TAILGATE WON'T OPEN

[djatkinson]

Hello, all!

I'm sure someone on this forum has had this issue before.
The rear tailgate is no longer opening after I push the 'unlock' button, or try to activate it from the key fob. When I push the button on the door repeatedly, I can hear the motor inside getting fainter, until it's no longer audible.
Is there a fix, or should I just try my luck at replacing it?!
Thanks in advance!

 

[ejmecanico1]

Hello, all!

I'm sure someone on this forum has had this issue before.
The rear tailgate is no longer opening after I push the 'unlock' button, or try to activate it from the key fob. When I push the button on the door repeatedly, I can hear the motor inside getting fainter, until it's no longer audible.
Is there a fix, or should I just try my luck at replacing it?!
Thanks in advance!

Try take the back cover off and you will see the system and the most have some plastic joint there for the cable the some small butt strong toll and move it after that replace the hole cable

Enviado de meu SM-J710MN usando Tapatalk

 

[howardduff]

Atlantic British has a video to show you how to repair this. Go to roverparts.com. Doesn't look like too much fun, but looks do able if you are inclined. Also there is a post on this forum where a person put in a cable to unlatch the lock if this happens.

 

[bbyer]

I regard the rear hatch will not open as a major fuss. The fix is not too difficult once you know what is wrong and have the hatch open, but that is the problem.

The link below shows some pictures of what is inside the lower half.

First off, all the moving parts are in the lower half so the trick is to get the black carpet removed from the lower half and at the bits without damaging the electrical wires that are hidden within.

Since you can sort of hear movement within, my guess is the gear motor that pulls the cable is getting tired or the L that holds the pull cable to the gear motor is broken. Either way, the fix is a new one.

There is also the possibility that the rubber switch near the license plate has to be replaced; for me, it was both, but not at the same time.

If you can hear movement, but cannot get the rear hatch to open, there is one trick to try - that is getting the system voltage up to give the gear motor more power. This assumes the problem is a tired gear motor and not a broken cable L. You raise the voltage to the gear motor by not turning the engine off, but letting it idle and then push the rubber button at the rear.

The upper hatch might just release. If so, then get busy and remove the carpet panels on the lower hatch so even if you have to close the rear before you get parts, that at least you have access.

Also there are the rear hatch release buttons on the front dash if the problem is the rubber switch - which is an easier fix - just pry out the switch and install a new one.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4155

 

[djatkinson]

OK, so a happy ending to my tale!

Every once in awhile, the tailgate would open.
So...I jumped on the opportunity to take it apart without having to deal with PITA of accessing the actuator from inside the Rover. One I got the carpeted panel off, carefully peeled the water shedder off to preserve it, and pulled out the actuator, I noticed that all of the mechanisms appeared to be intact. That is, the cable was still solidly attached to the actuator. What I noticed, was that the actuator was not pulling the cable far enough to activate the release mechanism at the top of the tailgate. I immediately thought that I might have to replace a 'weak' actuator, but I thoroughly lubricated all moving parts in the entire assembly with an all-purpose spray lube, and everything returned to normal!!

 

[bbyer]

That is good news - that your actuator works now; guess it was getting tired.

You might want to install a manual release something like I did so when it finally gives out, you have options.

The link below shows how I did it.

With your experience pulling the covers off, it would not take you too much time to install a manual release. The hard part is figuring out how to clamp the release cable to the main release cable. My lead fishing weight is not really the best solution but was all I could figure out.

Some guys have used screw type electrical wire connectors with some success.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4155

 

[roverca]

This happened on my LR3. I didn't fix it myself. The body shop tried and failed but a local Rover shop fixed it by replacing the actuator. They over charged me I'm sure of it. Premier Rover in San Diego stay away.

 

[bbyer]

This happened on my LR3. I didn't fix it myself. The body shop tried and failed but a local Rover shop fixed it by replacing the actuator. They over charged me I'm sure of it. Premier Rover in San Diego stay away.

If they did not break anything, they did not overcharge you.

Knowledge is what costs, but parts are often even more, and when they are across a continent and then an ocean, they get really expensive.

I note that you said the body shop failed, so I would say your dealer did well. Getting at the actuator when all is closed up is tough to do; hence installing some form of manual release has some merit and at worst, can save you time and money.

 

[toddjb122]

OK, so a happy ending to my tale!

Every once in awhile, the tailgate would open.
So...I jumped on the opportunity to take it apart without having to deal with PITA of accessing the actuator from inside the Rover...
but I thoroughly lubricated all moving parts in the entire assembly with an all-purpose spray lube, and everything returned to normal!!

Now that you know how to take it apart, why don't you just replace that little puller "L" with a loop of cable permanently attached and crimped in place.

After two failures on my LR3 rear hatch, I made the change and never had an issue again.

 

[djatkinson]

Actually, mine didn't have that crummy, plastic little 'L'. Maybe it was the updated version? However, as a precaution, I did follow the advice of a video I saw on UTube, and used zip-ties to secure the end of the cable into the socket where it rests.
I still like bbyers' idea of going back in and fabricating an emergency cable...just in case. It's so much easier to address this issue with the talegate down!! ;-))