Yet Another problem.

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Militant-Grunt

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Today I was driving here and there doing some errands, from Manhattan to Queens from Queens to Brooklyn and then headed to Jones Beach in Long Island. Well in the city I did about 20 miles, and as i hit traffic somewhere half way on the way to jones beach the car just shut off. This happened when I was going about 5 mph bumper to bumper traffic. I quickly set the transmission to park and restart the engine and im on my way again. 5 minutes later traffic again.. same thing happens. So I proceed to do the same thing again. But this time as im shifting to D engine dies twice. On my third try I got it. So I was like ***. And i keep driving.. I stop at a toll both for the beach. And it happens AGAIN. I restart and keep going. When I parked at the beach parking lot I begin looking for odd noises or any suspucious looks on the engine it self. Nothing. But I decided to try something I Shifted into drive and i noticed that the Rev limited dropped from 600-500 to low 300-200-100 to almost 0 RPM. It seemed like the engine had trouble staying on. This didnt seem to happen in park mode. On my way back 3 hours later the problem disappeared. But after driving for an hour i noticed that the engine got load, almost a roar, and seemed a bit underpowered in the 1st -2nd gear. Do you guys have Any idea what this might be? Is it my transmission?
 
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Sergei

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Fuel filter changed how long ago? and air intake (filter & lines) cleaned how long ago? :)

usual suspects - air lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, AIC thingy dirty (stepper motor), alternator snuffing it, suffocating engine (crankcase breather clean?).

also can be dirty injectors, faulty plug, faulty wire, crappy petrol (which one u use?)
rare cause - fuel temp sensor
 

Militant-Grunt

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I use Premium gasoline 91 octane. I recently replaced the fuel pump but i am not sure if they replaced the fuel filter and the air intake. How would I check for this?

Btw this is a Disco I
 

Slam

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Did you mean air filter? That would be in the box on the right side when you open the hood. It has for latches and you can peek inside to see if it has been replaced. You might want to try a K&N air filter so you don't have to change it as often.

Fuel filter is a small canister behind the right rear passenger side tire. Just peek over the tire and you should be able to tell if it is new. Good luck.
 

RoverChic

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I am having the same problem with my 1998 D1 (75K miles). I went wheeling today, and then after a 100 mile drive I stopped off to run to the ladies room. Back on the road, and the rover will not start @ all. The rover will turn over, cranks, shakes, ZERO RPM, and then dies. This same pattern occurs about four times, when I decide that it's time to call Mike Jacobs. (who BTW is now # 2 on speed-dial in the old cell phone). He has me run back to the gas cap open and close, then put the ignition key in II (to make sure that the fuel pump was running). Rover will shake again, stutter, and finally it starts only after I pumped the gas (I know this is not a good thing). Mike saved the day..The rover finally started and I did make it home. I am going to replace the fuel filter and measure the pressure coming from the fuel pump. I agree with Mike --Its the fuel pump. So, Sergei where can I get a decent fuel pump? I have been quoted close to 600.00 for one. I think it is finally time to bid farewell to Henry. Thanks for any advice.
Melissa
 

Sergei

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Melissa tell the to sod off.. Call britishpacific.com they sell them for like 179$. Its about cheapest price for full assembly. If you feel adventurious you can buy pump only in most autostores (i can lookup part# if you like) for about 50$ and rebuild your old stuff. But imho - its easier to take whole thing.

Dont rush into pump replacing, b/c there are lots of other causes of nonstart. And they are typically cheaper.

First things to check - air lines. air filter, too much carbon around throttle butterfly thingy.. Dirty injectors, dirty plugs or faulty wires. Bad alternator and low battery will cause similar thing. VERY dirty t-piece section (one that goes to flame catcher on one end and to plenum and to crankcase on two others) can suffocate your engine very easy. Its very easy to clean.

So personally, i'd do next:
- check air filter.
- take section with MAF sensor off - clean it throughly
- clean butterfly plate and behind it as much as you can
- clean t-piece and attached tubing
- get crankcase breather off, clean and/or replace insides of filter (will cost you like 2$)
- check alternator & battery
- take out and clean all spark plugs (routine maintenance anyway - ought to do it once a month or two. Will prolong life of your engine, plugs and keep fuel economy up)
- clean IAC (stepper motor on side of plenum)
- check fuel filter (if you not sure. if it was replaced recently - ignore this)
- grab BG air induction cleaner or 3M induction cleaner (sorry. Seafoam seems to be snake oil to me - never got any good from it) - pour it into T-section so it will be sucked into both - flame catcher and into intake. If need i can make picture of it.

all stuff above is pretty cheap (roughly run you for like 25$) but then you can be sure that you got clean running truck. Then fuel pump is suspect :)

Another odd bit i found on AB site - fuel temp sensor may cause issues with running/starting in hot weather as well. This is what i am trying to check on mine presently. Part costs about 95$.. I'll let know if it will solve me issue.
 
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D

discomike

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Melissa,
This is #2 checking in, it was good to hear you made it home OK. Before you do anything with the truck, let it cool off over night and see what it does tomorrow, how does it start, idles, act under full power that sort os stuff then check in.
By the way, I forgot to ask how your wheeling went up around Tulsa?
Mike J.
 

RoverChic

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Thank You

Thank you for all the help Mike, Joey, and Sergei!!! I printed off the checklist Sergei that you provided. It just scared me because I did not want to be stranded @ a truck stop off I-44. The wheeling was WONDERFUL!!! Jason almost rolled his J*** on some rocks....We went to Chandler State Park.
I really appreciate all the help from the people on this Website !!! I do not know what I would do without your help!!
One last question .. I realize that the fuel pump is located within the fuel tank. Is this something I can do myself?? I really like my hair ..I would hate to singe it off with the de-pressurization of the fuel system.
Mel
 

Sergei

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Melissa that one is easy. Pull up carpet in rear and you will see fuel pump. Crank up engine, then remove fuse in engine compartment to cut off pump. When engine dies, remove key (just in case). Unhook "-" terminal. Open fuel tank cap.

Unhook electrical plug from pump. Unbolt (14mm or 9/16 SAE) two ends of piping that attached. Make sure to keep them clean - wrapping into small plastic or paper bits. Mark them just in case (one of them in, another is out).

Drop some paper towels around before disconnecting fuel leads - there will be some spillage. Make sure you in well wented area and not smoking :)

Then fun part is to remove red retatingi ring. You need to rotate it anti-clockwise. There is special tool, but i did it with pair of wise-grips on opposite sides of ring, and small breaker bar to turn them simulaneously.

Once damn thing is off - grab windex or something - clean it THROUGHLY around. There most likely will be lost of dirt and stuff surrounding pump. Once it all clean - you just pull it slowly up. Make sure to be carefull when working in there , b/c tank is actually made of plastic :)

Once its out - cover opened whole with something to prevent dirt and dust going in. Grab replacement. Put stupid resin ring in first. You can most likely reuse old one, or you can get one with kit when buying replacement. If you not putting it in first - its very hard to put it in later on :)

Then slowly (very) push new assembly into place. Tighten retainting ring. I did it pretty much hand tight, but then my hand-tight is quite different :) I have no clue on torque specs, but basically you just want to make sure its not gonna jump and wobble. Once its on, you can hook all stuff back (mind markings on in/out lines) and you should be good to go. But. Before putting carpeting in - make sure truck runs and there is no leakages. If there are some - you may need to use teflon tape to tighten plumbing & etc.

In general its about 40m-1.5h work, depending on how tight things are and how handy instruments are.
 

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