Hey there so it’s been a year (close enough) since those occurred and in that time I never wound up replacing the alternator and once I started driving longer distances the battery system was maintaining proper charge and the voltage was at an appropriate level on it’s own.
The dynamic power...
Thanks! I did wind up exchanging the tires for KO2s but the size remained the same. I’m running an LT 265/65r18 and the wheels have an ET44 offset which should match OEM spec. I’ve had no issues with them and no clearance problems. Super happy with the setup.
I have as of yet gone forward with getting one, though it would have been handy recently as I picked up multiple screws a couple weeks back and ruined one of my fairly new KO2s. It was replaced under warranty but I had to fish out my spare and I was immediately regretting NOT having the carrier...
They’re an LT, E rated tire vs the XL rated tires that came with the LR4 so it is preferable to increase overall pressure.
When I talked to BFG they relayed that based on the weight per axle they recommended 42-48psi for the front and 48-55psi for the rear for on-road driving. So I chose the...
Yeah if you see in my screenshot with the IID app I had the spare disabled and the TPMS system disabled as per GAP's instructions. But it was still reporting an issue despite being disabled. I discovered that I also had to set the Setting 1 from WBL to None and that has now cleared the issue. So...
I’m so sorry to start another thread but I have a GAP question.
For context I picked up two large screws in one of my fairly new KO2s yesterday and as a result I swapped in my 5th wheel while the shop replaced my tire. The 5th wheel did not have a TPMS sensor but the other 4 do. As expected...
For sure, I had noted earlier in the thread that the day prior I put it on my charger overnight and had a 100% charge and it depleted quickly.
However, as of today it’s back up to about 80% on its own though still reporting that 12.7v reading. So I’ll continue to monitor and see how it goes. I...
That's fair to say. The original concern I had was that my brand new battery was seemingly not fully charged and my truck was not reporting 13v+ while running. My truck did already have an H8 size battery but it was a flooded type, 760CCA and pretty old, I replaced it with an H8 AGM 900CCA...
I’m not certain if the slight tach flutter I’m seeing is related to the shudder or not but the way you described yours and the conditions in which it presents itself sounds exactly like what I’m experiencing.
The conditions you describe pretty much exactly align with what I’m experiencing in my 5.0 V8 ( My post got linked to above). I’ve not yet discovered the cause but I’ve been systematically checking things and servicing what I find.
I’ve not yet had the torque converter or transmission fully...
Presumably it’s still the original as I can’t find any documentation of it being replaced, so it’s at 144k miles.
Interestingly as I dig through the history between 2015-2018 it was brought in for Battery/Electrical work 6 times. If anything was replaced at those points it wasn’t called out...
Yeah I left it completely untouched after locking the vehicle this morning. Nothing was done until I unlocked it this afternoon so it was as "asleep" as I could let it be for that timeframe. I'll have to go to Autozone and have them test the battery then since it came from them. I'm tempted to...
FWIW I just tested again after the truck has sat undriven for 6 hours and the voltage of the new battery was still 12.2V. All that being said, it starts right up with no hesitation so I'd like to think it's "fine". But I will try digging around in the workshop manual (though it's hard to do on...
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