MicroCat is the only official parts diagram tool that you can completely trust. ALL the online sites may have incomplete or incorrect information, but should be ok for general use, looking up common items.
Here's another online dealer in FL, free shipping on most orders over $99...
Beck-Arnley is primarily a reboxer. I'm not sure if they actually make anything.
Be very, VERY careful with ÜRO parts. Google them and read the horror stories. Some forums have long-running threads devoted to stories with photos showing part failures shortly after installation. I wouldn't...
I didn't see much commentary on this... the 130 is the long wheelbase / extended version, correct? Will this take care of the complaints about reduced cargo space and smaller 3rd row, vs the LR4? Just curious.
We plan to keep the LR4 as long as possible, but maybe 10 years from now a 130...
Oh, and J_MLR3... if the spark plugs are original, it may not hurt to replace them after 8 years / 70kmi. If buying the plugs yourself, only buy from a reputable vendor (not Amazon/eBay) to avoid getting counterfeits.
Costco gas is Top Tier licensed, which is what you want... only use Top Tier...
While we're tossing out recommendations for injector cleaner added to the tank, Red Line SI-1 is my personal favorite, although BG also has excellent products (with rather high prices). There might be one or two other "good" ones, but most other injector cleaners - especially less expensive ones...
At least your batteries are under warranty. If you have to replace again out of pocket, try a Group 49/H8, preferably AGM.
Could you elaborate on why you say the battery is "starting to die again"? Is the engine cranking slow, etc? What are the symptoms?
Of course I can't find any articles at the moment, but in Mercedes land where plastic radiator tanks have been used for decades, there has been speculation that plastic components are affected by both the "wrong" antifreeze in use (MB specs G-05 or G-48 for pretty much everything since the early...
And this goes back to "there is no one-size-fits-all" statement. Depends on the specific engine and lots of other variables. As a long-time Mercedes owner, I remember the discussion & debate when Mobil-1 0W-40 came out. Some engines had annoying hydraulic lifter ticking noises with that oil...
This is also correct. The narrower the spread between numbers, generally it means less VI's, and more shear stable. I didn't want to get too deep into the weeds, but I feel the same way, and it's another reason I'm sticking with 5W-20 (Red Line) for my engine, at least until I find a reason to...
Ugh. I'm familiar with the BLUEtec fiasco on the OM642 in the Sprinters, and passenger vehicles. That's sort of apples & oranges though. I assume you've read the info from the guy who has a conspiracy theory on those issues, and has written multiple articles about it (link). I don't entirely...
It's my opinion that pretty much any time a water-thin oil is specified... and any time it's squeezed even thinner, like the move from 5W-20 to 0W-20... it's almost entirely for fuel economy reasons. Governments are continually tightening the screws on mfr's, pushing them to ever-higher MPG...
Wish we needed a second LR4. If this had the Lux package with black interior we might do something stupid. :D
Brian, it may help if you posted more photos (interior too) and the VIN for people who want to pull a Carfax/AutoCheck, or look up the options...
:call:
Forgot to mention that FCP Euro "lifetime warranty" is amazing. I don't know how they can do it, but it includes consumables like brake rotors, pads, and even engine oil & filters. (!!) For anyone who burns through brakes, this might be worthwhile in the long run, and will apply to OE/Genuine...
There has been a lot of discussion about brake pads+rotors in the past. Search the forum and read the old threads. The OEM Ferodo pads are not expensive; EBC are not cheap. Do your homework before switching to ceramics.
Rotors/discs only need replacement if worn below service limit, or damaged...
The 5.0L V8 engine in the LR4 is a Jaguar AJ133 motor... and AFAICT it was a brand-new design, not related to anything Ford had in the 1990's. What Ford motor was it related to?
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a3865/4299169/
There was a Ford "AJ" series of engines prior to this, but...
Note this was on an LR3 with a completely different engine.
The 5.0L V8 Jaguar-designed AJ133 motor in the LR4 has unique issues that don't let it tolerate excessively long drain intervals, especially when not using oil of the correct specification.
Factory manual shows the 5.0L V8 engine as 7500/3750 intervals "Not UK and Europe"... anyone across the pond have a manual which shows the UK/Europe spec?
Aye caramba. *deep breath*
1) USA factory spec for oil change interval is 15kmi for normal service, and 7.5kmi for severe service (towing, city driving, etc). This has generally been considered to be pushing the limits. And it's very interesting JLR only published these numbers for USA.
2)...
Looks to me like it might be a no-name/off-brand replacement motor for models with optional locking diff.
If you are asking if this will somehow upgrade your non-locking diff to locking... nope.
o_O
Biggest drawback to the G-wagen, besides the insane prices, is they don't seat 7 adults comfortably. Yeah, I've seen the rear military-style jump seats for the G, but that's not the same as the LR4 third row.
(and I'm an MB fanboy, lol!)
:D
THRITY NINE inches? Seriously? Wow! I thought the LR4 official wading depth was around 28". Do you have modifications that allow deeper swimming?
:eek:
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