Richmond VA area.
David Word Automotive http://www.davidwordautomotive.com/
Tensioners and guides. No chains, $3500 two days in shop.
Very pleased with outcome.
Just had mine done. I am a good home mechanic who isn't put off by much. I looked at the specialty tools, amount of work, possibility of not getting it right and paid a shop to do it.
19 hours. About $3500 bucks total.
Nice and quiet. Really stupid design flaws.
It is a design flaw and should be recalled.
Between the stupid "lets make this steel push on this aluminum" and the pistons that fail and retract instead of extending and ratcheting out and STAYING extended.
And even if you haven't had it happen it has affected you. Values are down because...
Most manuals spec pin to pin length on a chain so you can measure stretch. Anyone know if LR specs a number for timing chains?
Mine only had guides and tensioners done.
Very much so. It still has a mechanical sound (maybe HPFP?) to it but no longer sloppy.
Ratchets on both tensioners completely shot. Compressed by finger pressure immediately. Holes machined in back of tensioner blades.
Just got mine back. No longer sounds like a diesel! Sounds great actually.
Attached are photos of the wear spots on the back of the arms. Those holes are deep...maybe an eighth of an inch. The part would have been flush originally.
All that aluminum is either in the pan or the filter...
I bought a 2011 LR4 HSE Lux+ the same way. Priced well under market.
Local shop that has experience is doing them right now. $3200. Still under NADA market value. Wonderful truck in every way possible....and now hopefully it will be quiet and stop stressing me out.
You can...
Went to our local LR dealer to buy oil. Nope...now we only sell it by the drum or in an oil change. Went down the road to the Jag dealer. Sure we do.....$3 less per quart and filter about 2/3 the price.
Mine leaked slowly....you could smell it if you walked by front of truck or popped hood. It failed EXACTLY like your did and both stubs of spigots were in engine. It is a design flaw to be sure.
Common enough that it is well known. Happens to Jags too. Don't delay since if it fails catastrophically it will lead to an overheat if you run it. Could also be other sources as well....leaky water-pump, other cracked brittle plastic parts. But my first spot to look would be here.
Crossover pipe is cracked. Under manifold. Seeps at first. Smells like coolant when you pop hood. Can turn into a BIG leak.
Work is not hard at all to R&R. Got to remove manifold, some electrical connections, coolant lines, fill and bleed.
Mine has the spigots that go into the engine...
Yeah that would be a "Where do I sign?" price for me... Take some pictures of the guide wear too as well as the back where the tensioner is said to wear into the aluminum.
Can't believe they designed a steel on aluminum design.....
The rain sensor cover just snaps off like a claim shell if I remember correctly and you can see if it is attached correctly under the cover.
You can buy the pad clean it up and replace.
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