BG INJECTION,induction service engine fault codes

[thorgal]

Hey gang.

After some encouragement from some forum members, about BG induction/injection service, I went ahead and requested it , from a local shop, that is certified by BG company , to perform this operation, among many others.
Picked up my car a few hours later with CEL.Well, took out my trusty Faultmate and two DTCs showed up: 171 and 174, two lead codes for both banks.
I think to myself, maybe the chemicals were very harsh and somehow made a pinhole along the way in PCV or half or full load pipes,but first , I reset it and drove away.I remember , that Dave, a member of this forum said something about platinum heads on spark plugs going weak , after performing this type of service, so I called peep boys and drove away to pick them up.
Well, codes came back, after approx. 25 miles, so I went back to the local shop to ask them what did they actually took off so I can look for vacuum leaks, assuming, that is the problem.
I swear, I could hear a hissing coming from somewhere, so we poked around.
When I disconnect a half load pipe going from PCV to intake manifold , place a piece of cardboard on intake pipe and start the car , the hissing disappeared.
Put the pipe back and it returns.So..I decided to buy a new half and full load pipes along with a new PCV valve , just to eliminate a main suspects.The short pipe , for some reason, that only LR knows, is very expansive, but i bit the bullet, just to be sure.It sounded better , after start up, but not entirely hissing free, also when I push a cup on PCV it changes pitch, I am not sure if that is the normal behavior, I think it is..
Anyway, without changing spark plugs yet,I reset the transmission adoptions, hopping, that , maybe Throttle body needs to re -learn new, cleaner mixture, reset both codes and hope for the best.I guess , it took the entire system a lot longer to check and illuminate both 171 and 174 codes, probably due to reseting the transmission adoptions{300 or so}.

So , basically, I wanted a good thing and it came out with a recurring problem at the end of the cleaning.Should I perform a smoke test to detect a leak, could it be air intake manifold gaskets and if they are , what is involved to change them on LR3?
Car drives normally without and misfires or hesitation, only it cranks a bit longer in the morning, due to a cold weather in NE .New battery installed a few months a go.
Thanks

 

[RoverGuy7]

Plugs are recommended after the injection service, and incomplete combustion will cause lean codes on this engine. Also, if not done already, change the oil following these, as the chemicals are designed to 'eat' away oil and carbon, but that isn't causing your issue.

There should be a slight 'hiss' from the tube from the PCV to the intake at idle, nothing more then the corrugating of the tube, think of a kid spinning a bendy straw.

I always suggest replacement of the PCV valve after the induction service, as that chemical will degrade the rubber diaphragm inside it, and can cause issues.

The most common cause for lean codes following these services is from the intake tube clamps/seal not being put back on properly, seen it far too many times. I have also seen when the service is not done properly, with a raised idle speed, the induction cleaner will puddle up in the intake tube(from MAFS to throttle body) and can eat away at the plastic, and cause it to crack.

It is not uncommon for fueling faults (171 172 174 175) to get logged during or immediately after the services, as engine fueling control is being drastically messed with by adding extra and different fuel to the system, but they should not return once cleared, and driven.

Intake gaskets on this are metal, and should in no way be affected by the service.

These services are great when preformed correctly, however can easily cause issues when the correct amount of attention is taken by the technician preforming them. BG has recently had to pull a few services from the market due to technicians incorrectly preforming them, and causing issues(not these, namely intake valve cleaning for DI engines, that caused several engines to hydra-lock due to techs trying to save a few minutes, and not preforming it properly)

I would start by removing the intake tube, all 3 pieces, and reinstalling it, using care on the rubber seal at the air cleaner side. When it is off, look closely(easiest way is from inside out, with a bright light behind it) at the tubes, including the resonator piece, to see if you can spot any cracks or pinholes.

Only other thing to looks at would be the fuel line going into the rail. If they did not have the correct adapters, they might have cut the rubber line and put it back in place, which could create too tight of a bend in the line, and kink it. This would still give you correct pressure, but flow would be low, and give a similar issue to low pressure.

 

[thorgal]

Thanks Dave for an explanation.

I forgot to mention a few things in the process, but being as pain in the but as I am, immediately questioned their assembly process after the service.Took everything apart from filter to the throttle body,one clamp was loose, so after visual check up on resonator, throttle body , air filter chamber and hoses , i assembled every piece back with appropriate care.Did not use the flashlight though...,maybe I should start over...anyway,,as I mentioned before, I changed both pipes going out of PCV and PCV as well.Also oil change followed shortly after.I also added MOA to oil, maybe that was the culprit?
As for adapters for a fuel line, I did not asked which one they used, I will ...Would not changing to a new spark plugs cause two lean codes?
I wonder if these codes are related to air intake on parts leading to throttle body or it is related to post PCV valve pipe leaks?

They also have a smoke machine to check for leaks, but I don't know if it is helpful or harmful for our engines.

 

[RoverGuy7]

Just to clarify, the codes were not there before the service, correct?

Plugs can cause these faults, even without causing misfire faults.

MOA is good stuff, I use it, not to blame in the least.

Also worth checking the o rings on both the oil filler cap and the dipstick, no explanation as to why now, but a bad seal on either will give you a vacuum leak.

Only other common issue with lean codes on these is in the software calibration, which I have seen be fine, but cause a fault after adaptions are reset, this has no diagnostic process aside from pulling the adaptive fuel trim charts, which as far as I know is only available using factory diagnostic equipment.

 

[thorgal]

Yes , these codes where NOT there , before the service.I check the O rings on new PCV valve as I forgot to smear a new engine oil on them.Will change a spark plugs next week and look for creaks on intake system.Thanks for a tip on dipstick ,I will look into it tomorrow morning.It is frustrating though...every time I grow strong enough to trust a local mechanic they turn everything around, due to sloppiness, incorrect procedure,lock of knowledge, regarding LRs or just pure rush.The only guy, that I trusted for years, just recently cost me over 1000 bucks due to incorrect re assembly procedure of one of the jobs, that he performed on my car,as I later observed when picking my LR3, he got himself drunk so much that day , that he could barely stand.But that is another story,well he is looking for another job right now,,..so I had no were to go , but explore my options with a local garage, that supposedly performed hundreds of BG clean ups.I guess, I have to overcome some fears and start to work on my car myself as I use to before, but I can't just justify the cost of some tools(as BG apparatus per example} for a one time work, so I resort to others...I wish , I could have someone reliable as you Dave in NJ, I am really tired of fixing the stuff myself after others...Thanks again.

 

[thorgal]

I will attempt to change a spark plugs today,I do have a good torque wrench and bunch of extensions if I ever need them, also it is getting wormer here in NE and since I don't have access to a garage , most of my work needs to be done outside, on the driveway.My question is , do I put a anti seize grease on spark plugs with our aluminum blocks or not?
NGK website's tech bulletin says: do not use anti seize on Zinc or Nickel plated spark plugs as it will cause over torquing and damage the head of the spark plug.
I am using IRIDIUM ix PN.BKR5EIX-11.

 

[thorgal]

Good call on O ring on dipstick.I checked it next morning ,took it out and although I did not see any rips in it, I wiggled it while pushing it back and CEL disappeared.I don't know if it is normal for dipstick to fell loose in the channel, by the O ring, I guess it wears off as everything else over time .Right now I see no returning codes, so I guess it wiggling worked, at least for now..I wonder if I could buy just an O ring for a dipstick alone...

 

[RoverGuy7]

Yeah, it should feel pretty secure in the tube, and you can absolutely change just the o-ring, just need to get the right size, which I don't know off hand, but can check for you next time I'm at the shop.

 

[thorgal]

Thanks.I'd appreciate it ,if you could find out.I t really feels a little wobbly.