Update on my compressor replacement... while the fault went away, I think the new compressor is just masking the root cause of the problem. But I need data from other vehicles for comparison.
More details in a separate thread here...
For those of you with a GAP IID tool, have you ever watched the live values for the air compressor (gallery pressure, compressor temperature, and motor temperature) as the compressor runs after starting the engine? Or, after lowering to access height and then raising to off-road height?
My...
It's a 2010 LR4. And the pressure is definitely 245-250psi max.
Are you sure about the LR4 max pressure being reduced? I've not read that before. The FSM has conflicting info (see below), first it says compressor max pressure is 16.8 bar (244psi) but the reservoir has working pressure above...
75k does seem like a reasonable number. I wonder what the "record" lifespans are.
Sadly, I have minimal records from the 1 previous owner of my rig. It had the pump replaced under warranty at 50k, and there's a Carfax record which mentions another replacement at ~105k by an indy shop, but I...
What's the expected life in years or miles for the water pump, front pipe, and rear pipe?
Seems like it might be good preventive maintenance to replace the blasted things every X miles/years, before they fail.
:2in1:
Yup! But since I can't tell, I don't care! :D
I clean the wheels when the truck gets washed, but I'd rather have dirty black wheels than have to look at dirty silver wheels (or, have to clean silver wheels constantly). Low-dust, poor-performing pads are not an option I'm willing to compromise...
I'm late to the party here, but in addition to what everyone else said about yellow flags... I'd recommend paying for the best extended warranty you can find. Like, immediately, while you still can.
If there is no record of the water pump or crossover pipes being replaced, consider doing that...
I'm going through this right now, after a year or two of intermittent "only normal height available" messages. Similar symptoms with the compressor "working hard" after a minute or two running. IID tool shows fault code C1A20-64(6C), "Pressure too slow filling". Compressor and motor temps climb...
I have stock wheels which the PO had painted (or powder coated) black. Brake dust is invisible even with the OE/OEM Ferodo pads.
As mentioned previously, be careful about switching pad compounds. For light duty ceramics might be ok, but for severe duty, you may not want ceramics.
As a DIY'er, I wouldn't fear high miles, as long as there was a stack of maintenance records. But if you have to pay an indy shop, or - gasp - the dealer, that could be an expensive proposition.
Nearing 125k on our 2010, btw.
:)
This. ^^^
Just because all gas stations in a given area get fuel from the same storage tanks at the distributor, DOES NOT mean they all have the same stuff. Each brand has a unique additive package. You might as well claim that all engine oil is the same too. Not using gasoline that is at a...
Thanks! I registered and tried a couple of VIN's. Bummer it doesn't show code numbers for each "minor option" to easily look for certain items. Wish I knew about this when I was shopping back in 2017!
:rock:
ktm is correct. It's not simple.
With synthetics, cold flow is excellent. Even a 10W-40 full synthetic would probably be fine during cold starts in NYC winters. However as noted above, you generally want to keep the viscosity spread as narrow as possible. And stay as close to the factory...
As mentioned above, do NOT follow the factory recommendation of 15k oil changes. Intervals in the 5k-7k range for normal service are cheap insurance. Adjust as needed for severe service (city driving, towing, offroading) or light service (thousands of miles cruising on the highway).
:cool:
You may want to search the forum for past discussions on the lower control arms / bushings. There are multiple options, you need to decide which is best for your situation / usage.
Same here - very positive experience, 125kmi now (purchased @ 111k in early 2017).
Interesting. On paper, the V6 shouldn't feel horribly underpowered. but it's also possible that the engine wasn't producing normal power levels, which is always a possibility on forced-induction motors...
Phil, sorry I didn't see this sooner. If a fully charged good battery were to have voltage drop below 10V, the load would have to be something over 400A, and you would have had a massive fireworks display when you tried connecting the terminals.
What likely happened was a shorted cell, which...
Should be fine, assuming it's full synthetic, and you are changing by 5kmi.
BTW, how long have you been doing the FCP warranty exchange for oil? I've always wondered how they can do that and not lose money. Guess not many people take them up on it...
:cool:
Not all synthetics are the same. For standard drain intervals, the difference doesn't matter. But when you are pushing to 15k or beyond, it does matter.
That report does look very good. I still wouldn't want to go much beyond ~15k though.
Note that Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30 is top-of-the-line stuff, Group IV/V synthetic, specifically designed for extended drain intervals. Don't try this with cheap oil...
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