I went with the B4 OE replacement. Performance seems fine. As I mentioned, the original strut appears fine when I disassembled the it so I really didn't notice much difference. Can't beat the price though.
Looks like you got it all done. Nice work. In hindsight; the only thing I would have done differently first time around was to test the assembled strut before reinstall.
I went to the trouble of buying a schrader valve this time, connected it to piece of airline, inserted that into the voss...
The vehicle wasn't driving like it used to. Felt a little 'wallowy' for lack of a better term. I've owned it for 8 years/70K miles so I know how it's supposed to handle.
Car has a total of 140K miles on it now.
I had previously replaced both rear strut/bags with OEM (BWI) due to a leak in one of...
To loop back on this, the o-rings were fine. I had a leaky bag (or I introduced a leak when I rebuilt).
Got a junkyard bag to fit my new strut and now all is good again.
For the third bolt, notch the bracket while it’s off the car. Then put the nut on the bolt, screw it in a thread or two and slide the notched bracket into place. Finish by tightening up the bolt with a long ratchet.
If you're going as far as replacing the VCG's, you may as well reseal the timing cover while you're in there. If it's the pax timing cover it will destroy your alternator. Ask me how I know :).
Also be aware that the valve covers can warp over time and the gaskets alone will not fix the leak. If...
Thanks for the feedback.
Before going the junkyard route; I decided to try some 'clutch in a can' anti shudder magic go-go juice and it's resolved my issues (for now).
I'll keep driving it for now and see what my options are down the line. Thanks all.
I recently replaced my front struts and reused the air springs as they were in good shape. The reseal kit came with 2 large o-rings that fit around the outside of the collar that mates the strut to the bag.
That collar has 2 more inner o-rings that I had to re-use.
Anyway - looks like I've...
’ve been having some issues with the transmission on my 2011 LR4 (147k miles). Started after hauling a heavy trailer for a day.
I have some rpm hunting across different gears as well as some shudder. Did a fluid change along with a full valve body service (sonnax kit, new solenoids, reset...
Thanks. I’m not against replacing the entire cooling system per se. I’m just not sure what that really means. Coolant pump, thermostat housing, radiator and front crossover pipe seem to be in order. But I’m trying to figure out the myriad of rubber hoses and plastic parts in real terms. Like...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.