They’re an LT, E rated tire vs the XL rated tires that came with the LR4 so it is preferable to increase overall pressure.
When I talked to BFG they relayed that based on the weight per axle they recommended 42-48psi for the front and 48-55psi for the rear for on-road driving. So I chose the...
Yeah if you see in my screenshot with the IID app I had the spare disabled and the TPMS system disabled as per GAP's instructions. But it was still reporting an issue despite being disabled. I discovered that I also had to set the Setting 1 from WBL to None and that has now cleared the issue. So...
I’m so sorry to start another thread but I have a GAP question.
For context I picked up two large screws in one of my fairly new KO2s yesterday and as a result I swapped in my 5th wheel while the shop replaced my tire. The 5th wheel did not have a TPMS sensor but the other 4 do. As expected...
For sure, I had noted earlier in the thread that the day prior I put it on my charger overnight and had a 100% charge and it depleted quickly.
However, as of today it’s back up to about 80% on its own though still reporting that 12.7v reading. So I’ll continue to monitor and see how it goes. I...
That's fair to say. The original concern I had was that my brand new battery was seemingly not fully charged and my truck was not reporting 13v+ while running. My truck did already have an H8 size battery but it was a flooded type, 760CCA and pretty old, I replaced it with an H8 AGM 900CCA...
I’m not certain if the slight tach flutter I’m seeing is related to the shudder or not but the way you described yours and the conditions in which it presents itself sounds exactly like what I’m experiencing.
The conditions you describe pretty much exactly align with what I’m experiencing in my 5.0 V8 ( My post got linked to above). I’ve not yet discovered the cause but I’ve been systematically checking things and servicing what I find.
I’ve not yet had the torque converter or transmission fully...
Presumably it’s still the original as I can’t find any documentation of it being replaced, so it’s at 144k miles.
Interestingly as I dig through the history between 2015-2018 it was brought in for Battery/Electrical work 6 times. If anything was replaced at those points it wasn’t called out...
Yeah I left it completely untouched after locking the vehicle this morning. Nothing was done until I unlocked it this afternoon so it was as "asleep" as I could let it be for that timeframe. I'll have to go to Autozone and have them test the battery then since it came from them. I'm tempted to...
FWIW I just tested again after the truck has sat undriven for 6 hours and the voltage of the new battery was still 12.2V. All that being said, it starts right up with no hesitation so I'd like to think it's "fine". But I will try digging around in the workshop manual (though it's hard to do on...
Overnight voltage was 12v but I’ll check again after driving and letting it rest 6 hours specifically.
Mind you this is a brand new battery, which is why I was wanting to make sure it’s behaving correctly.
Super educational response thank you! I’ve only been using a local Land Rover shop but I do have at least 6 dealers in my area. I’ve not used them as of yet, just my local shop. But yes it might be worth having someone test just to rule things out (and ideally not add to my growing list of...
That’s fair, I suppose my concern is that I don’t know what to trust as to whether the battery IS fully charged or not. I left it on my charger for 10 hours today and in the initial driving I was doing it was a consistent 14.5v, perfect, but then on my way back home it’s back to 12.2-12.7v
So...
Hm! So even if the voltage is reporting lower than what it “should” be, it’s still ok? I have it connected to my charger right now and it shows 100% though when I started it up yesterday it was definitely reading lower.
I guess I just want to be sure it’s not gonna crap out suddenly. I do at...
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