Striker bolts size

[Snow]

Hi i my 95 Disco i just purchase few weeks ago came with a strap holding the hood down. I order a new striker but i didn’t came with bolts.
Anyone know the bolt size? maybe my local auto part may have it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[joey]

Give Nathan a call in my signature (On Monday) he may even have a set or can get them.

 

[Snow]

Thanks!!

 

[BeemerNut]

On the Disco 2 it's a M8 x20 flanged bolt. Not knowing if LR kept the same bolt dimention on later Disco 2, one would think same bolt keeping the bean counters happy? Pricing less than a buck to around $3.00 last recall. Grade 8 automotive parts store or your local Pick-n-Pull will be your future friend unless you have the time ordering LR bolts?

You in a wet raining location, check those sunroof drain tubes known to plug up ending with water in the interior.
That plus keep an eye on those curved "Alpine" windows a know area having rust and holes rusted out issues with the metal roof vs aluminum body.
Front floor boards not rusted out making for a Flintdtone Disco from years of windshield (A pillar) or roof leaks.

Schitte can that plastic burp plug on top of the radiator on the right side and get yourself a brass one off an older Range Rover. Cooked brittle plastic over time one less item to fail while out in the bush. Whittled green tree branch plug got me home once then installed a brass one.

Power steering hose (low pressure side) from reservoir to P/S pump are of crappy grade of rubber causing leaks, you'll be tightening the clamps as they become loose then leaking making a big mess over time. Leaking to a point thinking you have a failing P/S pump or steering box, garage floor a mess, LR in competition with Harley's?
P/S box, that was a one year wonder failure that Ford designed then sold the P/S rights to LR.
Exact design on my 10/67 date produced Ford F250 Camper Special. By 11/68 Ford upgraded to a proven Saginaw box solving "twitchy at speed" and leaking input shaft seal failures.

Unknown your mileage, steering box PROPERLY ADJUSTED with input shaft disconnected along with draglink at the Pitman arm adjusted removing normal wear or play also accelerated if past life owner ran monster tyres as well off road use.
Swivel pins properly adjusted along with all steering links all tight without play your D1 should steer like a factory new D1 not correcting and wondering all over the road.

Congrats owning a 95 with OBD1 vs 96 or newer into OBD2 smog BS along with their failing ignition coil packs also a expensive PITA to replace being mounted on the firewall. Engine heat not the best location either.

With the dizzy 95 Disco 1, clean and lube (thin Teflon grease) the mechanical advance unit and keep an eye on the vacuum advance unit.

While at Pick-Your-Parts or Pick-n-Pull checking 3.9 engines I have found 60 to 75% of them had failed vacuum advance units also causing failed our (****) Calif. smog checks.
Any vacuum leak including the plastic tube a crack along with the rubber end fittings loose at that metal ****** on the plenum cover above the throttle butterfly or at the dizzy that small restricted signal is lost. A very small restritive hole in that metal ****** slowing down the vacuum signal slowing down the reaction of vacuum advance a ******** (EPA BS thing). Result no vacuum advance at the dizzy just mechanical which is sure bet dry and gummed up by now due to age, heat and mileage.
I'll shut up now sounding like a wise azz, 95 D1 5-speed owner 23 years and counting without dealerships at this end.......~~=o&o>.......

 

[Snow]

Wow thanks, thats a ton of good info.
My LR has 181… miles we are taking down the headliner because is leaking like you said im hoping is the drain hose and not the unit itself.i just order front and back bushing she don’t wonder all over the road but i see some dry rubber.
So far i only see rust on driver floor pan in a corner is nothing big but you know rust… it never sleep.
Engine is solid… at least feel that way.
I also order a transmission filter kit because oil is not clear red.

again thank you for all the good info.

 

[BeemerNut]

Snow, BTW were you able to click into your PM (personal mail) section of your membership on this forum?
Not to **** off moderators or members here's a couple photos I posted long ago on LR forum a reply on cold air intake systems. I recall after one member used aluminum laundry dryer flex vent ducting that ended up sucking hot dirty road air under his air dam as a solution for his cold air system.

I used two rubber 45 degee 3" hose tubes off 87 era Ford Mustangs ending up with the perfect offset and length ending just ahead of the radiator support also behind the left headlight hole for lamp replacement. No rain water as the air entering the grill has to make a sharp 90 degree turn left hence dry cold also compressed air the faster you drove. A difference in performance that was felt by the BUTT-O-METER with three passengers as witnesses the difference in performance felt.

Here in "****" Kalifornia a 90 secons swap back to the restrictive snorkel sucking hot underhood air as well a readjustment of the TPS (throttle position sensor) the screw holes slotted able to rotate it to the Mark Adams chip instructions properly fueling the engine increasing the voltage signal to the ECM. Chip was a must especially with the slightly "warmed over" 4.6 engine install which also works on the 3.9 engines. Later 4.0's requires double stacked chips to install also way more expensive. Talking 1999 when I purchase the chip hence a lot cheaper vs present day pricing.
Had several other photos including the injector cleaning unit I built now deleted of the Bosch 4-hole injectors ending up with a set of eight flowing within 3/4% each other from simulated 200 to 8,500 rpm's, 3% to 90%duty cycle. The 4-hole Bosch, tight 15 degree spray angle not wettingbthe port walls alone vs Lucas old single dribble 80's design was an improvement with finer fuel atomization.
Poly bushings along with installing zerk fittings to every suspension joint if OEM without zerks required the use of a modified Vice-Grip four finger tubing clamp to compress tie rod ends and ball joints slightly until dislocating the joints app 1/16" to 1/8" allowing grease to get past the non-grooved ball so grease can pass and fill the grease sacks.
Still stiff tight factory original (non greaseable now with zerks) tie-rod ends and ball joints at 143,000 miles.
Don't forget the LR upgrade to install their "One Shot" paste grease to your steering swivel balls vs 90 wt. oil that will leak out. I perfer one and one half packages grease each side verse only one to better lube the U-joing and everything else inside. Gear oil leaks out then running dry damaging the U-joints internally or shall I say the constant velocity joints to be PC?
Scroll down to the bottom of this below thread my photos not the under hood design rubbish at the top. My ducting is for the 95 D1.

Cold air intake for a 98 D1 - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Modifications - Cold air intake for a 98 D1 - https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landroverforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/d6431d1c_061a_4d3f_bd7b_4ae95e8d8870_37b1d9878ff773000cd33b73a59c36f39d94dede.jpeg wondering if anyone has put one of these on a D1 and had success? This particular unit is off a Subaru

landroverforums.com

...........................................................~~=o&o>................................................................................