Yup! But since I can't tell, I don't care! :D
I clean the wheels when the truck gets washed, but I'd rather have dirty black wheels than have to look at dirty silver wheels (or, have to clean silver wheels constantly). Low-dust, poor-performing pads are not an option I'm willing to compromise...
I'm late to the party here, but in addition to what everyone else said about yellow flags... I'd recommend paying for the best extended warranty you can find. Like, immediately, while you still can.
If there is no record of the water pump or crossover pipes being replaced, consider doing that...
I'm going through this right now, after a year or two of intermittent "only normal height available" messages. Similar symptoms with the compressor "working hard" after a minute or two running. IID tool shows fault code C1A20-64(6C), "Pressure too slow filling". Compressor and motor temps climb...
I have stock wheels which the PO had painted (or powder coated) black. Brake dust is invisible even with the OE/OEM Ferodo pads.
As mentioned previously, be careful about switching pad compounds. For light duty ceramics might be ok, but for severe duty, you may not want ceramics.
As a DIY'er, I wouldn't fear high miles, as long as there was a stack of maintenance records. But if you have to pay an indy shop, or - gasp - the dealer, that could be an expensive proposition.
Nearing 125k on our 2010, btw.
:)
This. ^^^
Just because all gas stations in a given area get fuel from the same storage tanks at the distributor, DOES NOT mean they all have the same stuff. Each brand has a unique additive package. You might as well claim that all engine oil is the same too. Not using gasoline that is at a...
Thanks! I registered and tried a couple of VIN's. Bummer it doesn't show code numbers for each "minor option" to easily look for certain items. Wish I knew about this when I was shopping back in 2017!
:rock:
ktm is correct. It's not simple.
With synthetics, cold flow is excellent. Even a 10W-40 full synthetic would probably be fine during cold starts in NYC winters. However as noted above, you generally want to keep the viscosity spread as narrow as possible. And stay as close to the factory...
As mentioned above, do NOT follow the factory recommendation of 15k oil changes. Intervals in the 5k-7k range for normal service are cheap insurance. Adjust as needed for severe service (city driving, towing, offroading) or light service (thousands of miles cruising on the highway).
:cool:
You may want to search the forum for past discussions on the lower control arms / bushings. There are multiple options, you need to decide which is best for your situation / usage.
Same here - very positive experience, 125kmi now (purchased @ 111k in early 2017).
Interesting. On paper, the V6 shouldn't feel horribly underpowered. but it's also possible that the engine wasn't producing normal power levels, which is always a possibility on forced-induction motors...
Phil, sorry I didn't see this sooner. If a fully charged good battery were to have voltage drop below 10V, the load would have to be something over 400A, and you would have had a massive fireworks display when you tried connecting the terminals.
What likely happened was a shorted cell, which...
Should be fine, assuming it's full synthetic, and you are changing by 5kmi.
BTW, how long have you been doing the FCP warranty exchange for oil? I've always wondered how they can do that and not lose money. Guess not many people take them up on it...
:cool:
Not all synthetics are the same. For standard drain intervals, the difference doesn't matter. But when you are pushing to 15k or beyond, it does matter.
That report does look very good. I still wouldn't want to go much beyond ~15k though.
Note that Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30 is top-of-the-line stuff, Group IV/V synthetic, specifically designed for extended drain intervals. Don't try this with cheap oil...
MicroCat is the only official parts diagram tool that you can completely trust. ALL the online sites may have incomplete or incorrect information, but should be ok for general use, looking up common items.
Here's another online dealer in FL, free shipping on most orders over $99...
Beck-Arnley is primarily a reboxer. I'm not sure if they actually make anything.
Be very, VERY careful with ÜRO parts. Google them and read the horror stories. Some forums have long-running threads devoted to stories with photos showing part failures shortly after installation. I wouldn't...
I didn't see much commentary on this... the 130 is the long wheelbase / extended version, correct? Will this take care of the complaints about reduced cargo space and smaller 3rd row, vs the LR4? Just curious.
We plan to keep the LR4 as long as possible, but maybe 10 years from now a 130...
Oh, and J_MLR3... if the spark plugs are original, it may not hurt to replace them after 8 years / 70kmi. If buying the plugs yourself, only buy from a reputable vendor (not Amazon/eBay) to avoid getting counterfeits.
Costco gas is Top Tier licensed, which is what you want... only use Top Tier...
While we're tossing out recommendations for injector cleaner added to the tank, Red Line SI-1 is my personal favorite, although BG also has excellent products (with rather high prices). There might be one or two other "good" ones, but most other injector cleaners - especially less expensive ones...
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