Llams height controller added

[jwest]

Only issue is when performing EAS calibrations with IIDTool I have to disconnect the Llams module and install the supplied null plug on the socket going to it, as IIDTool is unable to read calibration numbers with Llams hooked up otherwise. But that only happens if I need to recalibrate my suspensions, which is something I only did a couple of times on my 2006 RRS.

Now what do you mean exactly by the above "calibrations"? The only thing I've done with the IIDTool for suspension heights is to start from "default" which is factory standard. Then add or subtract from there for both front and rear "all". I can do all of this while LLAMS is plugged in although just to be safe, I only make IIDTool changes while the LLAMS knob is in "off" position.

Why would you ever need to calibrate in some other way?

 

[umbertob]

If your car sits crooked on one side or one corner all the time and there are no obvious reasons (like a blown bag, leaky valve, trouble codes, etc), one or more of the ride height sensors may simply be out of whack and you may need to recalibrate ride height. Or, if the car appears to be riding a little lower than it used to in normal height, you may need to recalibrate. If you replace a faulty height sensor, or a control arm, or the EAS module itself, you definitely must recalibrate the whole EAS system as the values will most likely need to be different with the new hardware installed. Basically, when you calibrate you permanently change the original factory values with new ones based on actual measurements you take at each wheel.

It's not something you do every day, you may never need to do it actually. But you can perform a full blown calibration with IIDTool if you have to - there is a specific chapter with fairly complicated worksheet and sample charts in the IIDTool manual that helps figuring out the ride height adjustment / calibration process. It's the same exacting procedure a dealer would follow: They don't just add or subtract millimeters. They put the car in tight tolerance mode, measure the distance between wheel center and top of wheel arch at each wheel (they actually use a special tool for that, at home we are stuck with a more pedestrian tape measure...), compare the measurements with their factory specs, and make any necessary adjustments by modifying the factory values with new calculated ones in the EAS module, which unfortunately vary not only for each individual car, but very often for each corner of the same car. It's a fairly involving procedure.

Anyway, if you try to perform all that with your IIDTool while the Llams module is connected, you won't be able to even start the routine (neither will the dealer or an indy shop, which is why you should always disconnect Lllams before having work done on your suspensions.) The calibration values you need to retrieve from the EAS module will jump all over the place while Llams is hooked up, you can't get a steady reading. You need to unplug it and use the null plug Llams supplies to completely remove the module from the equation and get the current stored values you need. Then, you can calibrate.

 

[jwest]

I see. Thank you for the explanation!!! Funny the LLAMS paperwork does not specifically label what the little dead-end connector is called or when it is to be used. I am understanding it is to be plugged in place of the box when wanting to remove the box from the system like during dealer EAS work as you mentioned.

Hey, I am sending a PM LR4 related....

 

[jwest]

... my 1.0 version didn't come with the "new" recovery and extra low switch... .

So do you now have the extra low and high ability? Is this via the red button or something else? How would I know if I have the version 1 or later with extra feature? I do recall my paperwork talking about the "special" switch and I have the red button wire tucked underneath so I've never even tested it.

Nor do I know how you're supposed to engage extra low or high. Do you simply press it when in either dial "low" or "high" and it'll know automatically?

 

[umbertob]

If you have the red "Mode" button, you have V2 with the special modes built in. Before updating my V1 module only included the rotary switch.

To engage EXTRA LOW mode, set the Llams switch to Low (-20mm) and momentarily press the red switch. Car will lower pretty much on the bump stops. If you already have Access mode engaged and and Llams at -20mm, you may get a grounding fault and the car will rise, especially if you own a MY07 or earlier LR3. On the LR4, you should be sitting pretty much on the bump stops in Extra Low, useful to enter a really low overhead garage or to store the car away for long periods of time without unduly stressing the airbags. To disable, momentarily move the Llams switch to medium (+30mm.)

To engage RECOVERY mode (raises the car to approximately Off-Road height when in "safe" mode, which is what the suspensions often default to when they detect a fault and the dreaded "EAS Fault - Suspensions Lowering" message pops up in the middle of nowhere), set the Llams switch to High (+50mm) and then momentarily press the red button. Car will rise about 90-100mm or so total. If you do so while in any height other than the "Safe" one, you will likely get a fault, so use only if the vehicle is pretty much on or near the bump stops due to a fault. To disable, momentarily move the Llams switch to Low (-20mm)

To engage LOCKED mode (prevents height changes via Llams even though the switch may indicate otherwise - useful also when calibrating suspensions using default values), set the Llams switch to the Off position and momentarily press the red button. To disable, press the red button again.

All these modes are confirmed by the LED on the Llams module changing color, but if you are like me the module is buried somewhere up the A-pillar above your feet.... So I carry the above instructions with me in the glove compartment, just in case.

 

[umbertob]

PS: I forgot I had posted link to the installation and use manual on a much earlier post, which explains all these special modes available to V2 in greater detail (scroll down near the end of the document): https://app.box.com/s/46ezof3vcgc9zvo2i9do

 

[jwest]

Magic RED button works great. It's like getting something new again Used it today on a local trail, Tahuya checking out the area. I gotta say, the LLAMS is awesome. Perfect ride is factory "off road" height + LLAMS +20mm, or just "standard height" and +50mm in case you want to bust down a gravel connector road where 30mph would lower you and make the compressor work unnecessarily.

Found a couple spots where "OR" +50 were not quite enough but the red button provided just a bit more. I plan to do some driveway measuring to see exactly what the changes are but in gravel I have 14" under the transmission Rasta plate and 16-17 under the slider bar which happens to be the same as the midpoint underneath for considering the breakover clearance.

I'm pondering ways to create more fender clearance in order to fit 33"-34"...

 

[samcarloso]

Umberto, Would you recommend getting the IID tool vs Llams?

 

[umbertob]

It's hard to beat the convenience and sheer simplicity of the Llams switch. Even the IIDTool is no match when you are on a trail and quickly need extra clearance, or reach the road and wish to go back to standard height in 5 seconds flat, no need to stop and fumble with the OBDII port, nothing to plug in, no menus, no calculations. Just flip the switch and go. The other advantage of the Llams is that it is a "dumb" analog system. It will raise your height by 50mm when you flip the switch to that position (or even +100mm when you enter the "emergency" recovery mode described above), while the IIDTool is a digital system that interacts with your EAS module and may or may not allow +50mm, depending on what the initial calibration numbers stored are.

On the other hand, the IIDTool can do so much more than just adjusting your suspensions' height. It is truly a pocketable diagnostic computer. Last time I checked, it was also quite a bit cheaper than the Llams, so you do get way more bang for your buck with the IIDTool, that's for sure. If you can only get one of them, IMHO get the IIDTool. I am lucky to own both, love the combination and would really hate it if someone took my Llams away one day.

 

[Surfrider77]

I definitely see the appeal of the LLAMS simplicity, but once you have configured your IIDTool and store your EAS presets it is pretty damn quick and painless. Even with the "hassle" of the OBD port and flicking through the menus, it still only takes a minute or two to raise or lower. If I had to choose one, the additional features (and price) of the IITool wins out every time.