Should I buy an extended Warranty?

[Mike Sutton]

Hello, I have a 2013 Range Rover Sport; not Supercharged.

I bought it with 45,000 miles and bought an after market warranty for $2,600 (5 year 50,000 mile) which paid for itself. By the way... I have 91,000 miles on the car and have the following things go bad so far (covered under warranty 2 water pumps, suspension air compressor and 2 lower control arm bushings.

Now I am at 91,000 miles without a warranty and I can buy one for $7,900 for 5 years 48,0000 miles. By the way... one dealer was $15,000 for same warranty after telling them it was too high they came down to $13,000, in fact, the one mentioned above was originally quoted at $9,500 and I got them down to $7,900. FYI... there can be a steep markup on these warranties.

I have tried to determine what might go bad and the associated price by scouring the internet to determine cost of predictable problems on this car from 90,000 miles to 150,000 miles, to see if I should buy this expensive warranty?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thank you in advance!

 

[Cthehentz]

These are very expensive to keep and maintaine let alone cover the cost of failures. To be honest you should have 5k-10k in the bank to cover repairs. My current warranty does not cover catalytic converters so that cost me $2200 out of my pocket.

 

[Troy A]

Hello, I have a 2013 Range Rover Sport; not Supercharged.

I bought it with 45,000 miles and bought an after market warranty for $2,600 (5 year 50,000 mile) which paid for itself. By the way... I have 91,000 miles on the car and have the following things go bad so far (covered under warranty 2 water pumps, suspension air compressor and 2 lower control arm bushings.

Now I am at 91,000 miles without a warranty and I can buy one for $7,900 for 5 years 48,0000 miles. By the way... one dealer was $15,000 for same warranty after telling them it was too high they came down to $13,000, in fact, the one mentioned above was originally quoted at $9,500 and I got them down to $7,900. FYI... there can be a steep markup on these warranties.

I have tried to determine what might go bad and the associated price by scouring the internet to determine cost of predictable problems on this car from 90,000 miles to 150,000 miles, to see if I should buy this expensive warranty?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thank you in advance!

I had to make a similar call on my 2013 LR4 with 72,000 miles. The dealer said the retail price on the extended warranty was $15K (LOL), and they could "give me a great price at $7K (also LOL.). To be honest I actually DID sign that but then I cancelled it and took $5K and just spent it pre-emptively. I'd rather spend pre-emptively to avoid issues vs. waiting for things to fail, hoping that the warranty covers it and/or fight with the underwriter about it.


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[Mike Sutton]

These are very expensive to keep and maintaine let alone cover the cost of failures. To be honest you should have 5k-10k in the bank to cover repairs. My current warranty does not cover catalytic converters so that cost me $2200 out of my pocket.

Wow good know about, that's steep.

 

[Mike Sutton]

I had to make a similar call on my 2013 LR4 with 72,000 miles. The dealer said the retail price on the extended warranty was $15K (LOL), and they could "give me a great price at $7K (also LOL.). To be honest I actually DID sign that but then I cancelled it and took $5K and just spent it pre-emptively. I'd rather spend pre-emptively to avoid issues vs. waiting for things to fail, hoping that the warranty covers it and/or fight with the underwriter about it.


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Interesting, what were the pre-emptive things that you fixed?
From my research, most on this forum were: Lower Control arm bushings, water pump, suspension air compressor, fuel pump and unspecified gaskets. I have already done all but the fuel pump and gaskets. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Troy A]

Interesting, what were the pre-emptive things that you fixed?
From my research, most on this forum were: Lower Control arm bushings, water pump, suspension air compressor, fuel pump and unspecified gaskets. I have already done all but the fuel pump and gaskets. Thanks for your reply.

Coolant cross overs and full overhaul of all fluids. There are a million posts on that problem


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[Mike Sutton]

Coolant cross overs and full overhaul of all fluids. There are a million posts on that problem


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Oh wow, did not see "Coolant Crossover" is it expensive?

 

[Troy A]

Oh wow, did not see "Coolant Crossover" is it expensive?

Here are two of the many, many threads. Just use the search function and you'll find them.

Crossover Pipe Bursted on V8
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...ted-on-V8.42030/&share_type=t&link_source=app

2016 LR4 Coolant Crossover, Water Pump, Thermostat Replacement
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...placement.42027/&share_type=t&link_source=app



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[BeemerNut]

These are very expensive to keep and maintaine let alone cover the cost of failures. To be honest you should have 5k-10k in the bank to cover repairs. My current warranty does not cover catalytic converters so that cost me $2200 out of my pocket.

Had to ask, how many Cats did you replace costing you $2,200 and were they replaced by a LR dealership or by a local muffler shop?

Replacement due to a "spoiled" Cat due to engine misfiring, coolant or oil leakage into the exhaust system or mechanical off road impact damage to Cat?.....~~=o&o>......

 

[Brad K]

First, you seem like a great negotiator getting The dealership to come down 50%. I should have you negotiate my next car lease!

At 90k you are bound to have a few major fixes over the next 4 years so maybe it is 50/50. If you are on top of the maintanence like the timing tensioner maybe you keep that number to <$5k I say If you do it, then get everything even slightly problematic fixed. But otherwise it might be fun to “roll the dice” and gamble on spending less than $7500. I figure once I go over $3k/year out of pocket I consider a new car.

My latest thought: keep my 2011 LR4 for ever and get a used Tesla for every day —around town — then both cars take less of a beating.