Transmission - Mechatronic Valve Body Sleeve (TZV500010) replacement - help!

[Longtrail]

Hi Team, per my other thread I'm in the middle of replacing the transmission fluid on the 6HP28 unit (2012 LR4 - 102K miles). I purchased a new mechatronic valve body sleeve but now I'm seriously questioning if I should replace the existing sleeve (it's not leaking (currently))? I'm really concerned that once I've removed the wiring harness (by rotating the outer ring from 5pm to about 1pm) that I'm never going to get it back in again... I can barely see the sleeve let alone get my hands up there and I'm wondering what magic others have performed to access the sleeve? There are a bunch of pipes, wires and cables in the way, so in the following image it's somewhere behind this "mess":

In this image we can see it:

Is it a question of undoing the metal bracket and trying to push things out the way, do the pipes move? Any help greatly received! Thanks.

 

[alldazed]

FWIW I did this on a 2011 RRS so same transmission and very similar underneath. As per one of your previous posts I also undid the main support bolt at the rear of the transmission to create more access to the pan bolts. I also used that same thought process to lower the transmission carefully as much as I thought safe or it bottomed out on something- I can’t remember as it was a few years ago. I do remember having to largely do it by braille as it is extremely difficult to see what is going on. I poked my borescope up to get a picture in my mind of it and if I couldn’t get my hand on things I used a small -6 inch- pry bar to help and used the borescope to see what was going on. I was very hesitant to do it but I think from recollection once that retainer was off the rest wasn’t any harder. I had it raised up in off road height sitting on 4 ramps. I had previously done a 3 series bmw with the zf6 hp trans in and I’m sure the instructions that came with that said to run it through the gears with foot on the brake which is what I did on the RR too.
Good luck.

 

[Al Pizzica]

I was worried about this as well when I did this on my 2013 ZF6 but it goes in and out much easier than I thought, despite the restricted access. You will be able to get it in and out, have faith.

 

[Al Pizzica]

Also, that tab holding the metal line in your first pic, you can just bend it out, move stuff out of the way to get your hand in there IIRC.

 

[Longtrail]

FWIW I did this on a 2011 RRS so same transmission and very similar underneath. As per one of your previous posts I also undid the main support bolt at the rear of the transmission to create more access to the pan bolts. I also used that same thought process to lower the transmission carefully as much as I thought safe or it bottomed out on something- I can’t remember as it was a few years ago. I do remember having to largely do it by braille as it is extremely difficult to see what is going on. I poked my borescope up to get a picture in my mind of it and if I couldn’t get my hand on things I used a small -6 inch- pry bar to help and used the borescope to see what was going on. I was very hesitant to do it but I think from recollection once that retainer was off the rest wasn’t any harder. I had it raised up in off road height sitting on 4 ramps. I had previously done a 3 series bmw with the zf6 hp trans in and I’m sure the instructions that came with that said to run it through the gears with foot on the brake which is what I did on the RR too.
Good luck.

Thank you so much, my confidence has gone up . I didn't do any more this weekend and decided to work on other things instead! When you ran the transmission through the gears I'm assuming the wheels were off the ground? I found as posted in my other thread that I can only select 1st and 2nd gears. Curious how you did this?

 

[Longtrail]

Also, that tab holding the metal line in your first pic, you can just bend it out, move stuff out of the way to get your hand in there IIRC.

Thank you also, I assume you mean this metal tab? If I recall this looks to be the wire for the O2 sensor:

I was also wondering if this this one buys me some room:

What I'm hearing is this looks worse then it is; how many pints of blood should I expect to lose ... My 9 year old has small hands!...

 

[CRYA]

I did my fluid at around the same mileage as you. Based on many other voices in the pan swap thread, I did NOT touch that thing.

 

[alldazed]

Thank you so much, my confidence has gone up . I didn't do any more this weekend and decided to work on other things instead! When you ran the transmission through the gears I'm assuming the wheels were off the ground? I found as posted in my other thread that I can only select 1st and 2nd gears. Curious how you did this?

I was starting to doubt myself but you don’t need to let the wheels turn which is why I did it on ramps which also keeps it level. If you go to roverparts.com aka Atlantic British watch their video on transmission fluid replacement on at the 23 minute mark he explains doing your initial few bottles then starting it with your foot on the brake and keeping it on the brake while you run through prnd. It is the same if you want more confirmation on the bmw zf refill procedure. A couple of them use the paddles to go to gear 2 or 3 but it won’t let them go through all the gears there either. They all have their foot on the brake too.
It warms up fairly quickly so after running through the gears left it in park and went back under it and used my IR thermometer to monitor the temperature and out the rest of the fluid. Both times I’ve done it, once on the bmw with the plastic fill pan and once on the RR with the AB metal pan conversion I’ve used 6.5 litres of fluid which from memory was what the spec’s called for which gave me further confirmation that the refill procedure was correct and that the capacity hasn’t changed with the different pan. Hope that helps.

 

[txfromwi]

I just finished my video for the 2013 and now I have computer problems so I cannot post it...
Probably until I can get a new computer and transition over....
Anyway...

Until I can get my 2013 Rover specific video up there, the reference videos to be watching are in Aston Martin Land and are awesome.
Google on "Aston1936".


I gave up and did not replace the sleeve. I saw no reasonable way to remove it, although I can envision a few ways to get it out...

More importantly than getting it out would be getting the new one back in. I see no way to make installing the new one a reality.
We do not have the pry point that Aston1936 uses for his sleeve install.


I aborted the sleeve and the mechatronic seals portion of the project and completed the pan, filter, flush.

I have proven that the steel pan and the plastic pan contain the exact same volumes - at least within our abilities to measure.
Fill using the side port on the transmission as per standard procedures.

 

[CPalacay]

The mechatronic sleeve is actually not that bad. With the valve body removed (I did a fully service on it), you can slide the mechtronic sleeve into place to get a feel for how much pressure is required to get it seated. To help with proper alignment, I kept the valve body finger tight and torqued it down after the sleeve was fully seated.

This video helps go through the entire process:

Good luck, we have faith in you!