Wheel Spacers?

[ABNYC]

Good evening everyone. My LR4 currently has 20's with 275/55/R20 tires on. I have the Johnson rod lift kit however those darn frame ends still cause rubbing! Does anyone know if hub-centric spacers will solve the issue and if so what size spacers would be suitable?

 

[joey]

Welcome to the forum... this is more an intro section then for questions. I would suggest posting in the LR4 section if you haven't already.

 

[ABNYC]

Welcome to the forum... this is more an intro section then for questions. I would suggest posting in the LR4 section if you haven't already.

Hey Joey I accidentally began this thread in the intro section. Is there a way it can be moved to the lr4 section by the mods or I have to make a new thread?

 

[joey]

I just moved it.

 

[drew]

3/4 inch should be plenty. As long as you're leaving your rods in.

 

[ABNYC]

3/4 inch should be plenty. As long as you're leaving your rods in.

Would it be overkill if I picked up 1.5" spacers in terms of the amount wheel that would be poking out beneath the fender flares?

 

[jwest]

Would it be overkill if I picked up 1.5" spacers in terms of the amount wheel that would be poking out beneath the fender flares?

LOL. Does nobody observe/test how the geometry works? Spacers will cause MORE contact at the frame "horns".

Two things cause frame horn contact:
1-tire diameter
2-tire width.

When you increase both, you close the gap to the frame horns.

Shortened rods don't help with any of that. If you bought the rods to help with that clearance, you were sold a lie. With 20" wheels and that size tire, you didn't need shorter rods in the first place and ultimately gained nothing except worse vehicle handling, need for an alignment, and less $.

 

[ABNYC]

3/4 inch should be plenty. As long as you're leaving your rods in.

LOL. Does nobody observe/test how the geometry works? Spacers will cause MORE contact at the frame "horns".

Two things cause frame horn contact:
1-tire diameter
2-tire width.

When you increase both, you close the gap to the frame horns.

Shortened rods don't help with any of that. If you bought the rods to help with that clearance, you were sold a lie. With 20" wheels and that size tire, you didn't need shorter rods in the first place and ultimately gained nothing except worse vehicle handling, need for an alignment, and less $.

I didn't buy the rods as they already came installed on the vehicle at the time of purchase, as were the wheels/tires. I guess for the mean time, ProSpeed steering rack lock stops it is.

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[jwest]

Would it be overkill if I picked up 1.5" spacers in terms of the amount wheel that would be poking out beneath the fender flares?

The spacers most people use are 30mm, not 1.5" which would be 38mm, and yes, with a 275 width tire, look cool as hell but poke out such that you'll be the ***** on a trail when the tire won't stuff into the fender liner at all as it grinds into the upper fender edge.

A rule of thumb is that if you're playing with 20" wheels on an lr4, you are not likely to be in terrain that requires the fake rod lift. The same "lift" can be had at any time in 2 minutes via "extended mode" without using the rods or any other aftermarket mods.

 

[jwest]

I didn't buy the rods as they already came installed on the vehicle at the time of purchase, as were the wheels/tires. I guess for the mean time, ProSpeed steering rack lock stops it is.

Thanks for everyone's input.

I see. What tire is it? BFG makes an at ko in that size and I bet it would rub the horns.-nevermind, just saw your sig. with the nittos. Yeah, doesn't surprise me they rub. The horn removal was one of the very first things I did.

You could just cut the horns off and bolt in place a cover plate.