Brake judder - causes?

Hi,
I have a 2010 LR4 with 65k miles on it.
Getting a distinct vibration when braking at highway speeds. Otherwise vibration free. I am assuming front discs are slightly warped and need replacing. I guess any loose components in the front end might also incur judder, but that would also show up as a general steering wobble at highway speeds.

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks in advance!

Search for Lower control arm on the site.
Yes, your bakes could be warped if your lug nuts were over tightened, but the bushings in these things don't last very long and that seems to be the culprit of vibration while braking.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Read the link here

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Most brake issues like the one you described could be attributed to deposits of pad material and build up. Try this fix first, easy and free.

Have you recently replaced your rotors? I struggled with brake judder after replacing some OEM rotors with Raybestos ones. Everything would be fine and then within 3k miles the judder at high speed braking would appear. I went through two sets of Raybestos with the same symptoms. I tend to be ******* brakes so pad material build up is unlikely. I finally used some proper made in Germany rotors and have not had an issue over the past 15k miles (Zimmerman). The other thing is to check your caliper pins. Make sure they are lubed and allow your caliper to float. Use rubber safe grease or the rubber grommet will swell. Each caliper has a full metal pin and a pin with a rubber grommet. The service manual states to put these in a specific position (can't recall if *** was upper or lower). A floating caliper will minimize the judder of a disc slightly out of spec.

The second set of Raybestos they sent me were out of service spec. Crappy quality control. Using a dial indicator I was at 0.004 both sides (mounted). The Zimmermans were at 0.001.

Guys thanks for your responses.
LCA's were replaced within the past 3 years (not by me). On the road so will have to check date / mileage when they were replaced. Not high annual mileage so seems poor if they only last 3 years or so.

No, the front discs have not been recently replaced and I always use a torque wrench when changing wheels.

Interesting about the pad deposit build up.

I guess time my mechanic took a look...........

The StopTech white paper is excellent. I always try to follow the bedding procedure they describe, and generally go easy on the brakes for a few hundred street miles after new pads and/or rotors are installed. Different pad compounds can act very differently when new, for example Akebono ceramic pads tend to feel like plywood for the first couple of weeks (I no longer buy them, btw - never used on the LR4 of course).

Always use top-brand (preferably OE/OEM) discs/rotors. Raybestos no longer falls into that category, but Zimmerman should be fine.

If you are REALLY having issues, get a pair of OE/OEM discs cryo treated. Works wonders for racing and fleet use, and isn't that expensive... just be careful to make sure pre-cryo-treated discs aren't off-brand, offshore cheapies. if you're lucky, you will have a local cryo shop available so you can buy the OE/OEM discs and bring them in for cryo treatment, avoiding expensive back & forth shipping.

Good advice. I don't buy the pad build up story as I went through two sets of cheap rotors before installing better ones. All with the same pads and driving habits. Pad build up didn't occur with the last set.

Here is a good practical description on a defender:

Has anyone replaced LCA's themselves? How to diagnose LCA's as culprit? Are there any aftermarket LCA bushings out there that last longer than a few years?

Mozambique said:

Has anyone replaced LCA's themselves? How to diagnose LCA's as culprit? Are there any aftermarket LCA bushings out there that last longer than a few years?

Click to expand...

You can find youtube videos online. The procedure is the exact same for the LR3.

Lucky8 carries some alternatives. You can search around about the pros and cons.

I would recommend getting arms with polybush they last a lot longer usually as long as you have the good polybush like the link below.

https://www.lucky8llc.com/collectio...ont-polybush-lower-control-arm-kit-w-hardware