@itsaguything :
The steel pan allows changing the filter without removing the chassis crossmember, saving a ton of work.
I haven't heard of leaks with the steel pan, but there's an aftermarket gasket discussed earlier in this thread that appears more robust than the stock gasket (or...
I believe the ports are different levels. The port on the side of the transmission should be higher than the port on the pan with the stand pipe attached.
Exactly! This is what I was trying to say in previous posts.
I agree, and am curious what ZF has to say.
Use the fill port in the transmission housing. This eliminates all variables and will result in the correct fluid level for the Land Rover application, regardless of any difference in pan volume.
The only question that would remain is if for some reason you really, really want to fill and set...
Ryan is correct. Unless there is a plastic pipe connected above the pan fill/drain port, it's unpossible to fill this way. Mercedes pans can fill from the pan but they use the plastic pipe design, where ZF uses the transmission housing side-port design.
:stupido2:
Can you measure the depth of the plastic pan, and the steel pan? That should confirm if there is a volume difference, although calculating the exact amount will be difficult.
The factory fill-to-spill method at a precise temp (40°C?) will result in the correct fluid level, regardless of pan...
There might be a part number either on the headlight assembly, or on a sticker on the assembly... but that would require knowing which part numbers are which. I'm away from home at the moment and don't have access to Microcat to look up the part numbers.
Any chance you have access to a cooling system pressure tester? If so, pump the system up to about 15psi and you'll probably find the leaks REALLY fast. Some FLAPS/McParts stores may have a free "rental" for the tool (you buy it and return for full refund when done using it), worth checking into...
This is good information - thanks for sharing!
If the aftermarket pipe is inferior enough that it doesn't last a few hundred miles, Atl Brit should stop selling it - period. Maybe they don't know about the failures, you could give them a heads-up.
Was the previous pipe from Atlantic British visibly different, i.e. lacking JLR or FoMoCo markings on it?
When buying parts from aftermarket vendors you must be VERY careful that they aren't selling aftermarket copies when you think you are receiving OE/Genuine JLR parts.
Also keep in mind...
I picked up the John Dow 6-gallon extractor, and it works very well. An air compressor is needed for this to work (a small one is fine). Once nicety is there's a separate hose to empty the tank using low pressure, so you don't have to tilt the whole tank and try not to spill dirty oil. The...
Copying the ad for posterity:
2012 Land Rover lr4 Sport Utility 4D
$6,000
Listed a day ago in Middletown, CT
Driven 283,500 miles
Seller's Description
2011 LR4 HSE has every option available. 5.0 V8. Has been my daily driver for the last year,put 30k miles on it and will continue to go up.Has...
In the past, my justification for higher-cost, higher-quality oil was the ability to go twice the miles on the OCI. When the good stuff was "only" twice the price, the cost was the same either way (actually saving 1 oil filter expense), and saving the 1-2 hours messing with the oil change / oil...
Thanks, Ryan! I haven't researched LR4/AJ133 oils in years, since shortly after I bought the truck in 2017. At the time I started using dealer 5W-20 oil, but the dealer soon only had 0W-20 available so I switched to Red Line. I really like Motul products, might have to give their Specific 948B a...
I didn't realize they had a High Mileage version of the EP. Thanks for the tip!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-Extended-Performance-High-Mileage-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5W-20-5-qt/584989388
Totally agree! I was trying to find a source for Genuine Land Rover oil filters, as the online dealers seem to be vanishing rapidly... the few that remain seem to all have outrageous shipping fees, and none offer free shipping on orders over X dollars. Poking around eBay, I found what appeared...
Finally have an update. We moved in 2022, and racked up a lot of miles on the LR4 while going back & forth multiple times for the move (700 miles each way). And, at our new place, I also didn't have a lift to make oil changes easy via the drain plug method, and I didn't own a vacuum extractor...
I may not be understanding the question. What is the "ABS Procedure"? I did not perform any GAP IID tool procedure before, during, or after. If referring to the "purge cycle" mentioned above, that is not necessary if only replacing brake fluid.
Now, if you have replaced any system components...
You may be overanalyzing the procedure. Here's a modified version of what @ktm525 posted a few years ago:
Step 1: Siphon old fluid out the master cylinder reservoir
Step 2: Refill master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid
Step 3: Fill pressure bleeder with new fluid, connect to master...
The Motive pressure bleeder connects to the brake fluid reservoir, and pressurizes the brake/ABS system through the reservoir. There's no other connection to the brake/ABS system except the screw-on cap.
I also bought the Lemforder LCA's, Made in UK, and appear to be OEM Land Rover with the LR logo removed. Think I posted photos of them on the forum a few years ago. Half the price of Genuine LR.
I paid the dealer to install & align... and still have the intermittent !@#$%! clunking noise from...
I finally did this in September 2021, using a Speedi-Bleed pressure bleeder. Used 1 liter total of Pentosin SL-6 fluid, had zero issues with the bleeding process. Siphoned the reservoir and refilled with new fluid (about 400mL), then extracted 150mL from each wheel.
:stupido3:
Did what yesterday... replaced the vacuum pump?
Forgot to update: I did replace the vac pump in fall 2021. I don't recall any significant amount of oil coming out. It wasn't enough that I had to add oil afterwards. This may vary depending on the level in the sump. I had done an oil change about...
@Adrien, did you see the post at the link below related to the charging system?
https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/lr4-smart-charging-charging-strategy.39878/post-244028
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