Water pump replaced, still leaking coolant

jlglr4

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If you’ve never replaced the PCV, it should be replaced. Probably every 50-75K. They get stiff and will occasionally tear leading to a lean condition/code. A lot of people use the cheap diaphragms off ebay, or you can get them at the parts counter at the dealer for about $30. The cap tabs will probably break, but the diaphragm and cap comes as a kit. Just be careful not to break the little nubs on the valve cover itself that grab the cap.

But - you’ll still get oil into the intake. It’s just an ineffective design. There are oil baffles inside the valve covers - they just don’t work all that well.

Yes, you could put off the throttle body I think. They’re probably not cheap - maybe $250-350 I’m guessing. I’d just check it once in a while and see if you see any coolant residue.
 

jlglr4

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Hey - one more thought. I know the oil cooler pipe was just replaced, but you might take a look and make sure there’s no leak remaining (residue on the pipe maybe?). I mention it only because another member on this forum just did his water pump/cooler pipe and still had a leak - turns out the o-ring that seals the pipe got mashed up or twisted somehow during installation.
 

Mozambique

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Ahhhhh......... now I see where the oil cooler pipe sits. Unfortunately wet down there from coolant loss when I removed the crossover pipe. No obvs signs that its leaking. Will bear that in mind if leak persists after I put everything back together
 

Mozambique

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So everything back together and car started no problem!
However I am having a hell of a time trying to bleed the system. Did not add coolant to front crossover pipe via bleed valve = mistake. Did raise front hose off crossover and added as much coolant as I could before reconnecting.
Have expansion tank bleed valve open and the one on the metal pipe near battery. Engine warm and heater on. Blowing semi warm. Bleed ***** by battery is hissing like a steam train. Expansion tank bleed ***** hissing with coolant occasionally coming out so keep opening it and closing it.
Engine temp keeps rising scarily high, so I shut off and cycle repeats. Been at it 2hrs. Obvs air still in system but taking forever to clear.
Thoughts???
Need to keep at it or am I doing something wrong?
Coolant level in expansion tank was near top of cap (due to air in system), now an inch above upperfill level so seem to have vented some air.
 

gsxr

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Any chance you can buy a vacuum filler for cooling systems? Seems this is the most foolproof method to fill the LR4 system. Bleeding through the various *****/ports seems to be a RPITA.

:help:
 

djkaosone

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Hope you got everything sorted.

Whenever you have cooling issues, like a cracked crossover pipe, I tell people that it's the first sign of things to come. Plastic becomes brittle over time. It's just a matter of time when the rest of the Plastic pieces start to fail after the first one.

I highly recommend changing everything yourself with oem parts.

Here's what I posted for someone else that's going through the same thing... I'm sure you'll find better pricing if you shopped around.

ALL OEM Parts!!
Water pump ($200) - https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/RV-LR097165
Water pump gasket ($26 ea, 2x) - https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/LR049370
Oil cooler tube ($25) - https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/RV-LR028136
Front crossover pipe ($71) - https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/GN-LR018275
Rear crossover pipe ($127) - https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/RV-LR109402
Thermostat ($97) - https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/RV-LR032135
Coolant ($28 ea, 2x) - https://www.fcpeuro.com/.../land-rover-engine-coolant...
BMW brass bleeder ***** ($4) - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/coolant-bleeder-*****-on-expansion-tank-brass-17111712788b

Water pump $200
Water pump gaskets $62
Oil cooler tube $25
Front crossover tube $71
Rear crossover tube $127
Thermostat $97
2 gallons of coolant $56
Brass bleeder ***** $4
= Total $642

Weird that it won't let me type out s c r e w, substitute ***** with s c r e w (no spaces).
Knowing you won't be stuck on the side of the road, because of overheating, priceless! You’ll also be good for another 100k+ miles.

FCPeuro.com has lifetime warranty and may have better pricing on certain parts.
 
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gsxr

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If there were forum admins present (I've never seen one here), it would REALLY be nice to have the forum settings changed to not block the word "s c r e w" and change it to asterisks as in the post above. What is this, elementary school?

:motz:
 

djkaosone

'11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8
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If there were forum admins present (I've never seen one here), it would REALLY be nice to have the forum settings changed to not block the word "s c r e w" and change it to asterisks as in the post above. What is this, elementary school?

:motz:
Right, of all words s c r e w is bad? I'm *******, s c r e w e d. Well... luckily it did that, cause I found lots of broken links from me copying and pasting. All fixed now.
 

Shermie

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Check your Heater Core. I had a 2001 Freelander that leaked coolant for 5+ years and it was the Heater Core. The LR dealership never found the problem until one day I got so frustrated that I went under the Car and looked real hard. The telltale sign of a leaking Heater Core, if your vehicle uses Dexcool, the Heater Core and anything under it will have orange droplets encrusted on the core itself. This is if your Coolant leak has been ongoing for month's. A shot in the dark from a prior LR owner.
 

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