I've got a small oil leak I'm trying to pin down. I cleaned it up and put diapers everywhere. It's been driven less than 400 miles since the cleanup (thanks, COVID) so I'm not sure if there's any visible difference, but I need to remove the panels and see what's going on. I want to pinpoint the...
This is generally correct. The USA DOT regulations are ridiculously outdated, and in general ECE rated lamps have superior lighting.
This was especially true through roughly the 1990's, after that either the DOT regs changed slightly, and/or manufacturers found ways around the DOT regs (to...
+1. I'm not a fan of offshore copies unless the OE/OEM items are NLA (no longer available) and there's no other choice.
YES!! ^^^
In technical terms, lights are either for right-hand-traffic (RHT, USA/Canada/Europe/etc) or for LHT (UK, Japan, Australia, etc).
Since it's possible to have a...
I didn't even know an aftermarket pipe was available. Reviews on Amazon are mixed. Let us know how it works long term...
https://www.amazon.com/ZM-Thermostat-Outlet-2010-2013-LR018275/dp/B07T23DCDV/
Just confirming... you are checking for fault codes with a GAP IID tool, correct? Or with a generic OBD-2 code reader?
No codes at all sounds odd. Wild guessing I'd wonder about the crank position sensor, which on some other makes (non-LR) can cause the engine to die after reaching full temp...
THANK YOU! This is correct: ^^^
IME, the level indicator is as useless as the 2 brake pad wear sensors for 8 brake pads. And unless you have performed the calibration procedure as described in the FSM after changing the oil, you CAN NOT trust that the level indicator is accurate. Who knows what...
IIRC, there is only 1 sensor for each LR4 axle, which is borderline useless. This assumes all FOUR pads on that axle wear at the same rate. If you drive until the dash warning light comes on, it may or may not be too late. Thanks a lot, bean counters. Best to check the pads visually at least...
That diagram is not a factory diagram, it's from an aftermarket part catalog used by dealers. It can be trusted about as much as any news story you read on the internet. To find out how the emission system works you need to look in the factory service manual, and/or factory part catalog...
It finally happened. My battery died, without warning. Although we are not driving much with COVID (parked for weeks or months at a time, on a battery maintainer)... the truck ran flawlessly a few weeks ago in April, but this morning the starter couldn't turn over the V8 engine. The cluster went...
Tip for others working on the cooling system... water pump, xover pipes, etc: Use a vacuum filler when done (no concerns about air pockets), AND also pressure-test the system to ~15psi when full. The pressure test may have caught this problem with a loose hose/clamp.
Side note: Anyone know...
I believe standard DOT4 and DOT4-LV are both glycol ether and borate esters based. I believe the LV version has a minimum 10°C higher wet boil point (155C std, 165C LV) while the dry boil point is minimum 20C higher (230C std, 250C LV). Note those are DOT minimum requirements and many...
I think I got my V8 service manual from a link posted on this forum, it's a ~270MB file to download. No cost, IIRC. However I'm not sure if an equivalent free-download option is available for the SCV6. If anyone knows of one, I'd like to add that to my collection. :)
For the parts catalog...
Prestone wants to sell antifreeze and is not responsible for your engine failure. If you don't have a local LR dealer, or their price is crazy, you can buy online and have it delivered. FCP has it for $27/gallon, free shipping for 2 gallons (over $49)...
Thanks for confirming! I have a similar unit to the Motive and it works great on my other European cars. I've been wondering if any special procedures were needed on the LR4 (some newer vehicles require these), or if it was a simple pressure bleed. Guess I need to buy some of that watery...
See attached PDF. I would ONLY attempt this if you have a vacuum coolant fill tool. I've read too many horror stories about bleeding air pockets; the vacuum tool eliminates this problem. Worth the cost and should be far less than whatever the dealer charges. However, I would buy the antifreeze...
If you already replaced the timing chain components, you shouldn't have to worry about that problem reoccurring, if your oil change intervals (and oil choice) are correct.
If you are nervous, schedule the coolant crossover pipe (and possibly water pump) replacement every X miles, along with...
Fluid spec is "SHELL DONAX YB DOT4 ESL FLUID", which is not standard DOT4. I would not use DOT4, although it may work ok, but that's just me.
AFAICT that spec is for a low-viscosity DOT4 fluid. What appears to be a reasonable explanation is at this thread.
"I looked up the specs for this ESL...
Isn't the 25Nm torque spec stamped on the cap? I also use the torque wench because (1) yup, I'm anal and (b), I have one taking up space in the toolbox already.
Definitely worth having a couple different-range torque wrenches for general automotive use, although I'd consider shelling out for...
Sure, it is LTB00305NAS3. See attached PDF. My 2010 felt exactly as this describes, during medium to hard acceleration, between 2400-2800rpm. Installing the damper cured it 95%. Why JLR didn't have this installed as standard equipment, I don't understand...
Good to hear it's back in service. If the vibration is only around 3000rpm while accelerating, there is a TSB with a fix, adding a damper to the transfer case. If it's 3500rpm to redline, I'd wild guess engine mounts...?
If it makes you feel any better, I did plugs at ~120k and I'm pretty sure they were original. Amazingly, they looked fine and there was absolutely zero difference with new ones installed. Be careful if buying aftermarket, there are a lot of counterfeit NGK plugs on the market, buy from a...
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