Two INCHES taller? Pretty sure that won't fit.
I'm not sure why most people would need any more than the H8/49 unless spending a lot of time running high-consumption accessories when parked for hours or days out of the sun.
;)
Unless there is significant oil in the cooling system, and/or corrosion, I'd avoid using cooling system "cleaners" entirely. Fill/drain a couple of times to flush with water before the final fill with 50/50 mix of OE/dealer antifreeze, which is not expensive, and it's not an item I'd opt to save...
This. ^^^
If you are either DIY'er, or plan to go offroad, it would be HIGHLY recommended.
If the truck never leaves the city and you hand the dealership blank checks, meh, you can probably live without it.
I can't afford to pay the dealer, I don't trust most indy shops, and I'm full DIY...
I don't think this is accurate. Assuming you are talking about aftermarket LED lights, they may not be entirely plug+play, the color may be different but not necessarily improve visibility. What color temperature LED's are you considering? Anything more than ~5000K won't help you see at night...
Hey, the LR4 has a hardwire iPod input in the center console! That's all we needed. Our entire music catalog is on an iPod that remains in the truck at all times. The standard stereo sounds pretty decent, although I'd like to hear the fancy version with subwoofer offered in LUX (?) models.
We...
There's no reason any given mileage is "the end of the road". With proper maintenance these trucks should run a very long time. The number of people with over 200kmi (in less than 10 years) says a lot, IMO. It's not like this is the 1970's where 200k meant the vehicle was worn out.
:albertein
That is bizarre. Temperature should be controlled by the thermostat, so even if the fan is on all the time, it should reach operating temp rapidly.
:eek:
Has anyone correlated the plastic failures with coolant change interval? This almost looks like the pH of the coolant could be causing issues with the plastic, due to time, not miles.
Price will vary dramatically depending on who is doing the work (dealer, indy shop, DIY) and the engine source (used, rebuilt, or new).
A used engine installed as DIY could be under $10k ($6k-$8k for the engine, plus misc parts/fluids, and dozens of hours of your labor).
Anything else, ±$15k...
Thanks for the photo - very helpful! I can see the difference on all 3. Is the LR tool OE or aftermarket?
Also - does this mean JLR used a unique, non-industry-standard driver for the head bolts on this AJ133 engine?!!!
o_O
Coolant manifolds sounds like the plastic pipes we are discussing above. Same part, different name.
Although I do wonder what "crossovers" she thought you were referring to.
o_O
Crap. Yet another part to buy. At least I haven't installed the front & rear coolant pipes I bought last year. I want to do 1 large job, not 10 small ones. Thanks for the info!
:(
I have no idea. The Foxwell being able to do this for <$200 was news to me. It would have to be a tool with JLR-specific software (similar to Foxwell/Schwaben). No generic OBD-2 reader will have capability to clone keys.
Makes me wonder what else Foxwell can (or can't) do vs the ±$500 GAP IID...
Glad you got the eBay fob working. Remember that if the fob battery dies, the "emergency" starting function described in the owner's manual will not work. You MUST have a good fob battery for the reprogrammed eBay key.
For the metal door key, you can buy them from the dealer pre-cut for your...
It's the factory Land Rover manual, ~265MB PDF file. Should be a link somewhere on the forum to download it.
The manual states that a torque multiplier capable of 600Nm is required to achieve the 270° rotation. Or a 3/4" breaker bar with cheater pipe.
Dumb question: Isn't the same lock required to tighten the crank bolt? Nevermind, I see there are complicated tools (303-1437, 303-1438) in the FSM which appears to use the pulley bolts and external bracing, so there is no torque applied through the crankshaft. I'd try a high-torque impact...
Slots or dimples rarely cause issues of any sort, and no cracking either.
Drilled rotors can sometimes crack at the rotors, although this does not automatically mean the rotor must be replaced. However for non-racing use, there is not much point to drilled rotors, particularly on a 3-ton truck...
Why exactly is the dealer saying your engine is junk? Tearing it down yourself is a good start, btw.
You should post a new thread for the shop recommendation, not many people are going to see your post here.
Thanks for the photo, that is helpful. I don't think that is fixable... those threads are munched pretty good.
I don't know how the inboard side is retained, but since we can't access the inboard end (AFAIK), I suspect it simply presses out? Other forum members who have actually done the job...
OE is typically superior in longevity and reduced emissions, not power output.
While I can't comment on LR4 cats specifically, for some other marques, replacing a cheap converter every few years ends up being more expensive than buying a good one up front.
I still want to see an answer to...
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