1996 Disco1 SE7 ABS & Oxygen Sensor Questions

[DigitalNY]

Recently purchased a 1996 Disco1 4.0 V8 and am having a few minor (or at least I hope) issues. The first of which is that the Check Engine light is on and is throwing P0138 which is one of the post-catalytic oxygen sensors.

Is there a cheaper alternative than the $160+ oxygen sensors that autozone and e-bay have available? Even if I have to splice the wires so the connector is right? I've got hi-temp heat shrink, that's no issue.

The second issue I have is that since I purchased the vehicle the AntiLock light has been on after starting the vehicle but would go out when you reached ~10MPH. Over time (the last three days) it has become a persistant on most of the time the vehicle is running. (sometimes when you start it isn't lit but comes on later).

It also seems like the Antilock is kicking in at inappropriate times. Sometime even on light braking you feel and hear the ABS kicking.

DigitalNY

 

[joey]

O2 Sensors... try getting them from www.discoutbritishparts.com Nathan will be very helpful.

ABS.... Lets just say that ABS is not LandRovers stong suit.... I am not telling you what to do, but I pulled the 30 Amp fuse under the hood for the ABS and no more ABS issues, the light will stay on, but it will not cause problems.

Or you can spend thousands tracking down the right sensor or ABS modulator or just find out the Brake fluid needed a good flushing, or that the brake pads and rotors are worn.... I took the less traveled route and saved time, money, and maybe lives.

 

[DigitalNY]

Joey,

I completely agree on the ABS. If it weren't for the fact that I need a New York State Inspection I'd just wait til I replace the rotors and pads to see if it goes away. This morning on the way to work it didn't light at all. I'll have to make sure it's not showing anything amiss as far as obd goes and take it to an inspection station when it's not lit.

Hrmm.. Annoying..

DigitalNY

 

[Moose]

I've run into some Discos of that vintage (specifically, 1995 and 1998) where the ABS light turns on for the first hundred feet or so, which seems to be some sort of self-check. If the light turns off and the ABS works, it's fine.

 

[DigitalNY]

The issue that I think I'm going to have is that in New York the mechanic is supposed to start the vehicle and if any safety related lights are on after 15 seconds the inspection is failed.

I need to find a way of getting it there when it isn't doing it. I just drove it across town and straight from start time til shutdown and through the 5 mile trip it didn't light once except for while starting the vehicle.

I've run into some Discos of that vintage (specifically, 1995 and 1998) where the ABS light turns on for the first hundred feet or so, which seems to be some sort of self-check. If the light turns off and the ABS works, it's fine.

DigitalNY

 

[Moose]

The issue that I think I'm going to have is that in New York the mechanic is supposed to start the vehicle and if any safety related lights are on after 15 seconds the inspection is failed.

I need to find a way of getting it there when it isn't doing it. I just drove it across town and straight from start time til shutdown and through the 5 mile trip it didn't light once except for while starting the vehicle.



DigitalNY

Pull the bulb.

 

[joey]

Acually I know for a fact on the D1's the ABS light will come on (if working correctly) at start up and go out when the vehicle reaches 5 MPH. This doesn't mean it is working correctly, but it does mean the ABS ECU thinks it is.

Please read legal stuff.....

I would pull the fuse and remove the bulb, if it where mine..... Start legal stuff... but I would never tell anyone to do this.... end of legal stuff

 

[DigitalNY]

Okay,

So the Antilock light isn't going to be an issue at inspection time. I just spoke with a friend of mine's father who runs a repair shop / inspection station and according to him it's right in the current NYS manual not to fail a LR Discovery for the AntiLock light unless there's also an actual fault that's bringing the Check Engine light on. Don't know if that's true or not but as long as he thinks it is that's all that matters.

So, I replace the Oxygen Sensor (P0138), clear codes and have it inspected. Great!

Now! What in everyone's opinion is the next important steps that you'd take after purchasing a used 96 Disco I? I'm thinking that I'll do the following in order based on priority.

The only real question I have is regarding the Wheel Bearings. I've been looking at napaonline and it lists PGBPBR37 as the wheel bearing for the back wheels (I know I need 2 / wheel). But it shows only one result for the front which isn't this part number but is a part number that is also in the list for rear bearings. All 4 wheels use the same bearing correct? Anyone know if this is a correct part for the 1996 LR Disco 1 4.0 V8 Automatic?

Are there better heavier duty bearings that would take more of a beating or is it better to just use the cheapies and plan on replacing them more often?

Order Haynes Manual & Replace Oxygen Sensor (For Inspection) ~ $190 Installed
Swivel Grease, 3-Way Seafoam, Tranny Filter Kit & Fluid Change. ~ $150
Rear Rotors & OEM Pads ~ $250 Installed
Wheel Bearings x4 Wheels (8 Bearings) ~ $280
New OME Shocks / Springs (This may be delayed until I build up funds)
New Plugs / Wires ~ $110
Tires .. *SIGH*

Is it a bad idea to use non-drilled, non-slotted aftermarket solid rear rotors? (Brembo's). It's a huge price difference that I really can't afford right now, would I be better off waiting and getting the drilled rotors for $120/per rather than brembo's for $35.27/per?

I'm figuring that I can do one line of the list per pay week out of my "extra money".

Whatcha Think?

DigitalNY

 

[joey]

Sounds like a plan.... but why are you changing the wheel bearings? Unless they are dry and torn up... there is no need, just regrease a reinstall.

I would start (unless you know the history of the vehicle)

All fluid changes first!

Then plugs/wires (cheap champions - Magnacore wires)

Unless you live in mountains or plan to pull a trailer... standard brakes are fine... otherwise get the slotted dimpled (not a fan of cross drilled)

If you plan to change the transmisson fluid, be kind to it... do it over a period of a couple changes, don't flush it or it may have issues.

Shocks/Springs are good, if you plan to offroad, otherwise just shocks.

Tire, no that is a fun choice.. ask 5 people, get 5 answers....

 

[buddycraigg]

Back on track with the ABS light.
Any cure alls?
I'm working with a 95 disco that has those symptoms that others have mentioned.
ABS light comes on at start up.
Goes off after maybe 100 feet and 10mph most of the time.
When the light does not go out. The brakes act normal.
But if the light goes out and the system “thinks” it's working correctly i have had the ABS system kick in under light braking, and almost kept me from coming to a stop in time.

I have heard of the sensors at the wheels needing to be adjusted.
Do the sensors just barely read the exciter ring, and then if they are out of adjustment, the ABS thinks the wheel has stopped spinning when it cant read the ring? So the ABS kicks in.

and before anyone asks, i just put new pads on it, (god these are easy)
the ABS light was on before and after i put new pads on.