Slider install - Question

[Quijote]

I'm trying to install my voyager sliders and I have a question:

Are you supposed to remove the yellow snaps that held the plastic side moulding? I can't get them off without breaking them.

Thanks!

I'm stuck waiting for my brother or dad because these damn things are too heave for me to lift and install by myself.

Also, I don't get what they mean re: having to drill a hole on the small front trim piece. I guess I'll find out when I get help and can look at it better.

 

[umbertob]

Yes, at least with the Tactical sliders those yellow poppers have got to go (only way is to cut them.) Otherwise, the frame of the sliders would not sit flush against the sills.

 

[mbw]

Ya, bust them all off, easier to replace them than to get them out in one piece.

 

[Quijote]

Figured as much, so that's what I did. Thanks.

 

[Quijote]

Follow-up question.

The front, bottom hole on the slider seems to line up with an existing bolt on the underside of the LR4. Problem is, the bolt is not an M8 as with all the other holes. It appears to be an M6 or so. This hole is also covered by the front plastic molding and the instructions ask that you mark the spot and drill out and clearance hole. That's fine, but again the provided M8 screws don't fit, and the exiting bolt is not long enough.

Any pointers? I've emailed them, but no response so far.

 

[Finlayforprez]

Follow-up question.

The front, bottom hole on the slider seems to line up with an existing bolt on the underside of the LR4. Problem is, the bolt is not an M8 as with all the other holes. It appears to be an M6 or so. This hole is also covered by the front plastic molding and the instructions ask that you mark the spot and drill out and clearance hole. That's fine, but again the provided M8 screws don't fit, and the exiting bolt is not long enough.

Any pointers? I've emailed them, but no response so far.

I e-mailed the independent LR garage that installed the sliders on my 2011, as I remember my Voyager sliders had that issue as well and they told me they had to get new hardware and drill holes when they thought they did not need to do so.

 

[Quijote]

I e-mailed the independent LR garage that installed the sliders on my 2011, as I remember my Voyager sliders had that issue as well and they told me they had to get new hardware and drill holes when they thought they did not need to do so.

Thanks!

Well, there is no need to drill that out (from what I can tell/recall). Worst case, I will get a screw that fits the existing hole.

I am also not using their hardware. I don't like the sharp corners of the hex head bolts and REALLY do not like the zinc plating. I am going to use button-head stainless screws to prevent any corrosion. I'll just get a long M6 (or M5) screw to replace the on that is in there.

That's the benefit of working where I do. I have access to any screw I want for "free." And we are a metric company, so that's even easier.

FYI, even going with stainless, each M8 screw is good for a minimum strength of 4000lbs. Considering there are 11 screws per slider, I'm not worried about them failing.

 

[mbw]

I may want to look into another set of bolts too.. sounds like a nice change.


I didn't even bother putting the front bolts in mine. Looked like overkill anyway.

 

[Quijote]

See attached. On left, the three lengths (25, 30 & 40) of M6 SS button-head screw I will try to replace the LR4 M6 screw (shown with its captive washer).

On right, the M8 zinc-plated Voyager screw and my replacement SS button head screw.

 

[Quijote]

More info...

Turns out that you need at least a 30mm-long M6 to replace the M6 screw.

As for the M8's, the supplied M8 x 25mm-long screws are fine for the sides but do not provide sufficient thread engagement at the bottom. I will replace those with 30mm-long screws.