In general, this type of process is for rapid bedding... i.e., for race cars on a closed course, where they can't putt around with light braking for extended periods. I've done both. I prefer the slow & steady method. I once had a bad result with the rapid, hot & hard method. Never had an issue...
JLR specified 0W-20 viscosity to meet ever-tightening government fuel economy regs. If you don't have to shoo penguins away from your LR4 before starting it, there's no need to use 0W-20. Otherwise there's little if any benefit besides a ±0.13% improvement in fuel economy.
5W-20 is fine, if you...
There are multiple different compounds of "Greens", as ktm25 noted in post #9. The compound varies by vehicle application. EBC would probably not offer a pad for the LR4 that was inadequate for the weight of the vehicle. That said, @keya, please let us know how they work long term - particularly...
25 years is long enough to have some decent changes in infrastructure.
But less than 10 years (UK) and less than 15 years (California) is going to be a lot more difficult to achieve. I doubt either of those target dates will be hit.
:goodnight
Magnesium is part of the oil's additive package, similar to zinc, phosphorus, and moly. Mobil-1 has much lower calcium and higher magnesium. Nothing to worry about here.
You want to monitor wear metals, and if using extended drain intervals, TBN.
I use Mobil Accutrack analysis, which shows...
I have the older Pittsburgh-branded version of that jack. It works great for a fraction of the price of a big-name jack (like AC Hydraulic jacks, made in Denmark, which I'd have if I could afford 'em).
No need to open a door, but I think the idea behind having the truck in off-road mode, is...
Factory manual says to put suspension in off-road mode (highest position) before jacking any wheels off the ground. Make sure you have a high-lift jack.
The "Service Required" reminder can be reset with the IID GAP tool, if you don't have it yet, you'll need it if you plan on DIY repairs. Otherwise you'll have the reminder appearing at every start.
Oil leak you describe sounds very much like the vacuum pump. BT, DT. You can attempt to re-seal...
This. ^^^
Especially for those of us who are out of warranty, and/or DIY'ing the repair and can't go back to the indy shop if it dies in 11 months. FCP Euro's lifetime warranty is fabulous, but if you have to replace the water pump annually, is it worth it?
Exactly. There's no incentive for a...
A word of caution... in general, avoid ÜRO parts like the plague. Don't take my word for it, Google for more info, read first-hand accounts. In the German parts world, they are known as the worst of the worst. Their Rover parts will not be any better. The most frequent complaint is short...
I believe Ferodo is the OEM for the factory LR pads.
Remanufactured calipers often lack the original coating/painting, as they are stripped (media blasted?), taken apart, and have the soft parts replaced. But the donor caliper will be OE, and generally you return your OE calipers for a core...
1) Drive a couple of LR4 models for comparison. I think the extra power makes a huge difference. Others may not care. I never even considered the LR3 as I felt 300hp/315tq was not adequate for the base 5600+lbs, let alone towing anything heavy.
2) I'm not sure I'd consider the items mentioned...
You really need more information about what they are doing. As mentioned by djkaosone, there's a big difference between dumping a can of juice in the fuel tank, vs connecting pro equipment to the fuel rail. $129 sounds more like the former but you won't know until you ask. Ditto for the PS...
I don't trust the "miles remaining" at all, partly because it doesn't start a countdown until the reserve light illuminates. AND, I don't trust the reserve light either. After I ran out of gas one time (thankfully, within sight of a gas station) I started watching these like a hawk. I found the...
Fuel trim percentages may vary with altitude, possibly more so with normally aspirated engines (V8, not SCV6). Numbers at sea level may be different than at higher elevations. 1-3% seems stupid low to me and totally normal. I'd be more concerned if the numbers were double digits, or drastically...
Our LR4 came with Toyo H/T OpenCountry (245-55-19) with ~7kmi on them, when we bought the truck used in early 2017. 10kmi later (~15k on tires) they are still fine, at least for pavement use. Dunno how well they work off-road.
IIRC, the gauge is not absolute. It requires a calibration when the oil is changed, so it "knows" what "full" is, then bases readings off that. So, unless you've followed the procedure in the factory manual, there's no guarantee the reading displayed is accurate. Also, I've found what I drain...
In the Mercedes world, the datacard for each VIN is easily available online, for free. It shows engine & trans serial numbers, paint and interior color codes with descriptions, and a complete list of the optional equipment codes / descriptions. Plus the delivery country and approximate build...
Shame there's no active admin to merge these two threads.
https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/topix-now-requires-paid-subscription-for-vin-information.42209/
That gasket is not sold separately. And, I was afraid to remove the front cover lest I damage something, or springs fly out, etc. What I did was apply a bead of sealant all around the front cover seam. This is messy, ugly, and more difficult than it sounds. My first attempts only achieved ±80%...
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