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To buy or not to buy...

Discussion in 'LR3' started by shireman7, Aug 30, 2020.

Car Parts
  1. shireman7

    shireman7 New Member

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    I have dreamed of day I would make this post but instead of going into sappy details I'll cut to the chase. 2008 LR3 HSE 150k with great service records. What should I look out for? Is the milage too high and should I keep waiting?
     
  2. remember5

    remember5 Full Access Member

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    I don't see the price listed. Miles seem to be what determines the price on carfax.com. I wouldn't be scared of 150k.
     
    SkyTree and shireman7 like this.
  3. shireman7

    shireman7 New Member

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    It's listed at $9k, I feel like I could get it for $8k
     
  4. Houm_WA

    Houm_WA Full Access Member

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    I would be looking at the service history.

    Lots of work should have done at 150k, one of which is not stated in the maintenance manual.

    Spark plugs and injectors around 100k
    Tranny fluid at 100k (not stated)
    Diff oil 2 or 3x over by now

    Look at the front diff breather - that will inform you how informed the PO was. Bushings, EAS Compressor. Was the coolant bleeder replaced or by-passed?

    This could be a good rig and $9k isn't unreasonable, just look for the usual suspects!
     
  5. douglastic

    douglastic Full Access Member

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    what part of the country? Dry = fewer problems

    Look for signs of water ingress
     
  6. MATT MEADER

    MATT MEADER New Member

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    I have a 2008 LR3 HSE with 150k that I bought new. It still runs great and I have no plans on changing it. As others have said, any car needs some serious maintenance between 100k-150k. Outside of the normal things, suspension air leaks. Have all four been replaced? Has the compressor been replaced? If you lower the Laddy, does it come right back up? You can disconnect the battery for a couple days, if one wheel sinks lower than the others, you know you have a leak. The coolant bladder and connectors should have been replaced. The plastic would have degraded and it's a time bomb for getting stuck and overheating. I've had water leaks from the sunroof down the frame. The drains need to be replaced and/or cleaned out. Have the bushings and control arms been replaced? If it's been off-road, like it should have been, those will be worn.
     
  7. ggrupea

    ggrupea Active Member

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    Hi, I have an LR3 V6 4.0 HSE 2007, with 273.000 kms (like 169.634 miles) and runs great. You just have to check engine and tipical mechanical issues. If all of it is good, just go for it if you feel comfortable
     
  8. Gov na

    Gov na Member

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    Yerp, pretty much what everyone else said, check the records and those items mentioned and if you are comfortable with it, buy it. I have had my 007 LR3 SE for almost 10 years and it has served me well, the only time I had a breakdown was the coolant bleeder valve, (stupid plastic piece that they thought should be used as a critical part). Regular maintenance is a no brain'er, DISCO ROCKS!
     
  9. maxx4wd

    maxx4wd Full Access Member

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    I'll add one other often overlooked item to the need to check list at 150K - seems like a lot of landy owners at this mileage / age start to see degradation of the rubber carriage bearings on the rear driveshaft...I had to replace mine last month after a few like minded guys did the same. Unfortunately you can't really service just the carriage bearing so it's a whole new drive shaft (unless you really like opening up and hacking it to pieces. Front D/S seem to fair better. other than the usual items always check the LCAs - especially the fronts but they've probably been replaced 2x over by 150K...Bearings are common between 100-150k. Rebuilding air block valves is common (or just swapping in new valves - but the o-ring replacement is super simple). BTW just get rid of the coolant bleeder valve..insert a brass extension and never think of it again, really does nothing for the system...you can still bleed it just fine (just takes a wee bit longer).
     
  10. Houm_WA

    Houm_WA Full Access Member

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    idk how much a brass extension costs but a brass bleeder is relatively inexpensive. I think Falconworks sells one for around fifty bucks.
     

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