tool/trick to remove wires from fuse block?

[matthewmagsino]

mice chewed through a couple wires and bared a handfull under the engine fuse block. plan was pull wires from block, repair, reinstall - no fun but doable. two types of connectors, and i haven't figures out how to release either kind. did LR really intend this as a replacement (only) fix? if so, anyone want to sell a fuse block w/ harness connectors?

 

[doc5339]

Hate to read that; rodents are the worst!

If worse comes to worst, you could cut the wires around the damage, slide-on shrink-insulation, linesman splice with flux/solder, heat-shrink the insulation on and never have to remove the terminal ends from the fuse block. This suggestion might be more work, but should be effective.

A GM tech I know used a similar method in hard to reach areas without even doing a linesman splice. He would just use a long piece of solder to fuse the wires, then insulate at the very hard to reach locations.

If you really want to remove the connectors, maybe lube them up with dielectric grease or speaker wire cleaner, then use small needle nose to pull from the connectors-out (if you have not already tried this).

 

[matthewmagsino]

it can be repaired...

solution:

https://disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/22465/LA414-001_-_Technical_Bulletin_-_Battery_Junction_Box_Connections.pdf

no special tool required - jewler's screwdriver or similar small blade needed to release detent; pay attention to the notes about orientation when reinserting - or detent will not engage.

PIA - but doable; IMO easier than replacing box & harness.

A lot of worthless (harness cut-off) boxes are available on eBay - don't buy one. GoldwingRover.com pulls the harness w/ the box - great source for any/all parts @ VG prices.

 

[kels83]

Lots of pin removal tools on amazon and ebay. It's basically a short piece of metal that slides in to press the detent down and the terminal should slide right out.

I like to replace the terminal rather than splicing into wires. Makes for a longer-lasting connection. In my experience with both Landy's and classic cars, you can usually find enough extra wire in the harness if you unwrap the wire protectors. Then call Mouser electronics to source brand new terminals from Aptiv that keep your rig in OEM condition Amazon has some great Aptiv/Delphi crimper tools that will replicate the factory crimp. once the new terminal is on the wire, slide the new terminal back in and wrap the harness back up.

Land Rover uses Tesa 51026 electrical tape, which is about $9 for a huge role on Amazon. It's cloth tape with much better adhesive that doesn't turn gunky in the heat.

 

[HarryO]

If it’s only the insulation that’s damaged then it’s an easy clean and re-insulate using a couple of coats of brush on liquid insulation tape.

If the copper is damaged then cut & replace..