Our LR4 came with Toyo H/T OpenCountry (245-55-19) with ~7kmi on them, when we bought the truck used in early 2017. 10kmi later (~15k on tires) they are still fine, at least for pavement use. Dunno how well they work off-road.
IIRC, the gauge is not absolute. It requires a calibration when the oil is changed, so it "knows" what "full" is, then bases readings off that. So, unless you've followed the procedure in the factory manual, there's no guarantee the reading displayed is accurate. Also, I've found what I drain...
In the Mercedes world, the datacard for each VIN is easily available online, for free. It shows engine & trans serial numbers, paint and interior color codes with descriptions, and a complete list of the optional equipment codes / descriptions. Plus the delivery country and approximate build...
Shame there's no active admin to merge these two threads.
https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/topix-now-requires-paid-subscription-for-vin-information.42209/
That gasket is not sold separately. And, I was afraid to remove the front cover lest I damage something, or springs fly out, etc. What I did was apply a bead of sealant all around the front cover seam. This is messy, ugly, and more difficult than it sounds. My first attempts only achieved ±80%...
I believe this is legal, at least in most states. It's also how dealers don't count themselves as an "owner" when claiming 1-owner, 2-owner, etc. But when they drive it for a year or two and sell as 1-owner, that's not cool. (Not that this applies to this particular vehicle.)
Yes, an oil...
Correct, the 2nd owner is the current owner, who is a dealer. The concern is this:
"...Fast forward to almost 2.5 years later and the vehicle developed a misfire on cylinder #2. The vehicle had developed a combustion leak, where coolant was leaking into that particular cylinder and the owner...
So... was the coolant leak into cyl #2 ever fixed? May be worth paying for a PPI at the dealer or indy shop. And hope someone didn't just put a bottle of stop-leak in to dump the truck, and engine problem, on someone else.
Also, a second owner calling "quite some time ago" does not align with...
Thanks for all this info, and the link to a proper gasket! I've not yet done the conversion to the metal pan with separate filter, and one of the reasons I was reluctant was the crappy paper gasket supplied. I've dealt with those in the past, they are too leak-prone with a stamped-steel item...
Keep in mind that alternators have TWO ratings. One is peak output at a specified RPM. The other is the output at idle RPM. This will vary somewhat depending on the pulley size. Often, "high output" alternators sacrifice idle output, in exchange for peak output.
If you need more current while...
Same here - mine still works fine (so far at 125k), but was leaking substantially at the seam of the outer steel cover. Prior to reading this thread, I didn't know they could fail and suck oil into the engine. Ugh. Had I known this, I probably would have just replaced the stupid thing.
:musicus:
Oh yeah, the first time, I spent probably an hour trying to separate the quick connect plastic tube, thinking the red clip had to pry outward. Somehow, I managed not to break it, and eventually figured out you PRESS INWARD on the red thingy, to release the plastic pipe. DUH!
everyone else-->...
It appears that "decoder" just shows generic model info, not VIN-specific data. The VIN above did not show me what color paint, what color interior, options, or anything else I'd want to know when shopping for a truck. (Not a car.)
Tried my VIN with the same results. Got a list of colors...
For you folks who have replaced the vacuum pump... did you drain the oil pan first? If no, did any oil leak out?
The factory manual is vague and seems to imply the sump should be empty before removing the vacuum pump. But the pump sits high enough that it looks like it would be above the oil...
Thanks for the link! I didn't have version 3 of that TSB. :)
There's a date code (2-digit year) cast into the Hitachi cylinder head, shown below. Mine was original from 2010, replacement produced circa 2019. Not sure if the 6-digit number on the end plate is also a date code. Mine was still...
Yup. Best I could tell, there was no significant advantage to the AMK, and the AMK required some re-plumbing (not a big deal, but a nuisance). Sounded like LR switched from Hitachi to AMK due to manufacturing supply constraints during LR4 production? Possibly due to factory shutdown related to a...
There weren't many detailed photos of the Hitachi, so I took some pics of my new one. ~$600 delivered from RM European. The AMK looks completely different.
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/LR072537-MFG476.aspx
Hitachi CMP0001, equivalent to LR # LR072537 or LR023964, metal mounting bracket...
At some tracks, you are forced to pull through the waterbox (puddle) as there may not be room to drive around it, if you want to keep your tires dry. Mission Raceway in Canada (eh!) is like that. Thankfully, Firebird has plenty of room for street vehicles to drive around the water if desired...
LOL! Not a chance. The LR4 is too heavy, and has too much grip. The track surface can - at times - literally pull your shoes off your feet, it's so sticky. I'm not even sure if the LR4 can spin all four tires on wet pavement. Hmm, I may have to try that. :D
Faster, 2-wheel drive cars often do...
Our latest (125kmi) UOA is attached. Wear metals still look great, iron is down again, but it was a shorter interval again (4k vs 7k, vs 10k originally). TBN was a little lower than I'd like for a short interval but not of concern unless trying for extended intervals, which I'm not.
This was...
I've also had bad experiences with poly on other vehicles. I too would be very, very wary of installing poly on the LR4 if the intended use is primarily on pavement. For off-roading, sure, poly would be great.
That said - in general, avoid Meyle like the plague. They are not a highly-regarded...
Got some pics, see below.
The "cold start" was with the compressor at room temperature (~35C), also note the motor is relatively cool, but the compressor head temp is high. This photo was seconds before cutoff, which was around 257psi / 125C compressor.
The "hot start" was after driving a bit...
Correct - it could be a leak somewhere, that I'm not finding. This is what I'm trying to figure out. AFAIK there is only one pressure sensor, at the main valve block. I don't think there's any way to test it other than just replacing it and seeing if there is any change.
There is no fault code...
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