Selling LR4

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Fields Carlisle

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My LR4 started showing Eco Stop/Start unavailable a couple of weeks ago. A quick search online reveals it’s probably the auxiliary battery has died. It’s 5 years old, so that makes sense. I replaced the big main battery last year with a new AGM battery, but didn’t bother with the secondary battery. I thought the auxiliary battery would be $50 or something because it’s the size of a jet ski or lawn mower battery, but the dealership wanted nearly $400 for one. I couldn’t believe it. I called all of the auto parts stores and Batteries+ but nobody could get the auxiliary battery. It has round post terminals like a normal-sized car battery whereas most 14-15Ah batteries that size have little tabs or square terminals.

I contacted Exide, who supposedly manufacturers the battery, and they said they can’t even find it in their US catalog...

So I started an online search. The OE battery is labeled with JLR and Exide names, but only a JLR part number. People on Jaguar forums said the actual battery is an Exide EK151. I found a website called Tayna Batteries in the UK, and they have that exact battery for sale for £39.99 which is a fraction of the price the JLR dealer wanted.

Including shipping to the US, I paid $76.02. I saw the same batteries available on EBay, but they shipped from Lithuania or Latvia and were $100 + $29 shipping. I just wanted to let everyone know about this in case you too need to replace your auxiliary battery. Once this battery comes in I’m likely going to put my rig up for sale. I just don’t need two cars anymore, but I don’t want to sell my car to someone with a warning lamp illuminated, so I figure it is best to get the battery first. I’ll be so sad to see my LR4 go because I really love it, but financially it just doesn’t make sense for me to have two cars now.

If anyone local to Raleigh, NC or surrounding areas may be looking for a late-2014 LR4 HSE LUX (Loire Blue/Beige) with about 76K miles, HEAVY DUTY PACKAGE (rear locker), hitch adapter, trailer brake controller, running boards (currently removed, but could reinstall them), always serviced early (I do oil and filter changes every 7500 miles with Amsoil Signature Series Synthetic, front and rear differentials and transfer case fluids changed @ 70K miles), Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Xenon headlights, etc. just let me know.

I will also include my IIDToolBT with the car.
 

CThody

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Hi. Thank you for this information. I am new to Disco 4 ownership and my eco light is permanently on.
Where can I find information on how to change this battery? Or can this battery be charged with a normal 12v trickle charger?
Thanks again.
 

Fields Carlisle

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Hi. Thank you for this information. I am new to Disco 4 ownership and my eco light is permanently on.
Where can I find information on how to change this battery? Or can this battery be charged with a normal 12v trickle charger?
Thanks again.
So, I actually sold my LR4...

What you have to do is remove the plastic battery cover, remove the gray foam topper piece, then use a socket (I want to say it’s 10 or 12mm) and remove the two bolts securing the metal strap that keeps the battery in place. The rest of the process is just like removing any other battery. You unscrew the leads going to the terminals and pull the battery out. Most likely you will need a new battery, HOWEVER, it’s also possible you could have a faulty dual battery junction box (also called a PDSB). It’s really a simple process. Takes no more than 5 minutes to change the batteries.
 

Fields Carlisle

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Hi. Thank you. Does the battery then need coding to the car? I hear different views on this.
If you have an IIDTool you can go in to the service options where you reset service interval and there’s an option for something that says “replace secondary/auxiliary battery” or something very similar. You Will know immediately that you’re looking at the right thing. You don’t HAVE to do it, it is just recommended.
 

DaytonaRS7

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That’s again. I have it got the IID tool, can’t afford one yet ☹️

i feel the IID tool is expensive too. i put off purchasing one becuase of this. when financially able, add it to the top of your list.

i had a no start issue after doing a DIY repair. required a tow to the dealer, diagnostic cost, and repair cost. all in, almost $800.
the problem...a swapped wire harness plug, causing a false sensor reading.

The IID tool would have been able to display the monitors and i would have known immediately what the issue was. unfortunately i didn't own it yet.

this repair alone would have paid for the IID tool and then some.
since then ive serviced the air suspension and reset service monitors. if i had to go to the dealer for these things, i would have paid nearly 3x the cost of the IID tool.

So far my $500 investment has saved me about $1000.

owning a mityvac and IID tool should be considered must haves for any LR4 owner.
 

Quijote

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For anyone wanting to do their own work the IIDtool is basically a must. But I definitely can understand that it is a lot of money to spend. In my case, I bought it early on, when the car was nearly new and I knew I would have it for years. Also, relative to the price of a new LR4 it wasn't scary. But putting myself in others' shoes, if I were buying a used LR4 for say, $12k, and I wasn't entirely sure I'd be keeping it for years, it would probably give me pause to spend on one. Then again, it's such a necessary item that to me, it has to be looked at as part of the price of entry. Consider it a tax. The cost of going to a pro who has it or the stress and time of trying to diagnose issues or work around not having one would easily justify the cost. And I say this as an owner that due to mileage, use, and luck has gotten relatively little use out of it. So far, I believe I've only used it for service interval resets, new battery and voltage checks, and checking for status, faults, and other curiosities.
 

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