, I would think you should be able to turn the crank since their is no 'hard' connection between the torque converter and the engine. Speaking of torque converter. If I were just to pull the engine leaving the torque convert connected to the flex plate will it just slide off the transmission shaft? Could that be a possible solution to this issue? Just wondering if that would damage the converter or the trans in any way.

 

[Hubes]

I went ahead and removed the engine with the torque converter attached. Now I still have the issue of removing the converter from the flex plate. My idea is to cut a slot on the back side of the bolt with a Dremel and use a screwdriver (or impact drill or impact driver) to turn it. Once that is loose I should be able to remove the converter and the flex plate, then I should have access to the bolts to remove the oil pan.

 

[grimmecm]

Interested to follow along with this.

 

[Wiry Dawg]

Interesting your able to pull the engine. I resonantly was at a Vancouver Landrover Shop where they were doing an engine swap do to a blown connecting rod on a Range Rover Sport. To do the engine swap they lifted to whole body off the frame.

 

[BeemerNut]

I bet those converter to flexplate are secured with Loctite thread locker.
Man your into an expensive project, sell the kids to fund this project, JK!

I got snagged into a 5.0 heads replacing by a friend that couldn't pass up a "sweet deal" LR.
My first and last time touncing a 5.0 engine. He's totally at $2,500 for a LR4 including heads, gaskets and parts.
Good luck on your adventure and wallet...Another LR owner is in the process of install a LS Chubbie in his with a lot of GM running gear he has from past life GM 4 x 4's in thr family and owners....~~=o&o>.....

 

[Hubes]

Sorry for not replying. Life got in the way. Finally got the torque converter off. Ended up just drilling the bolts out. Will run a tap though the nuts on the torque convert to clean them up, but they look in good shape. With the torque converter now off, I was able to unbolt the Flex Plate and removed the rear main seal plate. Got the engine on the stand and was able to remove the oil pan and oil pump. Now I have a good view of the crank. Notice anything interesting?

 

[Hubes]

Crank position 5/6 looks dry. No oil compared to the others. Any thoughts? My guess is oil starvation, possibly do to a slipped bearing, or clogged oil passage on the crank. Let me know if you have any other ideas. At this point I need to remove the rod cap bolts and see if I can move the pistons and turn the crank, so I am looking at a bottom end service. At a minimum replacing the 5/6 piston rods and bearings, and if there is any damage to the crank, I may need to remove it and get it serviced also.

I am in need of a torque spec sheet for the bottom end of this engine. Does anyone know where I can get that information? My repair manual shows all the info for the upper end (heads, cams etc.) but nothing for the Crank and Rod bolt torques.

 

[Hubes]

Took the connecting rod off the crank journal. Spun bearing....