2005 LR3 maintenance issues

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scottglynn

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In December I purchased a 2005 LR3. Super clean, 115K. I have experienced some annoying little things and wonder if there is anyone with experience. I am no closer than 2 1/2 hours from a dealer so whipping it into the shop is difficult.

If using the gas pedal (doesn't happen with cruise control) and tooling along maintaining my speed the engine will surge (visible on the tachometer as well) and a noise will emanate from below the vehicle. Typically between 35-50 MPH.

I know the A/C takes awhile to cool off and blow cold air but once I reach that point it will only blow cold air from the drivers vents. All other vents blow warm air. This seems especially odd to me.

Thoughts?
 

tlt

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I wonder if you have the maintenance records....

Surge.... LR3 has some weird shifting patterns if you are not used to it. NOISE-- Could be drive shaft u-joints, tranny, transfer case, diffs, CV Joints, etc. any number of issues, perhaps even the suspension bushings...
 

scottglynn

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The surge happens while maintaining speed with the throttle and is not a down or up shift situation it is a constant surge that disappears when I either step into the pedal or come off of it. The noise is attached to the surge and sounds similar to the individual braking of the Hill Descent Control, though I know its not the HDC or any braking for that matter.
 

tlt

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Differentials, CV Joints, Drive Shaft? If you can get it on a lift, you can check for play. When you say surge, is it a noise, or a surge in engine RPMs, etc.
 

scottglynn

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Its a surge in the power being delivered and I can watch the tach go up and down with it
 

rovernut

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No problems accelerating from a stop?

I'd start with a full fluid and filter change (for my own peace of mind on any used vehicle purchase) maybe plugs as well so that you have a baseline service interval to start with. If you have good service records you should also check about belt replacement and if you have the ability you can do a major PM service just to "be safe".

In "general" terms it sounds like fuel or air so I'd start there...perhaps cleaning throttle body, injection system??? Just guesses and starting point. I'd also see if it's throwing any codes (or has any stored) to provide guidance. Also try the search function here and see if any keywords hit as others here have much better insight and skills than me!
 

tlt

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That sounds like good advice. The next question on my mind would be, is the transmission slipping and causing this, or is it the engine. I did some research for you and posted the results below.

Can you get a sense on that. It's possible if the torque converter is going on (they do, and transmissions do)..

I transmission oil change (Lifeguard 6 only) might be worthwhile, albeit expensive. Maybe it is possible to haven an analysis done on the oil, at the least. Depending on where your troubleshooting leads you.

Engine Surge/Vibration at Constant Speed LA303-017 Discovery 3/LR3.
"A customer may report a concern that a mild engine power surge or a mild vibration similar to an engine misfire can be felt at certain (not all) constant road speeds. The noise may also be described as a noise from auto transmission (scrape or chain noise in all gears). This noise can be induced by revving the engine in neutral (N) and the pipes to/from the fuel filter will be seen to vibrate. In some cases, diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P2292 'Injector Pressure Erratic' can be logged in the control module.

Cause: The fuel filter pipe connections have been incorrectly connected (during vehicle build or during maintenance and repair), which results in reverse fuel flow through the fuel filter element (large pipes crossed), or cause high back-pressure in the high-pressure fuel pump (small pipes crossed). If the fuel tank air-bleed and high-pressure fuel pump return via the fuel cooler is crossed, the resulting pressure fluctuations cause the fuel pipes to vibrate, leading to the above complaint."

The issue with the A/C May be the Control lever - Recirculation flap or some other flap. Drop me an PM if you want the manuals.

Ok, next step is the self test for the AC I don't think this tests for low freon, but any car shop should be able to check / top off the AC.

With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).

The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.

If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.

To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.

Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.

If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.

Where are you located?
 
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tlt

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Interesting, I am going to try this, just to see if it works...
 

hakes4x4

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Interested in an Update, I have this same issue but have been living with it. seems to go away after warmed up.
 

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