I cant believe that I am asking this ...

[RoverChic]

Rotors looked good. A bad caliper??? Yes I get some pull to the right but I just had the Rover aligned. Serg is there a way to test the calipers??

 

[Sergei]

Ah so you had it covered. Cool!

 

[LRWheelman]

Melissa, have you had to replace the rotors since you bought "Henry"? Are your rotors stillwithin wear limits? I skimped on my last front brake repair on the "Big Red One", 93 Geo Tracker, wound up costing me a caliper b/cause piston too far out & wouldn't re-seat. Did it over, more new parts, works great now. I can't believe you don't carry a spare pin/spring/clip set in your spares kit! When did you last change brake fluid? Very important for proper function. Thank You, LRW.

 

[RoverChic]

"Are your rotors still within wear limits?" I believe so. I do not have a michromoter (not sure on that spelling) to measure so I am not sure? It was flushed out @ 60K miles. The Rover now has 79K miles. A family member is driving the Rover so I want to be sure they are safe. I guess I will take it back to a tire store and have them measure the rotors. Is there a way to test to see if the calipers are bad?

 

[LRWheelman]

Melissa, I measure my rotors w/ a vernier caliper, not the best tool but it works for me. I check my pads/rotors/calipers/lines @ every tire rotation by using my eye to look at top of caliper/pads/rotor on each side while my 12 yr old son operates the brake pedal. you should see them "squeeze" the rotor when applied, and "relax" the squeeze when released. If a calipers not "relaxing" it is sticking due to due to any of the following-bad piston in caliper, bad caliper, bad or plugged brake line, or something stuck somewhere in brake piping system. Simple test-if pads don't move back when pedal released, but do when you open that bleeder-bad line. If they don't move back when you open bleeder-bad caliper. Test twice @ least to make sure, reset pads, BLEED BRAKES!, and bleed em' good! Air & water are required for life, but not in your braking system! Good Luck!, LRW.

 

[Roverhound]

So actual reason behind whole thing to not spray it are:

- protective layer will be damaged

- you will leave some liquid and then it will boil (thanks to exhaust nearby) and create conditions to damage thermo stripe/string. Also if its going inside those tiny holes too dip it may shorten wires.

Electronic degreasers/contact cleaners will NOT leave a residue or harm coatings. That's why I said Electronic degreasers/contact cleaner. As stated before, CRC available at Lowes is good for this application.
Just make sure the cleaner IS for electronics. Let the MAF throughly dry out before installing and starting.
Electronic degreasers/contact cleaners are very fast drying and do not conduct electricty

 

[RoverChic]

Thanks Walter I might go buy some @ Lowes and try it. I have done everything else that I can think of. Changed the 02 sensors, changed the air filter...The only concern is that the MAFS on my Disco is 500.00 plus! EEkkk!! Hey guys what makes a MAF go bad? ( I mean I certainly do understand that it is a sensor and yes those go bad..But can say driving in arduous sand/dust ruin it)?

 

[Sergei]

Melissa - there is one on ebay right now for about 80$