I think I paid ~$600 for mine. Install isn't too hard. Obviously the dealer overcharges as usual...
I kept my old ones and plan to replace the bushings on them so I'm ready for the next 50K miles.
Hmm...30K on the OEM set is good. Perhaps buy the OEM set from Atlantic British. Still cheaper than dealer and you know what you're getting. Plus the OEM pads seem to kick up much less brake dust then EBC.
From my experience the higher end EBC rotors worked well and I prefer the orange pads...
Wow, that's really weird. How do you go through the pads and rotors in 12K miles?!? I did more than double that mileage and both (pads and rotors) were still fine. Either you got a bad batch, something was wrong or you drive extremely aggressively and overuse your brakes.
How many miles did...
That really depends on whether you offroad certain terrain/conditions where you need to increase your momentum to the point of potentially damaging your truck. A front locker will in some cases walk up obstacles where you may have needed a bit more momentum. I would say for 97% of terrain that...
Sorry, I never heard of pads warping. I've heard of rotors being "warped" meaning uneven wear usually caused by the pads or over torqued wheels on the hub. Did you do the work yourself or have someone install and replace the pads you're referring to?
I was under the impression that the colors referred to the pad composition not rotors but I could be wrong.
For the LR4 the greens are the least expensive pads at around $65. The yellow are about double and the orange heavy duty are even more expensive. I had the yellow last time and they were...
From what I read online it seems the OEM pads and rotors are not very durable. Lots of people change pads and rotors with under 20K miles. Some are able to get into the 30K's but based on cost and durability you can save a lot of money and get the green pads or step up to yellow or orange. My...
Strange, I originally found them on JC Whitney. Odd that EBC doesn't even list LR on their shop website. Not sure what to make of that.
The parts I have went in fine and are working great. They do produce more dust then the yellow I had.
I do most of my own service and depending on what issue or upgrade I plan on doing, I will either go to an independent shop or a dealer (rarely).
I find the maintenance on these trucks is something that I can do, easily and quickly and I learn something, so no need for the excessive charges...
Are you kidding? You know how many LR3 and LR4 lower control arms have been changed under warranty?
There are threads about people complaining. Luckily for most it happens while there's still a warranty on the truck.
Symptoms include a clunk when hitting a pothole and a little play and...
I came from a Mercedes G500 previously. My experience with the LR4 has been great. It's been super reliable. The only things I've done are basic maintenance and replacement of components that wear out.
These trucks are designed for easy service for the basic items. So I do MOST of the basic...
Just want to add something since this doesn't get enough airplay in my mind. I finally got around to changing out the front brake pad sensor. I reused it up until now and the heat let the sensor crack when I jiggled it. Changing out the sensor took me as long as doing the brakes themselves. it...
Well, at 60K miles I have a bit of play in the lower control arms. I decided to just buy the entire control arms for $600 and then rebuild my original with new bushings since this seems like a regular maintenance item.
Question - Is the swap a pretty simple thing? It looks like it...I'm...
In our limited capacity to provide advice on something we can't see or test on our own, I would be vigilant in making sure as you continue to use the truck that you do not damage the engine by keeping a very close eye on your temp gauge and/or any strange noises.
With that said, it sounds like...
So lets be specific here.
Your engine is off, you opened the hood, took the engine cover off, and tried to spin the fan with your hand and it won't move. So no free movement in the fan...
If that is true, then yes your fan clutch is toast and you need to replace.
Besides the error code, what other symptom are you seeing?
Fan running constantly? Fan runs too fast?
Fan doesn't run at all?
Is the fan spinning freely when the engine is off?
Probably another set of the coopers. They seem to be a good compromise for me.
I just picked up a hard case RTT, which you might be interested in checking out. (You have everything else) :)
Well, I installed the pads. The EBC rotors had barely any wear on them. Noticeably better than the OEM rotors of approximately the same mileage.
The orange dropped right in, no issues. First impression seems that the pads are grippier than the yellow EBC but time will tell.
Just an observation to share.
I was exploring/offroading the Coyote Flats (California Sierras) area this weekend. Took the Bishop side route up and down on the way out. I used HDC on the way down about 1/2 way and received an warning that HDC was no longer available after about 25 to 30 minutes...
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