Solved - Which Motive Power Bleeder for LR4?

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DarthTrader

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2012 LR4 84,000 Miles

I just replaced my front brake calipers after noticing the brakes dragging a bit in stop-and-go traffic. Rear calipers were fine, but I changed the pads on all four wheels while I was at it.

Unfortunately, I learned a couple lessons the hard way.

First, don't let your 8-year old keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir while you're under the truck bleeding brakes, and second, the truck won't start without brake pressure in the system.

That's a good thing, but I was dumbfounded why it wouldn't start with a good battery. I read in another forum that the truck should start with zero-pressure in the lines. That might be true for a different model/model year, but I can say with certainty that my 2012 LR4 won't start without a minimum brake pressure in the lines.

Long story short, I bled the reservoir dry, and had tons of air all throughout the system, including the ABS.

I read good things about the Motive Power Bleeder system, but nobody said anywhere which model fit the LR4.

Answer? Get this one: $69.98 (Non-affiliate link below)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q6SL2W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Motive Products Power Bleeder #0109 - European- Black Label


The billet aluminum cap is a perfect fit for the '10 - '13 LR4 master cylinder reservoir. I can't say for other years.

Using the power bleeder took only about 45-minutes to completely purge all of the air from the system, but this also included an ABS purge cycle from my Gap IID tool.

Worked like a charm! The pedal feels like brand new.

I hope this helps somebody else!
 

gillygong

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Thanks for this. When you do the ABS procedure, do you also use the motive to pressurize the brake fluid reservoir?
 

gsxr

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The Motive pressure bleeder connects to the brake fluid reservoir, and pressurizes the brake/ABS system through the reservoir. There's no other connection to the brake/ABS system except the screw-on cap.
 

gillygong

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The Motive pressure bleeder connects to the brake fluid reservoir, and pressurizes the brake/ABS system through the reservoir. There's no other connection to the brake/ABS system except the screw-on cap.
Thanks for your reply. So that's a yes? For the ABS procedure, you would indeed have the motive attached and pressurized? Same as when bleeding each corner?
 

gsxr

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You may be overanalyzing the procedure. Here's a modified version of what @ktm525 posted a few years ago:

Step 1: Siphon old fluid out the master cylinder reservoir
Step 2: Refill master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid
Step 3: Fill pressure bleeder with new fluid, connect to master cylinder, pressurize to ~30psi max
Step 4: Start at the furthest wheel away from master cylinder (passenger rear)
Step 5: Using the Motive catch bottles, connect the bottle to the bleeder port on the caliper
Step 6: Open bleeder, extract 100-120mL from the caliper, close bleeder port
Step 7: Move to next caliper (driver rear, then passenger front, and last is driver front)
Step 8: Release pressure from the Motive before disconnecting!!
Step 9: Disconnect bleeder apparatus, adjust reservoir level as needed


Additional discussion in this thread:


I finally did this in September 2021, using a Speedi-Bleed pressure bleeder. Used 1 liter total of Pentosin SL-6 fluid, had zero issues with the bleeding process. Siphoned the reservoir and refilled with new fluid (about 400mL), then extracted 150mL from each wheel. This used the full 1 liter bottle of fluid.

:albertein
 

gillygong

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Good on all of that, but doesn't answer my question about the ABS procedure.. My understanding is you do the ABS thing using the GAP tool after bleeding all four corners.

So again, my question is, do you still pressurize the reservoir with the motive while doing the ABS procedure?
 

gsxr

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I may not be understanding the question. What is the "ABS Procedure"? I did not perform any GAP IID tool procedure before, during, or after. If referring to the "purge cycle" mentioned above, that is not necessary if only replacing brake fluid.

Now, if you have replaced any system components (master cylinder, etc) then additional steps may be required. I've never done this so I can't say for sure, but I'd leave the pressure bleeder connected while running any purge cycles via GAP IID.

@DarthTrader hasn't logged in for over a year, hopefully he'll see this and chime in....
 

Rover Range

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Good on all of that, but doesn't answer my question about the ABS procedure.. My understanding is you do the ABS thing using the GAP tool after bleeding all four corners.

So again, my question is, do you still pressurize the reservoir with the motive while doing the ABS procedure?
The reservoir needs to be pressurized when using the ABS pump bleeding procedure.
 

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