Voltmeter / USB charge port install

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TCM75

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I wanted to share my success in installing a voltmeter and USB charge ports in place of the passenger side 12V socket. In the end, I am very pleased with the result and it’s interesting to see what the voltage is doing.

It was a little more involved than I thought it would be, as it required removal of the center console, but I still managed to get it done in under an hour without my wife realizing I was in the garage, lol.

Total cost was about $50, but about $30 of that is in part to the Audi 12V dummy plug that I just “had to have”. I think the whole combo just works.

If there is additional interest I can post more photos and notes.

27562421-E708-4F29-BC9D-5956156D9BF2.jpeg
 

mrezo

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@TCM75. I was looking to do this very thing.

I have a 2011 LR4 and the console looks slightly different but any pictures/instructions would be appreciated.
 

DaJammer

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Very clean, and who doesn't need another gizmo in the cockpit relaying voltage? I too would be interested in any part numbers of buy items, along with any additional photos and instructions for this mod.
 

Pfunk951

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x3 on that, what a great use for the plug! This looks like a great Saturday morning job..

Well done!

Mike
 

TCM75

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Okay, here we go.

Tools

Gather some tools: Philips screwdriver, torx bits, small wire cutter/nippers, and slip-jaw pliers, dremel or similar tool with small sanding drum wheel.


Parts

As far as parts go, this is the charger/voltmeter that I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NCMTQL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I bought it less than a month ago and already don't see the green LED option. There are several different "brands" although I'm sure they are all imported and made in the same factory. I went with the green LED to match the backlit buttons although red may also look nice as well. More on this later.

If interested in the AUDI 12V dummy plug, I have since found cheaper options than the ~$30 that I paid.

https://www.ebay.com/i/262907245801?chn=ps


Lastly, if the display is too bright (it was for me), I found these gems that I never knew existed. It may be that other types of LED displays are darker and don't need it but I did find my original display quite bright. With one of these stickers darkening the display the intensity is on par with the interior lighting.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZBBITE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Disassembly


I first researched how to take apart the center console without breaking it and came across this youtube video:


Keep in mind this is for the pre-2014 (V8) vehicles and I could not find anything for my SCV6. So I proceeded carefully based on the information available. The only thing different from the video for the later vehicles is that the plastic trim cover on the front side of the center arm rest/compartment needs to be removed before the console will come out. It just needs a good tug upwards. See photo below:

1.jpg



After this piece comes out and you carefully remove the center console, unplug the wiring harnesses (there were two or three) so you can freely remove the console from the vehicle. It is much easier to work on it out of the car. <<Side note: I was impressed with the quality of materials. Considering the lower center console component is not that large, there was a fair amount of heft to it and I would estimate the weight at around 5 pounds. Check out the nice die-cast aluminum gear selector housing. Nice work JLR!>> Small photo below for your viewing pleasure:

10.jpg




Once you have the console assembly out, you will want to remove the control panel that houses the terrain control and suspension adjust switches. There are four torx screws, however you may need to be creative in order to access the screws. A wobble-bit or flex-drive will help. You can see two of the screws in the photo below (see blue arrows). Also note that I removed the connector that was mounted on a piece of plastic, visible near the top of the photo in order to gain access to a screw. During reassembly I put a piece of rubber in between the two and zip-tied it together because those little finned plastic "push-in" pieces are only good the first time and I don't very much care for squeaks (especially if it was my doing!).

8.jpg


Note - I originally intended to locate the charger/voltmeter on the driver side but decided to use the passenger side for two reasons: 1) The illuminated ring on the driver's side presented an additional challenge with a third wire, and 2) the driver's side wires for the 12V socket would need to be extended if I relocated it to the passenger side because of the third wire.

Now, take your small wire cutters and cut off the plastic orange connector. You need to snip a little piece off here and there and eventually it will just fall apart and you will have the typical female connectors that will slip right over the spade connectors on the back of your new charger/voltmeter...but first, you need to remove the factory socket. Looking at the back side of the console, there are two little tabs on opposing sides of the 12V socket. You need to squeeze these inwards and simultaneously push the socket out of the hole. If you were sitting in the assembled vehicle, the socket would need to come up towards you. The picture below is after-the-fact, but you can see the black plastic sleeve and the little black tabs that need to be squeezed.

6b.jpg


Trimming

I almost forgot about this step. Unfortunately I don't have a picture but it is very straightforward if you have a dremel tool with a small sander (approx 1/2" diameter). Once the factory 12V socket is out of the console you will see a hole that, for whatever reason, is circular except for one area where there is a flat that intrudes on the nominal diameter of the hole. You will need to remove this flat with the sander and make a perfect circle. It is the aluminum substrate of the console which may be around 1/16" but it still only took several passes or about 10 seconds of actual sanding time.


Installation

Even though the below image should be rotated 90 degrees to the left, this shows the new charger/voltmeter with wires attached. The charger/voltmeter comes with a hinged plastic cap. I chose not to install it because it seemed it would get in the way. If you want to install it, don't forget to slip the ring part of the cap through the charger/voltmeter before you pass it through the console hole. I ended up cutting the cap off it's plastic hinge so I can still insert it if I want. Whatever you decide, you will realize there is not a whole lot of room (I was getting nervous) on the underside. Since there is minimal space behind the panel, place the backing nut on the inside of panel, and insert the charger/voltmeter and spin this part until snug. You can then tighten the nut the rest of the way once satisfied that your charger/voltmeter is in the correct orientation.

You can see below just how little space there is once the terrain control panel is back in place. Slip on the connectors and tidy up whatever else you want and you are good to go. Re-assemble in reverse order and don't forget to plug in all wiring harnesses!

8b.jpg
 

DaJammer

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Great pictures and write up. Appreciate you taking the time and sharing this mod with the community. Definitely on my to do list.
 

Pfunk951

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Well done, and thanks..

During the teardown, I plan on figuring out what plastic part is squeaking in my gear selector..

Mike
 

Pfunk951

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TCM95- Thanks again for the guidance, I just finished this on my 2012.

console.jpg

It looks fantastic, but I noticed there are some differences in the interior panel architecture for the "gear lever" consoles that I had to modify to get things to lay flat/fit.. There is hidden interference where the screw on ring goes on, and the hole needs to be enlarged and move about .075" up and to the right..

If you don't mind, I'd like to drop a couple of pics here to show what I had to modify- it should save the folks with gear levers some time.

Thanks again,

Mike
 
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