Unexpected LR4 project

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steevo

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I just moved over from the LR3 world into the LR4. I Got a "deal" on a 2014 LR4 HSE LUX that had been in a front end collision, still running and driving. Well, that deal turned out to be not-a-deal. As I was removing broken accessories and radiator bits I found this:
IMG_20230129_102032707_HDR.jpg


I'd like to say I bought it sight unseen, but in fact I actually saw it in person, started it, moved it forwards & backwards, yet totally managed to miss the gaping HOLE in the BLOCK! Well its mine now, so I figure the only way out is to fix it and drive it for a long time to avoid taking a huge loss. The bonus is I got a good look at the timing chains & guides with virtually no labor...
 

steevo

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Naturally I started looking at sourcing a good used engine, and quickly found out they are made of gold based on the cost of them. At that point, I had already decided I wasn't going to flip this vehicle, so let's have some fun with it. I did what anyone (really, almost no one actually) would do next and patch the block.

Based on the location of the damage, the fact that it runs great, and passes a leakdown test & block test, the damage doesn't seem to be terminal. Looks like that part of the block is really more of a "timing chain cover" with no coolant passages. I guess all I need to do is keep it from gushing oil, and keep dirt & debris out of it.

vlcsnap-2023-02-20-15h25m51s352.png


Admit it, you all saw this coming...JB Weld & steel soup can to the rescue!

Now all of you smart LR4 guys already know what I was about to learn...there are 2 threaded bosses on the block right there that the tensioner pulley bracket mounts to. Ok not great, but luckily the lower 2 bolt holes are still good so I can locate the bracket in the stock location and fabricate a new mount out of some flat stock I have been carrying around for 2 moves now.

Luckily, there are 2 decent mounting points: one right under the oil filter housing and one on the upper timing cover
IMG_20230122_100159212_HDR~2.jpg

1/4" flat stock cut to shape with bushings & washers to get the spacing correct did the trick. There's not a lot of space between my new mount and the belt, so I had to countersink the bolt that goes into the upper timing cover.
IMG_20230211_164637496_HDR.jpg

IMG_20230211_164627289_HDR.jpg
 

steevo

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Ok, so belts are back on and radiator replaced. I still found about a dozen leaks when pressure testing the system because when the fan shattered it basically turned into fragmentation that punctured almost every hose. The LR4 hoses are all apparently very special and no parts store carries them of course. Mainly because LR sells them as huge hose assemblies, even though they are clearly a collection of smaller not-special hoses connected by plastic tees and ells.

In keeping with the theme of this build (if you can call it that), I cobbled together the hoses using readily available auto parts store stuff. In case anyone ever gets stranded far away from a LR dealer, I'm leaving the following stuff below:

- For LR013693, which goes from the reservoir down across the bottom of the fan shroud, you can re-create that with a couple feet of 5/8" heater hose and however many Dorman 5/8" straight heater hose connectors. There is also one 5/8" tee connector in that line.

- From the front mounted intercooler to the aux water pump is 3/4" hose

- Upper radiator hose from the outlet to the funky "y" connector is "approximately" 1.5" hose with a 90* bend. It's actually ~1.38" at the radiator and ~1.62" at the "Y" (why, Land Rover, why?) Gates #21794, which has a pre-formed 90* will replace this hose.

- Plastic bleed screws are Dorman 902-404; they are M10x1.0 thread if you had to cap off a bleed port with a bolt in an emergency

Then there's this guy:
IMG_20230130_175829947_HDR.jpg
Don't faff around with this thing, just replace it now with one of these if you plan to go into the wilderness, since there is no common parts store workaround. It's like $9 on eBay:
s-l1600.jpg

That's pretty much where I am now, waiting for this last piece so I can pull a vacuum on the cooling system and fill it up. I have started the engine to make sure the belts all line up and there are no issues! (except for low coolant warning, of course). I'll post updates as I make progress on this thing.
 

Nechaken

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It is 100% possible to weld on these blocks.

I would be looking a for a skilled welder who works on aluminum to fab something up more durable that a soup can.

But, speaking as someone who has made emergency repairs to his overheating Porsche with a Wal-Mart toilet repair kit, nice work.

C'mon, you can't just say that and not tell the story!
 

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