I remember being good about scrolling through the pictures quickly looking for the buttons near the shift dial. There was nothing more maddening than seeing an ad with "HSE Lux, all the options" only to see that there's no HD.
I'd probably make a quick check for an intake leak and if I didn't find anything my next move would be new MAF sensors.
I doubt it is exhaust related because the fuel trims on each bank are moving together. Same goes for fuel injectors.
If you want to get real hacky before buying parts a...
My decision tree has evolved from emptying the parts bazooka at the problem to doing a combination of things that are low effort and cheap.
Check the intake pipe first. Easiest thing to do and is free. If it has a crack you could fix it for less than a dollars worth of electrical tape.
If your fuel trim is positive that indicates that your O2 sensor thinks the motor is running lean.
Check the intake between the MAFs and throttle body for cracks. Fuel system treatment might help if an injector is a little clogged. A slight exhaust leak could also present as a lean condition...
There's nothing external. There's some plastic item in the block that has something to do with the flow. I can't remember the name though. Doesn't show up on the engine block parts diagram. Hopefully someone else can be a little more helpful.
Depends on your budget, last time I looked a new denso was over $500. I'd probably check the life on the brushes. If they look good still I'd hit it with compressed air and some electronics cleaner.
Based on the amount of rust, I'm going to guess that it is original.
During reassembly after putting in the remanufactured motor I looked at those two plastic splash panels for a few hours trying to figure out the orientation.
For one of my other vehicles I found a company that made a slick mount that used a T20 screw hidden behind a bezel. A couple days ago I grabbed a plastic pry bar to pop the hand rest trim off so I could start thinking.
I bent up some paper board to model it. Traced that onto a piece of 22ga...
Poke around in the "service/test" menu you should find a fuel priming function.
Run the truck until it dies. If it won't restart run the fuel priming function and try again. You should be able to hear the pump prime.
Order an aftermarket coolant cap and epoxy/ silicone an air compressor ****** onto it. Dial your compressor up to 25-30 psi and start spraying soapy water on everything.
After you do the spark plugs, pull them back out and visually inspect them after several miles.
Computer in these is pretty good at detecting a misfire. Cleaning the throttle body is a good free option. If I were to start reaching for the parts cannon, I'd order new air flow sensors first...
I saw a FFRR with the SCV8 for what my broken brain thought was a reasonable asking amount. Did you ever consider going in the other direction? Swap in the two speed transfer case into a FFRR and get custom drive shafts.
High pressure fuel pump cam shaft is designed to only rotate in the one direction. It can become out of sync if rotated the wrong way. I'm sure Land Rover has a special tool you can pop in the access hole for the torque converter.
12.9 is just the bolt strength rating.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.