Ticking sound

Yes it's a 2006 SE, I just put a set of factor rock sliders on. It has an aftermarket in dash Pioneer but other than that everything else is stock and I always try to use genuine LR parts. Keeping my fingers crossed every day!

LR4s can apparently get to at least 300k kms. This one has: 308k kms (192k miles)

I had a 2004 Discovery (loved that car) with 120K miles that developed a very similar ticking sound. Would not tick when cold, only after it warmed up. Took it in to my local Land Rover dealership (Just kidding there is no such thing as a "local" LR dealership in the states. I have an hour and a half drive in either direction to get to one.) Unfortunately it was diagnosed as being fatal. Apparently the cylinder walls are lined with a sleeve and one of the sleeves had dislodged and was slowly sliding downward. I was told it was irreparable unless i wanted to replace the engine at about $10K +/-. I was also warned that I should consider not driving the vehicle long distances as after long distances the cylinders would naturally expand from the heat and encourage the sleeve to slide and at some point drop down far enough into the engine block and potentially blow out the bottom of the engine. I traded it in soon after that at a Mercedes dealership on a cold snowy winter day. By the time they got around to inspecting the car it had cooled enough and as it was still snowing slightly they weren't too interested in taking it for a test drive. They just started it up and listened for a few minutes. It purred like a kitten. Had a Mercedes for a year and traded that in for a Range Rover. It's good to be home!

Here's another video to add to the list. This is my 2011 LR4 with 78.5k miles.
LR dealer claims it the timing chain and tensioners.
Independent shop said that it was a little loud but nothing to be worried about. I took it back to to the indy shop for a trans service about a month later and he said that he took another listen and now also thinks its the timing chain and tensioners.

Thoughts?

That sound seems to be lower in the engine than the cam timing unit. Again I would use the long screwdriver/socket extension method to figure out where exactly it's coming from and go from there. I have zero experience with the 5.0 but the 4.4 definitely has variable valve timing and that's what's causing the tick on my LR3. Still driving every day...

Once I get it back from the dealer (it's now in for transmission replacement, yikes) I'll definitely have a listen with the long screwdriver and report back.

I know I'm changing the subject but...
You are having the transmission replaced at 78K miles? What was happening that you made this decision? My indy has warned me that these ZF transmissions are very difficult to rebuild and that's the main thing I should be worried about. What is this going to cost you?

@jpjp. My transmission has been throwing fault code P0783-07 (3-4 SHIFT MECHANICAL FAILURE) for some time now and it's been getting worse. It only happens between 3-4 gear shifts when under load and/or when driving the car for extended periods of time. It will first give signs of delayed shifting into 4th (rpms slip upwards of 3.5k rpm under normal driving) and then start to slip completely out of third when driving for over an hour.

The same behavior happens when driving uphill (I live in Bay Area and there are plenty of these around) or when needing to accelerate onto the highway. The car will throw a fault and then go into limp mode. I then have to pull over onto the shoulder, turn off the car, turn it back on and continue until the problem happens again. Which could be several times during the course of the same trip or sporadically throughout the week.

It's happened enough times to cause concern where I don't feel comfortable letting my wife drive around with others in the car (namely our 3yr old).

I took it to the dealer, they recommended replacement for $8.5k! I later took it to an indy for a second opinion and they recommended a drain and fill of the trans fluid as a first step to see if this would fix. I went with the drain and fill. It improved slightly after a 2 weeks and then started back at its old tricks and progressively got worse.

Informed the indy and he said that he too recommended a replacement at this time. His quote was also a little over $8k.

Called the dealer back and he told me of a ZF transmission specialist that he's been personally going to for the better part of a decade who would rebuild mine for $3k less that what he quoted. Went with the rebuild. Cost was $5,400 for the trans. Dealer did the R&R and trans shop did the rebuild.

Coincidentally, my truck also needed the timing chains done (now back on on topic ). Confirmed by both indy and dealer. I had the dealer perform this service as well after my trans was rebuilt. They also replaced the water pump, belts, and spark plugs (no labor charge).

The dealer has been very helpful through this whole process. Not to mention they loaned me a new 5.0 SuperCharged RR to drive around for 3 weeks while the repairs were being made.

I pick up the truck tomorrow and will report back on all the repairs. The shop even sent some photos and videos with the engine tore down to show the ear on the chain. I'll have to post when I get the chance.

NASdiesel said:

I had a ticking for a while and found it to be the water pump bearing was going. Replaced the pump. Can you use the screw driver method of listening to components?

Click to expand...

I currently have a ticking at start up at about 1Hz and only cold (-10-0F range) and there has been a little coolant residue right on front of engine plastic cover. The fluid level hasnt budged. I suspect water pump bearing as well. I havent taken into the garage yet to get a look at what is going on. Will keep this thread posted! Thanks