gsxr
Full Access Member
USA-spec 2010 LR4 with 5.0L V8 engine, 160kmi. No prior issues with fuel system.
Truck died about 4 miles from our house after a cold start, about 4 minutes driving time. Would not restart, just cranked at normal speed, coughed and sputtered, but would not stay running. Towed home and now I'm trying to troubleshoot / diagnose with GAP IID tool.
Code reported is: P0627-00 (6C) Fuel pump A control circuit/open
After sitting overnight (might only need 4-8 hours of sitting?) the engine will start normally, but after 3.5-4.5 minutes the engine just shuts off, and will not restart. Each time, the ONLY fault code stored is P0627-00. Clear the code, it returns after the next time the engine is started & dies ~4 mins later. Tried swapping the fuel pump relay, there was no change.
Studying the factory manual (section 310-01D) it looks like the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) is a fancy relay/controller for the pump, but it doesn't appear the FPDM is a common failure. The internets have almost zero information about code P0627 related to JLR engines. Guess I'm just lucky to have the oddball code. And for the handful of internet mentions for this code, there are almost no follow-up posts with the root cause & details about what components needed to be replaced / repaired to fix it!
The fuel pump assembly, or possibly the fuel tank flange which appears to have a "pass through" electrical connector, seem like the likely culprits. I hate to drop the fuel tank if this isn't the problem. And I'll be even crankier if I replace the pump/flange/etc and that doesn't fix the problem.
Related question, the OE/dealer pump part # LR043385 is $450-$475 from online discount dealerships. The Conti/VDO pump for $275-$300 is allegedly OEM and made in Czech Republic - does anyone have experience with the VDO pump? I know enough to avoid ÜRO pumps like the plague, I don't want to repeat the job in six months, lol.
Just had our first snow here in Billings, and of course the LR4 is our only 4WD/AWD vehicle, so I'd like to get this running again soon-ish. Especially since there are brand-new Blizzaks ready to bolt on when it runs again. Oh, bonus info, the nearest Land Rover dealership is a 10 hour drive away... not an option to bring the truck to the dealer, and I don't trust any local indy shop to do anything I can't do (although it might take me 4x longer, lol).
Anyone BT, DT or have relevant information to share? @Rover Range - have you ever seen this particular code?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Truck died about 4 miles from our house after a cold start, about 4 minutes driving time. Would not restart, just cranked at normal speed, coughed and sputtered, but would not stay running. Towed home and now I'm trying to troubleshoot / diagnose with GAP IID tool.
Code reported is: P0627-00 (6C) Fuel pump A control circuit/open
After sitting overnight (might only need 4-8 hours of sitting?) the engine will start normally, but after 3.5-4.5 minutes the engine just shuts off, and will not restart. Each time, the ONLY fault code stored is P0627-00. Clear the code, it returns after the next time the engine is started & dies ~4 mins later. Tried swapping the fuel pump relay, there was no change.
Studying the factory manual (section 310-01D) it looks like the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) is a fancy relay/controller for the pump, but it doesn't appear the FPDM is a common failure. The internets have almost zero information about code P0627 related to JLR engines. Guess I'm just lucky to have the oddball code. And for the handful of internet mentions for this code, there are almost no follow-up posts with the root cause & details about what components needed to be replaced / repaired to fix it!
The fuel pump assembly, or possibly the fuel tank flange which appears to have a "pass through" electrical connector, seem like the likely culprits. I hate to drop the fuel tank if this isn't the problem. And I'll be even crankier if I replace the pump/flange/etc and that doesn't fix the problem.
Related question, the OE/dealer pump part # LR043385 is $450-$475 from online discount dealerships. The Conti/VDO pump for $275-$300 is allegedly OEM and made in Czech Republic - does anyone have experience with the VDO pump? I know enough to avoid ÜRO pumps like the plague, I don't want to repeat the job in six months, lol.
Just had our first snow here in Billings, and of course the LR4 is our only 4WD/AWD vehicle, so I'd like to get this running again soon-ish. Especially since there are brand-new Blizzaks ready to bolt on when it runs again. Oh, bonus info, the nearest Land Rover dealership is a 10 hour drive away... not an option to bring the truck to the dealer, and I don't trust any local indy shop to do anything I can't do (although it might take me 4x longer, lol).
Anyone BT, DT or have relevant information to share? @Rover Range - have you ever seen this particular code?
Thanks in advance for any advice!