Tailgate will not open
- Thread starter quickdraw
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angasreid
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Ugh. This is a common problem with the LR3. There is a way to get in, I took a few parts off to try it myself, but found myself a little overwhelmed with plastic and parts.
Search the forum about this, there's lots of threads on it. I ended up taking mine to the dealer, and I think it cost $110 to "break into" my trunk and install a new actuator. (which is usually the culprit) Good luck, many of us have been in your shoes.
Search the forum about this, there's lots of threads on it. I ended up taking mine to the dealer, and I think it cost $110 to "break into" my trunk and install a new actuator. (which is usually the culprit) Good luck, many of us have been in your shoes.
nwoods
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Also search www.disco3.co.uk
BTW: i have a recent quote from the dealer to fix this issue and it was some $550, i believe. Extended Warranty eventually covered the work, but the part was not cheap. The "break-in" process is apparently pretty time intensive, as well.
toddjb122
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Yes, this happened to my truck twice (every 30,000 miles). Finally, at around 75,000 I had them implement a pre-emptive fix I read about here and I've made it to 95,000 without another failure. I am hopeful that this will hold me as long as I own the truck. It was funny when I asked for the work...the SA said "why don't you just wait for it to fail again and LR will pay for the repair?" my reply "because it is worth me paying you an hour of labor now to fix it right rather than be stranded 12 miles from a paved road with a truck full of gear and no easy way to access it!" "oh, that makes sense." LOL
No matter who pays for the repair, I'd have them do something other than the standard part replacement as it will break again in the future. The fix (again, search for more details) was to loop the cable through the window latch mechanism and crimp it, as opposed to the factory method which is just a right angle bend laid into the mechanism. That eventually breaks off.
It sucks. Good luck!
No matter who pays for the repair, I'd have them do something other than the standard part replacement as it will break again in the future. The fix (again, search for more details) was to loop the cable through the window latch mechanism and crimp it, as opposed to the factory method which is just a right angle bend laid into the mechanism. That eventually breaks off.
It sucks. Good luck!
The permanent fix ..........
This is a useful mod.
http://www.lrrforum.com/showthread.php?t=16325
I don't think the original latch is upto much , but at least the panel can
be ripped off when it does fail
This is a useful mod.
http://www.lrrforum.com/showthread.php?t=16325
I don't think the original latch is upto much , but at least the panel can
be ripped off when it does fail
This just happened to me - what complete BS. And they charged me $694 for the repair, which is complete BS for a known design flaw. And that price is only after I ******* and screamed about their initial quote of $936. I'm going ballaistic over this. How can we fight back???
Are you NOVA LR3 as in Northern Virginia? I have a quote dated 4/15/10 from Chantilly that shows the parts cost $193.18 and the labor of $250 for 2 hours labor. There's also a $59.95 "other" charge and tax of $9.20.
That's still half what you paid. I also know for a fact that LR Warranty (APCO) will only reimburse LR dealers around $320 for the same work.
You're wasting your breathe if the car is out of warranty. Extended warranty will cover the work, though.
My Dealer here in Queensland Australia has repaired several of these
on warranties over the past 3 years . He told me it now takes him 46 mins !
The first was an hour and a half , since he was concerned about panel damage
and unsure of what to rip-at . He now asks the owners if they would go-with a
modification of the repair to a loop-end rather than a bent-end , since it won't
come adrift.
I still think the addition of a pull wire is good . The electrical switch fails too
due to water ingress , and a pull cord is a good backup . If the whole mechanism
is open for repair , why not attach one ? No different than emergency release
pulls in the car boot of sedans .............
on warranties over the past 3 years . He told me it now takes him 46 mins !
The first was an hour and a half , since he was concerned about panel damage
and unsure of what to rip-at . He now asks the owners if they would go-with a
modification of the repair to a loop-end rather than a bent-end , since it won't
come adrift.
I still think the addition of a pull wire is good . The electrical switch fails too
due to water ingress , and a pull cord is a good backup . If the whole mechanism
is open for repair , why not attach one ? No different than emergency release
pulls in the car boot of sedans .............
