Dual battery - Optima - Traxide SC80 - IN!

[schafari]

Well, got around to installing my dual battery setup this weekend. I put an Optima Yellow Top D34/78 in the stock Land Rover 2nd battery compartment, and installed all the wiring for the Traxide SC80 combiner. I also ran the full power to the cargo area, installed two additional 20amp 12v outlets and then a 50amp quick connect tap as well.

I have to say, the Traxide product is fantastic. Really good product quality, directions, completeness of kit, etc. I can now easily run three batterys in the LR3, the cranking battery plus two deep cycle AGM batterys. All can be charged by the SC80, and all are connected in paralell. I now have 2,350 CCA and over 145 amp hours of power. Although I'll only carry the 3rd deep cycle in the cargo area only as needed not all the time.

Once again, I highly reccomend this kit. It had no surprises, included all the items needed, and was a quality kit. (Zero affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer.)

 

[toddjb122]

I've asked this in other posts, but I'm curious on your experience running the 12V outlets to the rest of the vehicle. For me, I really would not be interested in the 2nd battery without this functionality but the thought of running the wires from the engine compartment to the rest of the vehicle seems intimidating.

Do you have any pictures of your install you could share?

Thanks!

 

[drzjoint]

pics of the install?

 

[schafari]

I just have pics of the engine bay. I'll post after I get out of work. However, running the wires to the rear is really simple in the LR3. The hardest part is working with a rubber grommet in the firewall if you can believe it. Once you have the cable in the truck, it is easy. In essence, you remove a total of four pieces of trim.

1. - Two phillips srews and a clip releases the panel under the steering column
2. - Two 10mm bolts release the dead pedal and one small torx screw allows the driver kick panal to come off.
3. - The plastic sill cover simply pulls up all along the side of the truck
4. - The lower B panel cover simply pops off

You then run the sheathed cable to the back in a pre-existing channel along the door sill. You then simply push it up into the wheel well covers in the rear. Finally, pull it out the tow hitch storage compartment.

Intsalling the outlets is super easy also. 29mm (1 1/8") hole saw and the two outlets go in on either side of the truck, right next to or across from the existing outlet. Wiring connects to the cable coming from the front. I have two outlets on one side, and one on the other side now. The cable running between simply runs in the area under the tailcover flappy thing that goes up and down when you open/close the tailgate.

This is are a really easy install. Much easier then most other cars I have worked on.

 

[madtownrover]

I just have pics of the engine bay. I'll post after I get out of work. However, running the wires to the rear is really simple in the LR3. The hardest part is working with a rubber grommet in the firewall if you can believe it. Once you have the cable in the truck, it is easy. In essence, you remove a total of four pieces of trim.

1. - Two phillips srews and a clip releases the panel under the steering column
2. - Two 10mm bolts release the dead pedal and one small torx screw allows the driver kick panal to come off.
3. - The plastic sill cover simply pulls up all along the side of the truck
4. - The lower B panel cover simply pops off

You then run the sheathed cable to the back in a pre-existing channel along the door sill. You then simply push it up into the wheel well covers in the rear. Finally, pull it out the tow hitch storage compartment.

Intsalling the outlets is super easy also. 29mm (1 1/8") hole saw and the two outlets go in on either side of the truck, right next to or across from the existing outlet. Wiring connects to the cable coming from the front. I have two outlets on one side, and one on the other side now. The cable running between simply runs in the area under the tailcover flappy thing that goes up and down when you open/close the tailgate.

This is are a really easy install. Much easier then most other cars I have worked on.

Ditto. Very easy once you get through the firewall. Instructions are excellent.

 

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks, thanks schafari and madtownrover for the thumbs up.

I’m a Land Rover fan and owner and I try to look after all Land Rover owners but I do go out of my way for the D3/LR3 owners as the wife has one and I occasionally get to drive it but it also allows me to try to supply decent kits with comprehensive instructions.

I find there is nothing worse than getting a new gadget, getting all revved up to fit it and then find the instructions are in chinglish or are just useless, tends to turn you off the product in the end.

Anyway, for those of you who are interested, the link below will take you to the Australian Land Rover Owners ( AULRO ) web site, where I have most of the instructions, including pictures, for running cable to the rear of the D3/LR3.

I have worked around all sorts of vehicles over 35 years in this game and as schafari posted, the D3/LR3 is the easiest vehicle I have ever come across for running cable through.

Full Power Cable Kit for the LR3

BTW schafari and madtownrover if you have any suggestions for improving the instructions or the kit, don’t hesitate to post it up and I’ll follow it up.

Cheers and thanks again for the support.

 

[toddjb122]

That's great stuff.
Thanks again.