Replacing DMTL pump on LR3

[nashvegas]

Hi everyone - 2009 LR3, 125K. I am trying to replace my DMTL pump with a new one. (throwing the gas tank loose or removed message/ codes) I have a new pump and had thought it was as simple as dropping the spare, undoing connections, and connecting the new one.

HOWEVER - there's very little room up there to manuever and more importantly, there are 2-3 little bolts or screws that hold the pump on, and I can't get to them because they're blocked by something else.

Anyone have ideas as to how to do this? I see a ton of threads saying "Yep thats the problem, we replace those all the time" -- but now I can't figure it out.

Thanks in advance.

 

[nashvegas]

Update: Now I've gotten the charcoal canister (2 bolts, 3 connections) disconnected, and was thinking I could take it out as an assembly, but can't seem to wiggle it out (not enough clearance). Hmm...ideas?

 

[bbyer]

Super extended height perhaps?

Is the DMTL located sort of in front of the spare tyre and kind of above the rear differential?

I think it is so no wonder it is impossible to remove.

Towards the bottom of the link below, there is one file in particular that has good diagrams of the DMTL and associated piping but is silent re removal.

I assume you have your 3 in off road height and axle jacks in all four corners under the frame?

If the solution is more height, you could trick the 3 into going to super extended height, but again axle jacks etc unless you have some spare hands.

http://bit.ly/1hrIQm5

 

[Trynian]

The pump is attached to the canister. Unhook the hoses and the bolts and it just comes right out. Then remove the pump from the canister.

 

[nashvegas]

Thanks for the help but I couldnt get it out

I unhooked the connections and undid the 2 bolts -- but I still could not get this thing out. On the passenger side, the many large diameter rubber pipes from the fuel filler assembly to fuel tank block removal. From the drivers side, there is some other device there with what looked to be fuel lines attached. Car is not jacked up, or on stands, as neither changes the clearance.

Anyways, I had the thing undone, wrestled with it endlessly. At least 2 hours. And I'm a pretty good mechanic... used to doing old crappy saab water pumps that seemed impossible but if you twisted JUST the right way, it came out. I.Gave.Up. Decided I'd just take it to dealer/shop, hooked it back up, had a 6 pack of beer, got ****** at myself, cleaned the spare tire, washed the truck, started the truck and *** The check engine light went out ***. Are you kidding me !?

Um, yeah, so I fixed my problem, apparently it must have been a loose connection or all of my roughhousing with the charcoal canister and DMTL pump jarred it back to life.

(and now I have a $255 new DMTL pump sitting here, unused)

 

[bbyer]

be happy

Your situation is better than my usual attempts - you have the new part still in the box and the problem resolved. For me, usually with great difficulty, time, and effort, the parts eventually get installed and I still have the problem - actually maybe more problems.

I really am a fan of axle jacks under the frame any time I even think of getting under my 3. It dropped on me to the stops once for absolutely no reason as I was walking away from it a few years back. I figured I had my warning.

Any story about leaving doors open inhibits air exhausting is just that - a story, and a yet to be achieved LR design goal - perfection.

Thanks for the update.

 

[Kenneth Kahan]

I have a 2008 Sport SC diagnosed with the DMTL failure. I was able to replace it myself with a little advice from my local dealer. First remove the spare, then remove the spare tire heat shield (four nuts). Remove the three hoses on the passenger side of vehicle by squeezing the right part of the connector kind of like a quick release of sorts. On the biggest hose you have to pull back on the rubber ring. The fittings have O-rings inside. The electrical connecter has a release lever inside the rubber on the top wire end of the wire connector not the pump end of the connector. Now there are two 10mm bolts going through the feet of the whole assembly at the rear end of the assembly. When removed the whole assembly will now remove rearward because the front part of the assembly is just tabbed in place. Now here is the dealer advice: the assembly cannot be removed in whole so don't try. Jockey the unit around so you can see the three T15 torx screws holding the white/black pump to the rest of the assembly. I was able to use around a 5" driver, real tight but doable (end of dealer advice.) Now you can twist the pump back and forth and pull it out of the assembly. Will come out with a rubber bushing on the pump. Pull this carefully off the pump and push carefully on to the new one. I put a minute dab of assembly silicon on this bushing when reinstalling and the same on the other O-rings and I mean just a smallest amount possible so the rubber isn't totally dry and scrapped or distorted. Your choice of reversing the reassembly. Be careful to get the whole pump assembly tabbed into the slots before putting the 10mm bolts back in. Whole job with the learning curve and dealer call was 1hr 45min.

Good luck, wish this advice was on the net before I did the job.

 

[nashvegas]

Thanks for the recap Kenneth - good to know !

 

[Westwallaby]

Well done coaxing those instructions from the dealer Kenneth, the job was exactly as you described. Time is about right too. Thanks. BTW, for my 2013 RR Sport the vapor leak detection pump (evap pump) part number was BOSCH 0261222022.

 

[roverman2010]

Bringing up an older post about replacing this item, as above dealers secrets, Yes you CAN remove the complete unit with the pump still attached, just move the EAS filter over by pushing it as it is only held in place by two plastic feet. This gives you ampule space to remove after pulling the three pipes and electric connector off. hope this helps you.