Ton of faults after an aftermarket subwoofer was installed (SOLVED)

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Jimmy Brooks

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Well had a subwoofer put in and got the car back early this afternoon and everything was great, until I got on the freeway. After going over 45 mph the every light on the dash came on (stability control, ABS, parking brake, cruise control, suspension, transmission etc.) I’m not too familiar with electronics on these cars but I do know that any thing below 14V will cause the electronics go insane. Any ideas on what I should do? Here are the codes.

FB8DA10E-61A1-4CA7-B47A-8BCF8260999C.png


A6A9D4BF-5AD0-4CB7-853E-1A27948974A0.png


EBE994BC-B4B2-4523-80E2-F7DFBBEBA89F.png


BE5996AE-DB15-492E-8B07-9826578DFCE2.png
 

El Solis

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Don’t know if this is the answer but the stereo canbus system is tied into a bunch of car control stuff. Has something to do with safety, decreasing volume when backing up etc. The subwoofer install may have messed that up or worse they cut the canbus during the install [emoji51]


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PaulLR3

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This is the exact reason that there have been so few attempts to change/upgrade the LR3/LR4 stereo systems over the last 16 years.
 

jlglr4

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First thing, if you haven’t already, is just clear the codes and see what comes back. They might have set codes during install that need to be cleared.

Just a subwoofer installed, or other components as well?

Also, notify the installer right away - don’t wait.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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I did this and they came right back on as soon as I went over 45. The only aftermarket items connected to the battery are the subwoofer and a light bar. Assuming that the instal shop didn’t already do it, I’m thinking that I need to add a power block between the battery and the sub so it doesn’t take as many volts from the car.
First thing, if you haven’t already, is just clear the codes and see what comes back. They might have set codes during install that need to be cleared.

Just a subwoofer installed, or other components as well?

Also, notify the installer right away - don’t wait.
 

greiswig

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More info might be helpful. I’m assuming this is an active sub, but if not, I can’t imagine they’re related unless the new voice coil might have too low an impedance for the stock amp.

if active, where did they pull power from for the amp?
 

Jimmy Brooks

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the sub is self amplified and routed into the original sound system. Bigger issue is that now even with the sub completely disconnected from the battery it still throws these faults after clearing.
More info might be helpful. I’m assuming this is an active sub, but if not, I can’t imagine they’re related unless the new voice coil might have too low an impedance for the stock amp.

if active, where did they pull power from for the amp?
 

Michael Gain

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Hmmm. It depends on the install. I would explore every place they could have touched. If they installed the sub in the rear hatch, I would pull the panel and check out the other harnesses. If they pulled the center console (I'm sure they did), I would check the EPB switch and all the random modules underneath the shifter / cup holder. If they ran the wire along the driver side scuff plate and under the drivers knee panel, I would pull that panel and inspect the gateway module and other harnesses under there.

They also were under the hood to hook up 12v power. I would trace whatever lead they installed and make sure they didn't knock anything loose / forget to reconnect something. Depending on which side battery box they used to feed the positive wire into the passenger compartment, there a host of issues they could create.

Could be an honest mistake by the shop. Likewise, it could be a huge coincidence and unrelated.
 

jlglr4

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Is the brake switch still throwing a “P” code? That seems to be the only “P” code listed, so that might be a place to start. Maybe the brake switch is shorted so that its always “on”?
 

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