2005 LR3 Transmission Fault

[awright0331]

Any resolution to your problem?? I have a 2006 LR3 with $95k miles and have had very similar issues regarding the Transmission Fault and "slow" acceleration. In addition, I have had the following other error codes pop up intermittently: fuel cap loose or missing, check engine light, low coolant level, low washer fluid, bonnet open... I have had it to the dealer numerous times and paid thousands of dollars in repair bills, only to have the same problems recurr. I have recently replaced the battery and the brake light switch, but the problem is persisting....there is a recurring evap code and another that has something to do with the 5th gear. The dealership told me a year ago that I needed a new transmission but I took it to a transmission shop who said it was fine. ANY help is appreciated! I am considering ordering a new fuel cap? Also, I did replace a couple of brake lights in the last year, not sure if they were generic or not...

 

[bbyer]

Ford license built ZF

The link below is to a number of files related to our ZF 6HP26 tranny. Of particular interest is the file related to the Ford 6R60, a license built version of our ZF.

What I am saying is that I am always cautious when someone identifies the tranny as being the source of a problem with the 3. In the case mentioned, as per previous posts, it just may be the tranny, but the systems are so interrelated that a dumb dual contact brake light switch or a burned out tail light bulb can foul up the operation of the tranny.

Often shown on the message display is usually Cruise Control Not Available as the braking systems tie to the anti lock to the downhill to the gear selector and a problem in one can suggest a problem elsewhere.

I mention Ford, as back in 2005, the ZF we have was rare, but now, the Ford license built version is everywhere including in the Raptor. If you want to replace the plastic oil pan, go to Ford and get the Raptor deep metal one.

As such, maintenance knowledge related to the ZF is starting to be available and the LR/Mercedes/Audie/BMW dealer response of get a new tranny is not the only option any longer.

Any yes, replacing the fuel cap and or this vapor leak thing are a more probably the solution than replacing the tranny.

Land Rover got their initial education back in late 2005 when they started replacing trannys on warranty and then with the problem still persisting, later finding an owner had replaced a factory tail light bulb with an off shore sourced bulb.

That is why dealers offer free bulb replacement under warrenty and do not call bulbs wear items - non genuine owner installed bulbs have cost manufacturers too much warrenty money over time - and then LR wanted the owners to pay up for the unnecessary tranny - real fun then.

http://www.bit.ly/1ecVJ3m

 

[tlt]

I would be curious on the raptor pan Bbyer. Part numbers, capacity in comparison to the factory ZF Metal vs the Plastic one, and so on.

I do have the factory ZF Metal Pan fitted, but would be happy to get back to the original transmission capacity. I believe you lose a quart between the Plastic and Metal ZF Pan.

I know these transmissions do have some problems though, don't be always fooled to think nothing can go wrong. Our guys overseas have made a business out of re-manufacturing LR drive train parts for all models. The diffs being the most common item certainly, but transfer cases and gearboxes do have issues from time to time. I wouldn't claim to be an expert on them, but I am learning.

Certainly I would agree with bbyer 100% to follow through on all the basic stuff, and in particular strange things with the wiring design can be very misleading, with simple things like bulbs, brake light switches and gas caps scaring the crap out of unsuspecting owners needlessly. I find it interesting that a Lexus can tell you when a bulb is out, an LR3 or D3 will tell you everything has failed pull over, get your stuff out of it and let it die when a bulb is out.

Who says the British don't have a sense of humor.

 

[bbyer]

Raptor pan is deeper and no drain plug.

I do not know the Ford part number but I did a Goggle re the Raptor and came up with a bunch of upgrade pans for the 6R80 so I presume that equates to the 6HP28 that is on the 4's.

Regardless, the ZF polyamide oilpan part number, 0501 215 789 is the same for the Ford Australia, Ford USA, Jaguar and Range Rover for the 6HP26/26X or 28/28X and metal pan # is 1068 203 042.

The stock Ford Raptor pan is deeper than our plastic pan on the ZF metal replacement but does not have a oil drain. Why a drain plug is becoming the first cost cutting item is just beyond me.

Just a couple of weeks ago, I had my local tranny shop drain the oil and install a new plastic ZF pan; last done 50 thousand miles ago.

The shop here just plain refuses to install a metal pan as he regards the ZF as cold temperature fussy. Rather than cooling, I guess up here, the concern is winter and the oil remaining closer to grease than a fluid. As such, I continue to install the plastic pan. Last time, it was 800 dollars, 3 years later, a thousand - progress.

As to the ZF metal pan holding less oil, I guess that is possible but that surprises me. I could understand that the seperate oil filter as opposed to the integral filter making it appear the oil quantity is different, but less would surprise me. Also I cannot really find in any ZF literature just how much oil a ZF tranny is supposed to require. There is some factory dry fill data, but since no one can measure how much is hanging inside all the channels after a drain, it seems ZF is shy about saying how much new oil is needed - instead they talk temperature.

I do not seem to recall the Ozzies complaining about less oil but for the most part, they install a Ford pan off one of their locally produced Ford 4x4 SUV/station wagons.

Actually this time my tranny guy was smarter - he remembered how time consuming the job was and got back a little from last time.

The link below is kind of a reality check - maybe our 3's are not so bad. If you dig more into the Raptor forums, there seems to be a lot of discussion re the Ford tranny recalls.

http://www.edmunds.com/ford/f-150/2...ord-f-150-svt-raptor-transmission-update.html

 

[tlt]

According to the fellow from The CTSC there was about a quart difference. Not a deal killer, but a difference nonetheless.

I've found my cold weather transmission performance better. Now, mind you bbyer, I consider cold weather these days, anything below say 50F.. haha Assuming you are willing to let the engine warm up before taking off, I don't see what difference it makes. The oil is as cold or warm as the oil is going to be, pan or no pan.

Thanks for all the detailed information, always entertaining.

 

[bbyer]

freezes up while you drive

Yeah, cold is a bit different up here - we put a - minus in front of your number.

Here, in the winter on a cold day, once a vehicle warms up, it is usually OK as long as we do not drive it at speed. Here on cold days, say -35F and lower, driving on the highways is pretty easy as the only vehicles you meet are Made in USA, Toyota trucks, or Land Rover; everything else is pretty much grounded.

It is the wind chill that can turn what should be hot oil back into grease. A plastic pan, fins or otherwise, does not radiate heat to the same degree as a metal pan. In our three, the skid plate insulates the pan from much of the wind so cooling may not be a problem but for an unprotected pan, it could be. My tranny guy, when he works on it kind of ignores the effect of the skid plate except when he is doing up the bill.

The same thinking can apply to the engine oil pan as well and that is why in the past, highway tractors used to wrap a canvas cover from the top of the rad to down under the bumper and to back behind the engine. Now they have hydraulic radiator shutters and the engines are covered on the bottom - the covers not being considered skid plates, but to improves the "aerodynamics" and hence fuel economy.

That is interesting that the metal pan means less oil; less oil means less cooling as a rule - I wonder? The thing is the bottom of the radiator is supposed to where the cooling happens but there is some sort of thermostatic valve for that I think. Here, for the most part, our problem is not tranny overheat, but too little heat - except that the guys with the pickups tow fifth wheels and the like to Arizona in the late fall so our pickups have to beable to handle the extremes.

That is why our used pickups are so popular in Montana and the Dakotas - standard duty here is heavy duty in the States. There is not much tint in the glass but both the air conditioner and the heater are good.

We need good air conditioners as anything over +60F and we have the AC set near full cold.