LEAKING WASHER RESERVOIR

[djatkinson]

Hello, all!

Is there a thread for changing out the washer reservoir?

Thanks in advance!

Dan

 

[djatkinson]

OK, so am I the only guy that has ever had a washer reservoir that leaks, and should be replaced???

 

[Houm_WA]

No issue here (don't jinx me!)

 

[jwest]

OK, so am I the only guy that has ever had a washer reservoir that leaks, and should be replaced???

I've seen it dribble sometimes but you can reach under it's bottom to see if the connection is snug. Access via the fender liner side. You'll probably have to remove a few screws but it's right in front of the liner. You should try to note if this only happens when you top it all off or if it's all the time even when fluid is below top of tank. Just follow the dribble to source.

 

[bbyer]

Link re washer tank replacement - took maybe a three minute search to find the thread.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/replacing-washer-bottle-60402.html?highlight=washer+tank

Below is a summary of the procedure - the thread contains more comment and worth reading.


Tackled this today as mine was leaking and getting the "low washer fluid" message less than 24 hours after refilling. I think the part will vary depending on whether or not you have headlamp power wash installed. Took me about 4 hours in total, bottle was about £34 from GS Knutsford.

I raised the suspension to improve access before I started. Consider using axle stands, although I did not need to venture beneath the car. You will need to remove the front grille, towing eye cover and both headlamp units to give you the required access. Instructions are in the handbook, easy except I needed a little WD40 on the headlamp release sliders to free them.

You then need to remove both side wheel arch covers which are held in place by a combination of screws/clips. Under each wheel arch are 5 plastic "Rawlplug" type fixings that comprise two parts. Chances are, they are hidden by mud. Using a small screw driver, remove the centre part of each fixing. Then remove the plug itself. Take care that you get all the parts as you will need to refit them later. If you have mud flaps, then remove the two small bolts that are visible. There are also two cross head screws located at the front, one connects to the bumper and another holds the wheel arch liner in place. Finally, remove the small cross head screw that can be found in the headlamp recess. This goes through the metal of the front wing to hold the wheel arch cover in place. The front of the wheel arch cover locates into a slot in the bumper, lifting up and out may be required to separate the two.

Once both sides are removed, you can start on removing the bumper itself. There are 4 hex bolts and two more cross head screws located on the bottom. Additionally, there is a larger hex bolt at each end that was previously hidden by the wheel arch cover. Six more small bolts are located on the top surface, these are found in the recess where the grille and headlamps were fitted. Take care when removing the bumper as the wiring loom is not that long. A plug can be disconnected in the O/S headlamp recess if you want to completely remove the bumper. I supported mine on a small chair so that the wiring was not stretched. You should now be able to access the washer bottle.

I removed both pumps using gentle leverage. You should also disconnect the plug that is attached to the float switch. Finally, remove the filler neck by pulling. There are three small bolts and one larger one that secure the tank in place. Two of the small bolts and the large one are easily visible from the front. The remaining small bolt secures from the top, access is gained via the headlamp recess and is a little awkward. Again, take care when removing the bottle as you will need to transfer the motor and filler neck seals as well as the float switch and seal to your new tank. Make sure you replace the float switch the right way up. There is also a brass fitting which the large bolt passed through.

Refitting is the opposite process. I would recommend that you run a leak/function test as soon as the tank is back in place. It occurred to me that one of the motors or float mechanism may have been the culprit and it would have been annoying if I discovered this after putting everything back in place!

The eventual cause of the leak was a failed "weld" in the body of the plastic bottle. Not visible to the ***** eye, possibly a result of the recent cold weather and useless screen wash...

 

[djatkinson]

Thanks, bbyer!

This project looks like a lot more than I would have imagined!
I think I'll do what Jwest suggested, before digging into this one!!!

Dan