Locking Diff Retrofit

[Mack73]

Wow sounds like fantastic progress.

Once you have finished this - Find a way to manually lock the center diff - so a stupid CV failure doesn't stop the vehicle from moving.

 

[mmurai]

Kudos to Trynian!

 

[tomasesto]

Trynian, thnx for the detailed reply and GREAT JOB!

 

[tomasesto]

Wow sounds like fantastic progress.

Once you have finished this - Find a way to manually lock the center diff - so a stupid CV failure doesn't stop the vehicle from moving.

Mack73, Having the ability to manually lock the center diff out on the trail would definitely come into good use. On the previous models Ive seen situations where front/half shaft was remove due to damaged u-joints etc and the truck was able to be driven for repair, however; is that TEMP Trail repair even possible on the LR3. I always wondered and crossed my fingers hoping Id never actually have to find out the hard way.

 

[Mack73]

Mack73, Having the ability to manually lock the center diff out on the trail would definitely come into good use. On the previous models Ive seen situations where front/half shaft was remove due to damaged u-joints etc and the truck was able to be driven for repair, however; is that TEMP Trail repair even possible on the LR3. I always wondered and crossed my fingers hoping Id never actually have to find out the hard way.

I can't remember which forum I posted the info on (either this or lrrforums) but after reading reports out of the US, UK and Austrailia the consensus is that if one of the drive shafts fails the computer can't see a signal from the ABS ring at the wheel hub. When this happens the computer throws a hissy hit and all the power goes to the broken corner = you go no where (NOTE even a front driveshaft causes this effect). If you put it into rock crawl mode, it will lock the diff and let the vehicle move - BUT the computer is smart enough to know that it should unlock the diff when you turn. So it is locked while you are going straight then when you start turning, it unlocks and you coast to a stop. Trick is the go fast enough in a straight line so you can coast through the turn before running out of steam. Oh and incase anyone was wondering a locking rear diff makes no difference in this situation.

EDIT: found the thread http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21242

 

[Trynian]

Had the diff system running all day today and all seems to be functioning as it should.

I was able to come up with a very low amp testing system and the results are that it is actually an active diff more than I would say a locking diff.

Test meter shows the differential locking motor and locking break are constantly active while driving around town. That isn’t to say that it is locking all the time but it is making adjustments all the time.

That would lead me to believe that a simple manual switch is not so simple. Not saying it can't be done but it is really hard to tell what is actually the full lock position with all the activity I observed driving around town. Watching the activity meter while on the trail may shed more light on it.

 

[tomasesto]

I can't remember which forum I posted the info on (either this or lrrforums) but after reading reports out of the US, UK and Austrailia the consensus is that if one of the drive shafts fails the computer can't see a signal from the ABS ring at the wheel hub. When this happens the computer throws a hissy hit and all the power goes to the broken corner = you go no where (NOTE even a front driveshaft causes this effect). If you put it into rock crawl mode, it will lock the diff and let the vehicle move - BUT the computer is smart enough to know that it should unlock the diff when you turn. So it is locked while you are going straight then when you start turning, it unlocks and you coast to a stop. Trick is the go fast enough in a straight line so you can coast through the turn before running out of steam. Oh and incase anyone was wondering a locking rear diff makes no difference in this situation.

EDIT: found the thread http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21242

Mack73

So basically up a creek w/o a paddle cuz last I trailed thru rock gardens and obstacles there wasnt much straight away to build enuf speed to coast thru a turn so... SOL is where I would prolly end up. NOTE to self-- never go trailing thru challenging terrain w/o a tow truck haha. Thanks for the info and the link I will actually hone my line choice skills and wallet to afford a good trans skid plate for add'l security.

 

[Trynian]

Mack73

So basically up a creek w/o a paddle cuz last I trailed thru rock gardens and obstacles there wasnt much straight away to build enuf speed to coast thru a turn so... SOL is where I would prolly end up. NOTE to self-- never go trailing thru challenging terrain w/o a tow truck haha. Thanks for the info and the link I will actually hone my line choice skills and wallet to afford a good trans skid plate for add'l security.

You could just cary an extra CV joint as part of your repair kit. They are only $100. same part both inner and outer. they are different front and back so you would need one for the front and one for the back.

A complete haffshaft is $200.

 

[tomasesto]

You could just cary an extra CV joint as part of your repair kit. They are only $100. same part both inner and outer. they are different front and back so you would need one for the front and one for the back.

A complete haffshaft is $200.

Trynian, once again best suggestion I heard and funny never even thought about it b4 on an LR3---even though I started trailing on a 95 Classic SWB but guess its time to beef up my trail repair kit FOSHO! thnx

 

[Trynian]

For any interested. The retrofit is working perfect. Took it out over the weekend to find some specific obstacles and the new rear diff operated perfect.